Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.

Characteristics : Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil or a lawn.

Uses : Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.

 Drill

Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.

Characteristics : Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the grey but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name.

Uses : Uniforms, work cloths, slip covers, sportwear, and many industrial uses.

  Duck

Fibre : Cotton. Originally made in linen.

Weave : Plain, but also crosswise rib.

Characteristics : Also called canvas. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. It is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weights are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed , printed or painted. Washable, many are water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights.

Uses : Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportwear, tents, and many industrial uses.

Flannelette

Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Plain and twill.

Characteristics : A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured stripes.

Uses : Infants and childrens wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.

  Gabardine

Fibre : Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.

Weave : Steep twill (63 degrees).

Characteristics : Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly.

Uses : Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.

  Gingham

Fibre : Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.

Weave : Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped".

Characteristics : Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless preshrunk. Has a soft, dull lusture surface. Wrinkels unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count.

Uses : Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.

  Homespun

Fibre : Cotton or wool

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Coarse, rugged yarn is used. Originally an un dyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the world over. Has substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made - the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.

Uses : Coats, suits, seperates and sportswear.

  Hopsacking

Fibre : Cotton or wool, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute.

Weave : Basket.

Characteristics : Made with coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable, Often quite bulky but various weights.

Uses : Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine used for dresses.

  Jersey

Fibre : Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.

Weave : Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).

Characteristics : Right side has lenghtwise ribs (wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.

Uses : Dress goods, sportswear, suits, underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.

  Doubleknit

Fibre : Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics

Weave : Circular or flat-needle bar type

Characteristics : A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

  Lawn

Fibre : Cotton,

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight, sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than voile but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns, silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight lustre it is called nainsook.

Uses : Underwear, dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.

  Madras

Fibre : Cotton - some in rayon and silk.

Weave : Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs.

Characteristics : Originated in Madras, India and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain coloured background with stripes, plaid, checks or designs on it. Has a high thread count and fine. Made with combed or carded yarns depending on the quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and duarable. Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, colour changes take place.

Uses : Men's and women's sportwear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.

  Monk's Cloth

Fibre : Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.

Weave : 4x4 basket weave.

Characteristics : Quite heavy, due to construction it is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.

Uses : Draperies, all types of upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.

 Nainsook

Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Produced in the finishing processes from the same grey goods as used for batiste, cambric, lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight lustre in the better qualities (mercerization). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colours and some printed.

Uses : tucked or embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.

  Organdy

Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.

Characteristics : Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendering which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.

Uses : Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers, dolls cloths, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.

  Oxford

Fibre : Cotton - Some in rayon.

Weave : Plain variations - usually basket 2x1.

Characteristics : Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softy - spun bulky filling which gives it a basket - weave look. Better qualities are mercerized rather heavy. Usually is all white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities-Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale.

Uses : Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts, dresses, and sportswear.

  Percale

Fibre : Cotton

Weave: Plain

Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and washes very well.Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed. Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-100. First made by Wamustta Mills.

Uses: Dresses, women's and children's sportswear, aprons, and sheets.

  Pique

Fibre: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.

Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lenghtwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various prices. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. The small figured motifs are called cloque. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares). honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded areas first.

Uses : Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, particularly coats, and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, playclothes, and evening gowns.

 Plisse

Fibre : Cotton, rayon, and others.

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Could be made from any fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.

Uses : Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads, and bassinettes. Often it is called wrinkle crepe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).

  Point d'esprit

Fibre : Cotton - some in silk.

Weave : Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh.

Characteristics : First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes. Has white or coloured dots individually spaced or in groups.

Uses : Curtains, bassinettes, evening gowns

 Poplin

Fibre : Cotton, wool, and other textile fibres.

Weave : Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch.

Characteristics : Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high lustre. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.

Uses : Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.

 Sailcloth

Fibre : Cotton, linen, nylon.

Weave : Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.

Characteristics : A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the count is around 148x60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is much lighter weight than used for sails.

Uses : Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for men, women, and children.

 Sateen

Fibre : Cotton, some also made in rayon.

Weave : Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave.

Characteristics : Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Carded or combed yarns are used. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but this disappears with washing and is not considered genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams.

Uses : Dresses, sportswear, blouses, robes, pyjamas, linings for draperies, bedspreads, slip covers.

 Seersucker

Fibre : Cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Plain, slack tension weave.

Characteristics : Term derived from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth, literally "milk and sugar". Crepe-stripe effect. Coloured stripes are often used. Dull surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. the woven crinkle is produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good service and wear. May be laundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes in a check effect.

Uses : Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers.

 Shantung

Fibre : Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Plain.

Characteristics : It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed.

Uses : Dresses, suits, and coats.

 Terry cloth

Fibre : Cotton and some linen.

Weave : Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.

Characteristics : Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides. Formed with an extra warp yarn. long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent, and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish towelling."

Uses : Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers, and draperies.

 Tiking

Fibre : Cotton

Weave : Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby.

Characteristics : Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong, smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and coloured stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.

Uses : Pillow covers, mattress coverings, upholstering and some sportswear. `Bohemian ticking'' has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is feather proof. Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow coloured striped on a white background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.

Chiffon (French for "rag")

Fibre : Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta.

Uses : After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.

  China Silk

Fibre : Silk.

Weave : Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric.

Uses : Mostly for linings and underlinings, and could be used for blouses.

Crepe

See wool for general notes. They all have a pebbled, rough feel and appearance. Yarns have a high twist in the filling or the warp or both. Most crepes launder well with care.

Crepe-back satin, satin-back crepe, crepe-satin, or satin-crepe.

Satin weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back obtained with twisted crepe yarns in the filling - 2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by usually both sides, in different parts. e.g. the crepe side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.

Uses : Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5 wear.

Crepe de Chine

Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.

Crepon

Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengtwise direction. Mostly used for prints.

Uses : Dresses and ensembles.

Georgette Crepe

Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harser, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de chine.

Uses : After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingeries, scarves, etc. Same uses as crepe de chine.

Flat Crepe

Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well.

Uses : Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingeries and linings.

Moss Crepe

Mossy Creper or Sand Crepe (trade mark). Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.

Doupion, Douppioni

Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diametre in places.
Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

Faconne

Fibre : Silk or rayon.

Weave : Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.

Characteristics : Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer than the designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effectvie when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well.

Uses : Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.

Faille

Fibre : Silk, rayon.

Weave : Crosswise rib.

Characteristics : Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than gros grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.

Uses : Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.

Foulard

Fibre : Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.

Weave : Twill, 2 up 2 down.

Characteristics : Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India.

Uses : Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade.

Frise

Fibre : Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.

Weave : Pile (looped).

Characteristics : Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.

Uses : Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen overcoating fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more".

Glove Silk

Fibre : Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot.

Characteristics : Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.

Uses : Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).

Habutai

Fibre : Silk.

Weave : Plain.

Characteristics : Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" )1 momme = 3.75 g.). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk.

Uses : Dresses, coats, shirting, lamp shades, lingerie, curtains.

Honan

Fibre : Silk, also from man-made synthetics.

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : The best grade of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China. The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly.

Uses : Dresses, ensembles, blouses, lingerie.

Illusion

Fibre : Silk

Weave : Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.

Characteristics : A very fine, all-silk tulle which orignated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.

Uses : Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.

Lame

French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver".

Fibre : Silk or any textile fibre in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lame is also a trade mark for metallic yarns.

Weave : Usually a figured weave but could be any.

Characteristics : Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the French for "worked with gold and silver wire."

Uses : Principally for evening wear.

Marquisette

Fibre : Silk, cotton, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Gauze or lino.

Characteristics : Very lightweight, open, sheer, mesh fabric. Wears very well and launders very well. Comes in white, solid colours and novelty effect. Sometimes with a swivel dot or clip spot (marquisette).

Uses : Window curtains, dressy dress wear, such as bridal parties or after 5 wear.

Matelasse

French for "cushioned or padded."

Fibre : Figured made on jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave.

Characteristics : The pattern stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect to the goods. Crepe yarn in double weave shrinks during finishing causing a blistering effect in upholstery, coarse yarns cause blistering. Comes in colours, novelty effects, and some with metallic yarns. Gives good wear and drapes well. If washable, it must be laundered with care. It is very attractive and suits quite plain styles.

Uses : Some cotton matelasse used for bedspreads, dresses, suits, ensembles.

Mousseline de Soie

Fibre : Silk

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : It is silk muslin, sheer, open, and lightweight. It is something like chiffon but with a crisp finish produced by sizing. It is does not wear well and it does not launder.

Uses : Evening wear, and bridal wear. Trimmings. Also used in millinery as a backing.

Moire

Fibre : Silk, rayon, cotton.

Weave : Plain or crosswise rib

Characteristics : Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permenent, except on acetate rayon.

Uses : After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads.

Net

Fibre : Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.

Weave : Knotted, made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves

Characteristics : A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.

Uses : It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.

Ninnon

Fibre : Rayon, Synthetics.

Weave : Plain, open mesh.

Characteristics : A sheer, fairly crisp fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like voile, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs. Washes well, particularly in the synthetics.

Uses : Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening or bridal wear.

Organza

Fibre : Silk, rayon.

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.

Uses : All types of after 5 dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery, and underlinings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.

Ottoman

Fabric : Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics.

Weave : Crosswise rib.

Characteristics : Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and connot be gathered or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too tightly.

Uses : Evening wrapes. formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5 wear.

  Pongee

Fibre : Silk, cotton, rayon.

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : Originally from China and originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in colour. Woven "in the gum." Some is dyed, but color is not quite uniform. Some printed. Warp is finer and more even than filling. Nubs or irregular cross ribs produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw silk."

Uses : Dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It is used to be a great deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.

Rajah (trade name)

Fibre : Silk, rayon.

Weave : Plain - warp yarn is 4 thread organzine - filling is heavier.

Characteristics : Made from a tussah silk or certain silk wastes. It belongs to the pongee family of silks. Made from irregular yarns, so has slubs and irregularities but thicker than shantung. It is rather compact and strong. Has a pebble-like feel and apperance. Comes in all colours as well as natural ecru shades, but often warp and filling are different colours (irridescent effect).

Satin

Fibre : Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Satin.

Characteristics : Originated in China (Zaytoun, China - now Canton - a port from which satins were exported during the Middle Ages). Became known in Europe during the XIIth and XIIIth Centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the XIVth Century. It became a favourite of all court life because of its exquisite qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The lustre is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colours, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.

Uses : Slips, after 5 dresses, coats, capes, and jackets, lining fabrics, millinery, drapes, covers, and pillows, trimmings, etc.

Satin-back Crepe

A reversible cloth with satin on one side and crepe on the other.

Satin-back

Satin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin on the other.

Double-face Satin

Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

Duchess

An 8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36'' wide. Characterized by grainey twill on back.

Satin Faconne

Jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained. Jacquard figure on a satin ground.

Slipper Satin

Strong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. it is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the material comes coloured, black or white, or richly brocaded effects - Shiniest satin.

Peau de Soie

Soft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It has a dull lustre. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in the cloth which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one side only. Name means "skin of silk''. Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a delustered satin. it doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as "delustered satin".

Shantung

Fibre : Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics.

Weave : Plain

Characteristics : It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colours and also printed.

Uses : Dresses, suits, and coats.

Sharkskin

Fibre : Rayon (acetate), synthetics, particularly Arnel. Worsted.

Weave : Plain or twill (2 up 2 down)

Characteristics : Has a heavy, semi-crisp texture. It is very smooth and slippery. Has a flat look. It is mostly made in white but some also comes coloured. It wears well and launders well particularly in Arnel. Has a tendency to turn yellow with age, but the Arnel remains pure white.

Uses : All kinds of summer wear. Dresses, suits, and coats, Used extensively for sportswear, for men, women and children.

   Sheer

Fibre : Any fibre.

Weave : Mostly plain but could be various weaves.

Characteristics : Any very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crepe). Usually has an open weave. They mostly feel cool.

Triple Sheers

Heavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which wears, drapes, and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc.

  Spun Rayon

Fibre : Rayon.

Weave : Plain.

Characteristics : Simulated cotton or wool made with staple fibers in a continous strand to give this effect. Wears well and is washable. Made in different weights. Comes in plain colours and prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface. Blends well with cotton.

Uses : Dresses, suits, sportswear, men's shirts

Surah

Fibre : Silk, rayon, and synthetics.

Weave : Twill (2 up and 2 down).

Characteristics : soft and flexible. Lightweight and lustrous. Has a decided twill on the fabric. Wrinkles fairly easily. Underlining helps to prevent this, as well as to prevent slipping at the seams. Some have a tendency to water spot. Very similar to "foulard", but heavier.

Uses : Dresses, suits, ensembles, dresses and coats, cravats, ties, scarves, blouses, jacket and coat linings.

Taffeta

Fibre : Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Usually plain with a fine cross rib.

Characteristics : A cloth supposed to have originated in iran (Persia) and was called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain colours, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods will split or crack.

Uses : All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips, ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric.

Faille Taffeta

Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

Paper Taffeta

Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.

Shot Taffeta

Usually plain weave, woven with one colour in the warp and another colour in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. If fabric is moved in the light this colour changes. Silk version of chambray.

Tissue Taffeta

Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.

Warp-print Taffeta

Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.

Tricot

Fibre : Silk, rayon, synthetics.

Weave : Knit, warp knitted. Vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back.

Characteristics : Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant).

Uses : Underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.

Tulle

Fibre : Silk, rayon, cotton.

Weave : Guaze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine.

Characteristics : derived name from Tulle, France. First made by Machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is difficult to launder. Comes in white and colours, and is very cool, dressy, and delicate.

Uses : It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.

Tussah

Fibre : Silk.

Weave : Usually plain but also in twill.

Fibre : True alpaca is a hair fibre from the Alpaca animal, a mamber of the IIama family of the south American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.

Weave : Various weaves, knits, and weights.

Characteristics : Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much lustre and aresembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. it is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or initated by other fibres - e.g. orlon.

Uses : Men's and women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.

Angora

Fibre : Hair from the angora rabbit. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.

Weave : Various weaves and knitted.

Characteristics : Very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair.

Uses : Used mostly in knit wear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.

Astrakhan

Fibre : Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back.

Fur : Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caracul lambskin from the Astrakhan section of Russia.

Weave : Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.

Characteristics : Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm.

Uses : Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

Barathea

Fibre : Worsted, silk, rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.

Weave : An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.

Characteristics : Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.

Uses : Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

Beaver Cloth

Fibre : Wool. Also cotton and napped on both sides - double faced.

Weave : Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled.

Characteristics : Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm- resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine.

Uses : Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime cloths and sports clothes where work is required.

Bedford Cord

Fibre :Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.

Weave : Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.

Characteristics : Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass, claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.