Improving the finish of a garment
Both in regard
to appearance and functional performance, it is more important than ever to
improve the finish of a garment in order to appeal to the modern consumer.
Improvement in functional performance of a garment through specialty finishing
has led to the development of up-market and niche products in recent times .
Developments have taken place in easy care, softening, water repellent,
soil-release and stain-release, flame retardant, anti-microbial and breathable
finishes.
Most of these finishes are given at the
fabrics processing stage itself. Technology for vapor-phase treatment which
allows finishing to be carried out at the garment stage is still under
development. The only functional finish which has reached some level of
satisfactory application and performance is the "wrinkle free" finish.
The wrinkle free finish ( also known
as "Easy Care", Durable Press", "Wrinkle-Resistant", "Wash and Wear",
"No-Iron" etc. ) is obtained by cross-linking cotton. It was way back in the
1920's when the research scientists at Total started work on making cotton as
wrinkle-resistant as silk. For the next 35 years research in this field was
carried out in laboratories all over the world. In 1961, the Koret Company
come up with the Koretron process. The process used then is known today as the
post-cure procedure to introduce permanent creases in cotton garments. Initial
consumer response was lukewarm. The research continued by the 1980's
DMDHEU(N,N,11,3) was perfected and put into use. Unfortunately, the chemistry
of this compound liberates formaldehyde over 2,000 parts per million. The
carcinogenic and dermatological effects of formaldehyde led to a declining
interest in wrinkle resistant finishes.
The
finishing of garments to achieve permanent press properties was first
presented at the 1987 International AATCC conference in Charlotte, NC, USA.
Vapour phase finishing of cotton garments with gaseous formaldehyde and DMDHEU
immersion finishing were the two options that were discussed. At least one
garment manufacturer had begun immersion finishing of cotton garments at this
time. The trend was-established by the mid 1990's Today there is widespread
consumer interest in the latest version of permanent press, popularly known as
"wrinkle-free".
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