Dia de los muertos has a pre hispanic origin thousands of years old. Prior to evangelisation, death was conceived as belonging to the same component as life in a universe of duality. The two were intrinsic to each other... one could not exist in isolation and each provided meaning to its counterpart. In pre hispanic times, the dead were frequently reverred and summoned through rituals of sacrifice and blood letting. There was no sense of separation between life and death, the two were in constant dynamic interplay. The ghosts of the departed were worshipped as ancestors and maintained an active role in the community. They interracted with the living via the official go between shaman or priest. The details of pre hispanic celebrations have been largely lost. The former gods of death have been destroyed along with the knowledge of making their contact. The present day festivity is a blend of catholicism and former tradition. Africa, Asia and Europe have also added a flavour to the mix.
REGARDING CATHOLICISM
The colonial clergy, as men of high moral inclination, naturally found the pre hispanic practices of human sacrifice, blood letting, mutilation, cannibalism etc somewhat abhorent. Their sense of religiousity was provoked and they were propelled to destroy the Indigena's former works... all religious and scientific documents, idols and achievements. A policy of merciless cruelty combined with a merciful plague of European disease left the Indigenous populations thankfully sparse and open to reeducation. This was achieved mainly through art and song and is the reason why Latin American religious icons stand in bright and colourful contrast to sombre European counterparts. Note also the particularly gory renditions of Christ who stands by all accounts as a symbol of human sacrifice. Regarding funeral customs and death rites, Catholic traditions of mass, suffrage, communion and prayer (to aid those in pergatory) coincided to some extent with former indigineous beliefs and practices. Since the 15th century, November 2nd marked 'all saints day' on the catholic calender, a day when the dead are ritually honoured with prayer and offering. It also coincides with harvest time in Mexico, a time of death by natural association.
VARIATIONS OF TRADITION
Day of the dead is celebrated with various character in the different regions of Mexico. Festivities in the city are commercialised with large parties, parades and exhibitions of art. Rural celebrations are more traditional, ritualistic and respectful. Indigineous communities maintain the strongest link with the original ceremonies, symbols and intentions of meso america. Of these communities, the Purepecha are the most famous. Their dwellings for the most part lie in the western state of Michoacan and form a collection of villages upon the shores and islands of Lake Patzcuaro.
MORELIA... SUGAR SKULLS, CATRINAS, ALTARS
We made our base at the state capital of Morelia. It was a handsome city... a world heritage site of elegant colonial buildings... wide, orderly streets flanked by sand coloured facades, arched walkways, baroque details and decorations. There were a plethora of finely housed museums, an abundance of students. A great Cathedral dominated the Zocalo... you could see it for miles around.
We visited the tourist office for information... picked up a stack of books, pamphlets, maps, flyers. They were well prepared for the invasion... a multitude of tours on offer... events publicised with slick design.
Our first stop was the dulces market (sweets market). During Dia de los Muertos, Mexicans like to adorn their altars with sugar skulls. They had a ton of them on sale at the market... various sizes, often coloured brightly with icing... labelled with the names of the deceased. They were stacked in rows... staring out... Pedro, Juan, Ignacio, Maria. It is believed the practice may have Aztec origins. One source states that until a few hundred years ago, real skulls were used in the decoration of altars. These were removed from the cemetary and later returned with the Padre's supervision.
After browsing the dulces, we went to the artesania market to check out the Catrinas. 'La Catrina' is a finely clothed skeletal lady... the creation of a 19th century satirist. In his pokes at the upper classes, he would depicit skeletons dressed up in the attire of the wealthy... smoking, drinking, or else engaged in some other lively activity. 'La Catrina', 'the female dandy'or 'fashionable lady' is the most famous of his creations. Today she can be found variously rendered as statues... in wide brim hat and elegant gown. 'La Catrin' abounds too... in sombrero and smart suit. Sometimes the pair are getting married... or else lyingin a honeymoon bed... staring out with empty eye sockets. The finest renditions were at a special exhibition in Patzcuaro. La Catrina the beauty queen, La Catrina the film star, La Catrina the model... pushing out her rib cage... flashing a bit of thigh bone.
After taking in the Artesanias, we had a peek at some of the Offrendas (altars) in construction in the public buildings. Each household typically builds its own... its a family activity. Often though, public altars are assembled within museums, schools and other municipal buildings. The altars are made with variance to local customs but are typically adorned with candles, photos of the deceased, vessels containing their favourite foods and drinks, icons of patron saints, death bread, incense burners. The altars are always lavishly decorated with orange marigold flowers. Their petals are scattered in a path to the front door. This serves to guide the dead to their offerings.