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The Surfer
Art by Swampetta (SWAMPETTA@aol.com)
Two poems and a story. By three authors.
Sitting still atop a sleek board,
Rising and falling with the sea,
All less-than-perfect waves ignored,
As the surfers wait patiently.
Their eyes search across the surface,
A surging seaswell is sighted.
Onward toward the shore does it race -
Alert surfers are delighted.
Paddling for proper position,
Assessing the steep climbing crest.
Most surfers in top condition,
Yet this wild wave will test the best.
Their kicks are speeded up slightly,
Firm hands grip both the board’s sleek sides.
In concert, rising up sprightly,
It’s a wonder no one collides.
Three poised surfers standing tall,
While others mis-time their one chance,
At once, one fellow teeters to fall,
In a clumsy tumbling dance.
Then, as the crashing crest thunders,
Carrying two surfers on high,
Another contestant blunders,
And his board is flung to the sky.
There, as the tube is unfurling,
One lad in the “pipeline” elates.
Through the tight curl he is hurtling,
With the rush each surfer awaits.
When close ashore the wave wallows
And the surfer loses all grace.
Falling, to splash in the shallows -
Yet, a smile lingers on his face.
By RickMack (jotoma@bellsouth.net)
***
Driving to the Ocean, Jake had full intentions of spending the rest of the afternoon surfing. But the traffic was so heavy, by the time he got there, the sun was starting to set. He stood there on the shore for awhile, trying to decide if he should go into the water or not. He knew it was unsafe to surf without another person in sight, but the temptation was just too great. And so, he started out. The waves weren't large, so he paddled further and further out. Finally he got a good wave and got ready to ride it. Just as he started riding the crest, he saw a large fin coming towards him. Something grabbed his leg and he screamed. He was pulled from the board and under the water. As he struggled to come to the surface, his panic was such, he almost had a heart attack. Just then, he saw the face of his older brother. His brother was laughing and laughing. "I bet you thought I was a shark." Lou called out."
"You rat!" Jake yelled back.
The two brothers swam to shore and Lou was still laughing. "I didn't know you were here." Jake said. "I thought you weren't coming."
"Mom was worried about you coming here so late in the day by yourself."
The brothers went back to their cars, and loaded up the boards. Then they drove home.
Jake just bided his time. Sooner or later, he would retaliate.
By Sharon (Sunyskys@aol.com)
***
To welcome the sun,
To start the day.
Greet the ocean,
And bless the bay.
May your board be golden
With the rising bright.
And float on the silver
When the moon brings night.
Respect the waters,
Keep them clean and clear
You can't get more
They are all right here.
So ride them and love them
And they'll bring you safe home
Use your board and your mind
When traveling the foam.
By SWAMP (SWAMPETTA@aol.com)
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© SWAMP (SWAMPETTA@aol.com)
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Art by (SWAMPETTA@aol.com)
March 2004
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