Uprating your Suspension:


This is a major job but not too hard to achieve. I recommend getting it professionally checked afterwards.
This is a full photo tutorial taken from the book "Improve and Modify Ford Fiesta" published by Haynes.
Amazingly you can still buy this book today for about a tenner. Go and order it now! Most of the products inside are out of production but it's still a valuable source of information.

Tools Needed:

I wouldn't give yourself any less than a day to do this work so don't rush on with it one afternoon if you're going to need the car the next morning for work !

FRONT SUSPENSION ( The hardest bit!)


Step 1: Separating Suspension fron the Front Axle.

After removing the front wheel.
Remove the Strut to Axle Retaining bolts.
Disconnect the brake line securing mount. This is fixed onto the side of the suspension leg - just pop it out.

Step 2: Remove the Stub Axle.

With the previous steps completed it should be easy to lift the stub axle clear of the suspension unit.

Step 3: Disconnecting the Suspension Unit.

Open the bonnet and remove the rubber dust cap from the strut top.
With this removed you can use an Allen key stuck into a ratchet from a socket set to remove the retaining nut, you'll need to use a spanner to stop everything from turning at once!

Step 4: Removing the Suspension Unit.

Remove the top plate and simply pull the suspension unit out from under the car.
Once removed you'll need to use a couple of Valve Spring Compressors to compress the suspension spring. (Pictured are Pro ones, you can buy or hire DIY clamps)
When the spring is suitably compressed you can use an Allen key in a socket wrench and a spanner to remove the upper spring plate.
BE CAREFUL if you accidentally release a compressed spring you could literaly 'loose your head'.


Step 5: Re-assembly.

Simply do the reverse of the above step to assemble the new suspension unit. Add the new spring to the new unit, compress it and affix the upper spring plate using the Allen key and spanner again.


Step 6: Fixing to Car.

After releasing the valve spring compressors you should be ready to replace this new unit in the old units hole under the car.
Secure the unit at the top by reversing Step 3.
Grease up the lower strut retaining bolts and tighten them to the correct torque setting.
You'll need to 'encourage' the new suspension unit back into the stub axle assembly. Having done so, the nuts and bolts have to be greased and tightened up to the correct torque setting using a torque wrench.

REAR SUSPENSION ( The easy safe bit!)


  Step1: Fig (1) Step1: Fig (2)
Step 1: Disconnection

After removing the wheel remove the lower damper mounting bolt.(1)
Pull away the lower location arm from its peg.(2) This is likely to be very tight.. Give it a wack!

Step 2: Remove the Spring

Believe it or not, once the damper has been released the spring can be just pulled out - no compression!

Step 3: Release the Top.

Open the boot and remove the dust cap from the strut tops.
Unscrew the mounting locknut, washer and insulator.
You will need someone to help hold the damper unit outside the car to steady it whilst you are unbolting the top.

Step 4: Assembly.

Pop in the new spring and slip the new damper into the old damper's hole.
You may need help holding the damper whilst tightening up the top locknut.

  Step5: Fig (1) Step5: Fig (2)
Step 5: Refitting the Lower Arm.
Firstly you'll need to grease up the locator peg.(1)
Now try and fit the location arm onto this peg. Note: The new bush will be very tight.

Impossible isn't it !
Well you can cheat, simply use a valve spring compressor to force/clamp it together.(2)
Re-attach the lower damper mounting bolt (you removed it in Step1).

Step 6: Tightening
Now that its all together you'll need to tighten up all the nuts and bolts, again using the correct torque settings and applying grease to save them from siezing up in the future.

Step 7: FINISHED
Thats it !
You may need to get your tracking checked and adjusted due to the new lower position and stiffer suspension.
Make sure that all the work carried out above is done to the correct torque settings.
Torque settings can be found in the Haynes Workshop Manual.
PS: It is easier than it looks, just think it over a bit before you do it!