I had been sitting in
the Piazza of a small city in the Italian province not far from
They were of the hippie-generation,
suntanned and backpacked. The man wore an assorted array of tattoos which made
his skin look like an Indian batik. The girl was bejangled with cheap
accessories and arrayed with jewelry hanging from every appendage. They hung
from her ears, embraced her wrists and ankles and gave her the appearance of a
living Christmas tree.
I was at the opposite table pretending to
read a book but thoroughly engrosses in their conversation. They were travelers
but canvassed the planet each to discover what explorers had already mapped and
to find something unique which had been overlooked by guides and guidebooks,
terrorists and traders.
I felt I had to intrude.
gAhem excuse me...hI said, gHave you ever
been to Ucellino?h
gWhere?"
gUcellino. a small
charming town fifty kilometers from here.h
The woman quickly reached for her
guidebook and thumbed through the index. gHow do you spell that?h she inquired.
gOh, you won't find it in a guidebook.
Perish the thought.h I asserted with contemptuous authority.
gThe village is quite
remote and does not even appear on ordinary maps.h
gHow interesting.h
gYes, indeed. Ucellino means "little
bird" in Italian and the city is famous for its thousands of swallows
which live in the trees in the piazza and along the main streets.h
gHow very interesting!
Something like Capistrano.h
gWell, sort of, but not at
all. These birds never leave. The place is far too beautiful to invite
departure.h
gBut, I thought swallows
always migrated.h
gNot these.h I spoke in
defense.
gWhat else can one do in the
town of
gYou mean, Ucellino. Well,
the city has a lovely cathedral, quite small but lovely nonetheless. The
stained glass windows are among the best in the region and the tapestries which
hang inn the nave were brought from
I noticed that their
interest had been piqued and the young woman was scanning frantically through
her guidebook looking for even a trace of any word resembling Ucelllino.
gHow is the best way to get there?h
gWell,h I said seriously, gThere is a
bus that goes there every day. I say 'bus' but it is more like a mini-van. It'
does not keep a very good schedule but it is not far from here. So you just
have to be there and wait till it comes. If it doesn't show up by noon, then it
has already left.h
The woman asked, gHow long does it take
to get there? Can we make it in a day trip?h
gAlthough it's only 50 kilometers from
here, the road there is not very good. Once you get out of this town the road
gradually deteriorates. It starts out paved and ends up pebbled. It narrows
along the way and ascends into the mountains. It may take you as long as two
hours to get there.h
After a pause.
gTo answer your second question,
yes. You can make it a day trip, but everyone who goers there tend to linger.
It is a place to leave with reluctance. Most people spend at least a week. Some
even longer.h
gso,h said the man putting his
hand over that of the woman's, gCan you suggest any places to stay in Udeliino.h
gno,h I asserted with annoyance, gIt's
Ucellino, I corrected. "Ucellino.h I emphasized emphatically.
gWell, there arenft many
guesthouses and hotels in Ucellino but you can perhaps do a home stay but I
don't recommend it if you snore. My favorite is the Ucellino Guesthouse...it's
not far from where the bus will drop you off.h
The woman asked, gHow much
is it per nigh?.h
gOh, about ten dollars with
hot water and private bath and breakfast included.h
I noticed that the man had
become suspicious though the woman was eager to go.
gYou're really kidding, aren't you?h he
said looking at me with dubious eyes and sensing I was not completely honest.
gWhy would I lie to you?h I replied with
angelic innocence and candor.
gI don't know why?h he admitted with
confusion, gBut, I do know that if this were such a wonderful place other
people would be talking about it, and they ain't. There would also be posters
and signs and mentions of it in travel books, and there ain't.h
I put an expression on my face that indicated
I was shocked.
gIn other words,h I said, gyou
only go to places where others have been or guide books direct you to go! My!
My! What an adventurous soul you are!h I said this with such cynicism that I
knew I was inviting trouble. I continued. gIf
The woman did not like the
negative flow of energy. It was obvious that she was the peacemaker in their
relationship and did relish confrontation.
gOh, Brock, stop it! Stop annoying
the man! I'm sure that what he says is true. So, what do you think? Let's go
tomorrow.h
Her choice was always the
final decision and Brock knew it all too well. Behind her peacemaking at most
issues which involved decisions she always prevailed and go her way.
g We'll go tomorrow first thing in the
morning.h
Turing towards me she commanded, gJust
show us where we get the bus. Just take us to the stop. You said it was not far
from here.h
I began to feel a bit nervous. The joke
I had intended to play had already gone too far and I wanted to take it no
further. Ucellino did not exist. Of this I was certain and there was no place
named the Ucellino Guesthouse. I had made it all up, but to reveal my mischief
to these two strangers would have caused me to lose face and generate a lot of
hurt. One lie no matter how insignificant and no matter how innocent or amusing
is still a lie and once said is irretrievable.
gSo, let's go and show us where
the bus stop to Ucellino ish she insisted, gTomorrow we can go there first
thing in the morning.h
Not having the courage to expose myself
as a liar, I decided to show them to a bus stop which would lead them to
nowhere.
It was now getting a bit late and
evening was approaching. We walked together down a narrow street and turned
quickly onto the main boulevard. I tried to act calm as I scrutinized the area
looking for a suitable corner where I could stake claim that a bus for Ucellino
stopped.
Suddenly, the young woman screamed
in excitement and delight. Across from where we were standing, less than three
meters away was a sign. it read, gBuses to Ucellino stop here.h
gNo.h I said to myself in
disbelief. g It can't be true. There is no Ucellino. I made it all up in my
mind.h
gIt's here,h she screamed like a
child opening gifts for the first time at Christmas. She approached the sign
and read it out loud, gBuses to Ucellino stop here.h Under the sign were the
words. gA mysterious city, sleeping through the ages. Not yet discovered. Buses
leave at 9:30 a.m. every morning.h
Turning to her
boyfriend-partner-whoever he was, she scolded, gYou see, it does exist after
all. Youfre so cynical.h turning towards me she thanked me copiously and said, gThank
you for the travel tip. I am glad we will enjoy ourselves.h
gDon't mention it.h I said doubly
confused. When they were gone I sat in a nearby bench stunned. gIt couldn't be.
I mean, I really invented the place.h