howto

How To

Glow Plug Clips
Frequently there is a need to connect a wire to a glow plug, such as with Helicopters, tightly cowled engines and onboard glow systems. The pic shows some of the ‘solder on’ methods I have successfully used. The one on the left is a wheel collar while the second is a dress press-stud. The third utilizes a body clip from a model car and the third a servo push rod connector. If it is found to be necessary to drill out the hole in the wheel collar or the servo connector, to accept the plug post, then limit the depth to the grub screw. This will prevent them from being pushed too far down and the possibility of shorting out on the cylinder head.

Covering with Glass Fiber and water based Polyurethane

The method described here is suitable for covering sheeted models prior to painting. The glass fiber adds strength and a good surface to accept paint. Water based clear polyurethane paint is recommended to bond the glass fiber to the balsa. It is simple to apply and non toxic. Other agents, such as thin epoxy could alternatively be used, with adequate precautions.
After sanding, remove all dust with a tack cloth. Cut a piece of GFcloth only slightly larger than the area to be covered. To cut the Glass Fiber cloth, use a rotary cutter, available form fabric stores. See pic. I use a straight edge and cut on a piece of dry wall. When the dry wall becomes severely scored it can be turned over to use the other side. Put the GF cloth piece gently in place over the area to be covered. see pic
Now, this is the clever part. With a clean dry paint-brush; brush from the center of the GF outward toward the edges. This dry brushing generates static electricity, which sticks the GF to the balsa. Working from the center out, brush out all wrinkles and around any curves. The GF will mold to almost any shape.
When satisfied that the GF is flat and wrinkle free apply the water based polyurethane paint. Start at the center of the piece and work to the outer edges as before. see pic. Let it dry over night, then repeat until the model is covered.
Where the GF overhangs, it is simply cut with a model knife. Any rough edges and stray fibers can be toned down by lightly rubbing with coarse sand paper.
Wipe down with a tack cloth and apply a second coat of the water based polyurethane. Apply generously to fill the cloth pores. Don’t worry about the weight, as most of the WBPU is water, which will dry out. Just don’t have any runs as these will have to be sanded down later
Sand down clean and apply your favorite paint system.
I normally use ‘Varathane’ brand WBPU and am very pleased with the results. One winter however I did use’ Minwax polycrylic’ and that was a disaster – but that’s another story

Onboard still camera
Pictures taken from an rc plane add a fresh interest to the hobby. The pod arrangement shown here is the third onboard sytem I have used. The first was identical to this but used a 'disposable' camara. It worked fine but not having auto advance, the plane had to be landed to rewind between each picture. This camara with auto advance and flash, was purchased for less than $10.
The pod is attached to a high wing plane, with rubber bands. The single bolt arrangement allows it to be pointed in any direction. Forward or down one wing are recommened.The prop tip can be included in forward shots to add interest. Shooting down a wing makes for easier target sighting from your ground position. The flash is a good indication that the camara is working.
The curved base is made from two laminates of 1/32" ply, bonded with wood glue. Taping them down tightly over a wing to set, will obtain the desired wing profile shape. The camera box is made, to fit, from light ply. A servo is glued to the side with a coroplast spacer. This spacer also acts as a guide for the actuation rod. A popsicle stick is used for the lever. It is hinged at one end and a glued on eraser opperates the camera plunger. The bendability of the popsicle stick prevents overloading the servo. Wheel collets on the actuation rod allow for adjustment.