Hurricane Ivan had historic New Orleans in its sights and every airport in the area was shutting down.

There was one last flight from Washington on Tuesday evening that would get us close to the eye of the storm.

We made it but only just.

I was equipped with everything a girl needs in a hurricane - waterproof trousers, wellies, a bright orange cagoule, a packet of chocolate chip cookies and t-shirts.

Despite the wind and rain, the temperature during a hurricane makes it feel like a steamy, summer's day.

I left the hairspray at home!

'Vertical evacuation'

Flying into New Orleans that night was a surreal experience.

As we descended, the first signs of Hurricane Ivan were obvious.

We were looking down at an enormous traffic jam - bumper to bumper on every road in sight. The city was emptying.

If Ivan hit the city there would be devastating floods.

Everyone had to move out or up.

The city's mayor had told everyone to leave or opt for "vertical evacuation" and move into high-rise buildings or hotels.

We arrived in one of the US' liveliest, most colourful cities to find it deserted.

The force of Ivan was already being felt.

After a night sleeping on the 12th floor of a hotel - we were opting for vertical evacuation too - the morning weather forecasts showed Ivan was going to spare New Orleans.

The hurricane had turned east towards Alabama.

Where Ivan went we followed.

Desperate

The drive to Alabama was sobering. We passed just a handful of cars, every shop and garage on the way was boarded up.

It left you wondering if you were doing the right thing.

The eye of Ivan was due to hit the area of Mobile in Alabama.

Thousands of residents had moved into local high schools turned into emergency shelters. Walking into Baker High School was shocking - 2,000 people crammed into corridors and classrooms.

Most had with them a small bag of possessions, a blanket, a pillow and often a Bible.

This is the heart of the American South. For many God was now their only comfort.

As I spoke to people, many held my hand, asking what I had heard.

When would Ivan hit? How strong was it? Would anybody be hurt? It was desperate.

The producers in our team, Will and Melanie, had been trying to work out how we could safely broadcast the story of Hurricane Ivan's landing in Alabama.

We wanted to stay on air throughout but we needed to be safe.

There was some pretty simple logic deployed - move away from the coast and literally take shelter behind a big building.

We based ourselves at a hotel where we felt we would feel the force of Ivan but probably still manage to keep working and explain what was happening for TV and radio.

On air... by candlelight

By around 6pm on Wednesday evening, we knew Hurricane Ivan was on its way. The sky darkened, the winds picked up and the rain came in.

But this was nothing compared to what was to come. By 8pm, the electricity had gone.

Winds of around 50mph (80km/h) at this stage were already taking out power lines.

What we initially thought could have been lightning was the sparks of those power lines blowing out.

We were preparing to go on air with torches and by candlelight.

By Midnight Hurricane Ivan was virtually upon us - brutal swirling winds, pounding rain and me attempting to stay standing for the BBC's Breakfast News programme and BBC World television.

I was able to stay on my feet while on air but if I had walked around five metres from our broadcast position that was it.

The winds took hold of you, the only way through was to get on our hands and knees and crawl - humbled by Ivan!

Eerie darkness

We knew Ivan would hit land at around 0130. We counted down the minutes and watched - shocked, scared and soaking.

It was a ferocious assault. Sheets of rain drenched us; the winds swept us off our feet.

We couldn't see, we couldn't speak to each other clearly, the shrill howling sound of Ivan's arrival echoed everywhere.

Staying inside our hotel room between broadcasts was actually more frightening than being outside in the face of Ivan.

You wanted to see what was happening. The darkness of being inside was eerie and it felt as though Hurricane Ivan was always on the verge of forcing its way through your door or smashing through your windows.

Bizarrely, outside just felt safer.

The intense, lashing winds and rain lasted for around three hours.

We stayed on air although had to opt for a mobile phone when it became too dangerous to stand in front of the camera - somehow we managed to hang onto a mobile phone signal throughout.

Every now and then we would hear the sounds of trees falling, of traffic signs and lights being snapped and blown away.

As dawn broke the real power of Hurricane Ivan was on show.

East Alabama and North West Florida had taken the full force - widespread flooding, the destruction of some coastal communities and the arrival of lethal tornadoes.

Ivan's onslaught on the American mainland took the lives of more than 30 people.

Facing the wrath of Ivan and staying safe was a humbling experience.