THE THRILL OF THE GRILL
St. Charles Herald Guide 7/01

Angie Ledbetter
© 6/01

"For as long as there has been a South, and people who think of themselves as Southerners, food has been central to the region's image, its personality and its character…Accents and attitudes and life-styles may change, but fondness for Southern food persists; for many people it lingers in the mind and on the tongue as vividly as the tantalizing aroma of barbecue on the pit hangs in the air and penetrates to the core of thought and remembrance." - John Egerton, Southern Food at Home, on the Road, in History

Barbeque, BBQ, barbecue - 1. A large animal roasted or broiled whole or split over an open fire or pit, 2. A social gathering especially in the open air at which barbecued food is eaten.

The word "barbeque" is believed to have originated from the Spanish word "barbacoa" which is a derivation from an American Indian term for a framework of green wood on which meat and fish was cooked over an open pit of coals. Others think that the French should be credited with the original definition. When Caribbean pirates first came ashore, they roasted animals for meals, barbe-a-queue, or head to tail.

No matter its origin or true meaning, barbeque is here to stay! No truly Southern gathering is complete without the pits being fired up and ready to receive their offering. This delicious means of cooking some of our dearest recipes has become a cultural icon and an emblem of Southern history. The whole barbequing event is more than a good way of producing scrumptious meals. In its rituals, we carry on important family traditions and hold on to social arts that have fallen by the wayside for unfortunate societies. Yes, BBQ will always be King of the South! Memphis, many areas of Texas, Mississippi, Alabama, and the Carolinas boast of their pit expertise and claim the title of "World’s Famous BBQ." Variety, being the spice of life, demands that we try these BBQ variations for ourselves until we’ve hit on our own personal favorites.

Lest we think that the barbequing phenomenon is peculiar to the Southern region of the US, barbeque enjoys popularity around the globe with each area adding its own local twists and flavors to recipes and pit cooking methods.

Hawaii has its well-known luau cooking, which vacationers to that paradise setting have come to know and love. This in-the-ground slow cooking style leaves plenty of time for visiting and entertainment - truly the main ingredient in any barbequing event. Hawaiians hold family (ohana) and family affairs as a top priority. Frequent beach parties, luaus and barbeques reinforce this fact. Add a tarp setup and a few ukuleles to the hunted pig now roasting for dinner, and you have an all-day gathering.

While visiting Hawaii, you’re likely to hear, "Ho Ka ‘Ono!" (Let’s eat, it’s so good!) At your next barbeque, why not add an island favorite to your menu? Shish kabobs, ribs or burgers all go well with this delicious side dish:

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Honeysuckle Pineapple

4 slices fresh pineapple
1½ tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons cherry brandy
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Mix together honey, brandy and lemon juice in a glass bowl. Add pineapple and coat well with marinade mixture. Cover and leave in refrigerator for at least an hour.

Preheat grill to medium high and lightly oil grate.

Remove pineapple from bowl, discarding marinade. Place wedges directly onto rack or in a grill basket for about 10 minutes. Turn wedges until pineapple is hot and caramelized. Makes 6 servings.

The Chinese are a very hospitable people and locals love inviting new friends home for a meal. They take pride in fixing the best feast possible for any who come for a visit and include entertainment such as singing in the evening’s plan. A very popular meal includes barbequed-skewered mutton with hot sauce or other dishes prepared on a small grill or hibachi set up.

 

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Chinese Barbeque Pork
(Char Siew)

1 tablespoon Hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon Soy sauce
1 Fresh garlic, chopped fine
4 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon each salt & pepper

Slice one-pound pork into strips approximately 1 - 2 inches thick and about 5 - 6 inches thick. Combine all ingredients for sauce above and mix well. Marinate strips in refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Bake in preheated 375ºoven or on BBQ pit for 25 minutes. Turn strips over and cook for an additional 25 minutes.

As diversified as our country’s regions, Africa has its own barbeque recipes to represent each area. Kwazulu Natal, which became an official community in 1860, began with little more than a few sugar cane plantations and indentured laborers. Over the last 141 years, it has begun to thrive with economic growth stimulated by an Indian population. Braai (barbeque) is served in this South African land to travelers on safari, as well as a main staple on the family table. Water buffalo and some fish species won’t be available here for grilling, but by substituting your favorite grocery market item and using the same recipe, you’ll have a deliciously different meal to serve.


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Kariokor Nyama
(Barbecued meat)

Prepare the following ingredients and
keep in a sealed jar for future barbeques.

½ cup coarse, kosher style salt
2 tablespoons coarse black pepper
2 tablespoons coarse red pepper
2 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder

Rub mixture into the fatty parts of ribs, pork, or chicken skins with your fingers. Barbeque according to your favorite recipe. Meats are never basted with oil or sauces; yet never seem to be dry. Keep salad oil handy to brush lightly on top if this happens.

In Argentine, a huge variety of asada (barbeque) is served and beef rules all menus. The parillada mixta (mixed grill) is Argentina’s main meal event and not a place for vegetarians, but barbeque lovers will be in heaven. Sides of beef rotate over a fire pit, and are sliced off in small portions. Average restaurant diners consume 2 pounds of beef at a single meal, served with a splash of their favorite condiment, Chimichurri Sauce.


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Chimichurri Sauce

4 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Cup red wine vinegar
4 Tablespoons cayenne pepper
4 Garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon black peppercorn
1 teaspoon oregano
1 bay leaf, crumbled
½ teaspoon of salt

Combine all ingredients in a bottle, shake well to mix, and put in a cool place, or refrigerate, for 4 or 5 days for the flower to develop. Grill favorite cut of meat or poultry and sprinkle with sauce to taste.

One final barbequed main dish that is a sure-fire hit with everyone who’s ever had the pleasure of eating it is Drunken Chicken. Although it is a pretty new invention, there are already many variations on the original recipe. Its adaptability is one of its strengths. Consider trying it out at your next backyard BBQ.

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Drunken Chicken

As many plump, juicy chickens as needed to feed your clan and one can of beer (any brand) for each chicken

Have coals going early and glowing at the good cooking stage. Empty out all but one-third of each beer can. Fill each until at least half way full with a little Liquid Smoke flavoring, orange juice, cola, cherry juice, Tabasco Sauce, Tony Cachere’s seasoning, Garlic powder, or spices and flavorings of your choice.

Rub dry spices well onto the outside of each chicken. Set chickens firmly down onto cans until the chicken legs are balancing on the grill. There will not be much of the can visible if done properly. Close the pit lid and begin leisurely visiting with friends.

You will know that the chickens are done when their tender, cooked legs can no longer hold them upright - hence the name "Drunken Chicken." When they fall over on the rack, they are ready to serve. 12 chickens will feed about 30 hungry men and should take about 3 hours or so to cook. Juicy on the inside, crispy on the outside!

Great side dishes for this meal are caramelized onions (thinly sliced rings with a dab of butter or olive oil and a little Tony’s sprinkled on top, encased in aluminum foil on the grill), mushrooms in barbeque sauce with a dash of crab boil added, and grilled garlic pods prepared the same as the onions after slicing off the top of the bundle.) Ca c’est bon!

Each and every community of the world may have its own recipe for barbeque, but it’s hard to deny that the Southern United States still reigns supreme. For seventy-five years or more, the roadside barbecue joint has thrived. Whether rubbed, marinated, cooked in a Cajun ground pit, slow cooked on the grill, smoked, or spit roasted, the investment of time and friendship make our barbecuing events something to savor.

The love of barbecue knows no barriers of sex, class, culture, religion, or race. The only minor distinction made is in the terminology. Barbeque is a verb to most Northerners, meaning to cook something on the backyard pit. In the South, however, barbeque is definitely in the noun category. It is a carefully planned and executed gathering of family and friends who’ve been annexed into family membership. All appreciate the art of conversation, time that moves a little slower than most places, and the smell and taste of good food. Slowwwwwwww is good, whether it be in the cooking or the visiting.

The future of barbecuing (especially in the Deep South) won’t change anytime soon, but there is already a Solar BBQ on the market in Australia. With space age technology readily at hand, one can’t be too amazed that there are already microwave-type grills and spits available, which sadly eliminate the need for "wasting time" out in the backyard while the meal is prepared in a leisurely fashion.

 

Tips for a Better BBQ

*For delicious grilled meat every time, remember to marinate - the longer the better. New plastic serving pieces make the process of marinating easier and less messy to baste and turn the container over instead of each individual food item.

*Have all your barbeque tools ready and at hand. (Long handled spatulas, tongs, skewers, sauce mop or brush, fast lighting charcoal, etc.)

*Know how your barbeque pit best operates. Start the fire well before you plan to eat, and make sure your coals are right before adding food to the grill to avoid burning, over or under cooking.

*Most grills work at peak performance when placed about 4 or 5 inches above the coals.

*Make sure to keep your pit well cleaned and oil the racks lightly before each use.

*Baste food frequently. Do NOT rush the cooking process.

*Vegetable and side dishes work best when wrapped in a double thickness of aluminum foil. There are also some great side dish baskets and utensil pieces available on the market for cooking ease.