Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in Britain and so enormously popular. It lies immediately behind Fort William which is situated on Loch Linnhe, a sea loch although a long way from the open ocean. Since the climb starts from sea level it is quite arduous but just a steady plod if the pony track is used. The north-east face on the other hand has impressive cliffs and gives a variety of rock climbing routes to the top. In winter these become ice climbs and it is for these that Ben Nevis is best known amongst the climbing fraternity.The discerning walker who enjoys narrow ridges and simple scrambling will approach the mountain by way of the celebrated Carn Mor Dearg arete which is one of the finest walks in Britain. The route first climbs Carn Mor Dearg, itself one of Scotland's few 4000 foot summits. From this vantage point the arete is seen at its best and the drop onto it seems quite intimidating unless you have a good head for heights. The scrambling is very easy however, albeit in a dramatic setting. The really confident can stride along the crest for much of the way but for the less surefooted there are rocks to hold onto most of the time. The long narrow section terminates at the foot of a steep boulder field which must be climbed to reach the summit.
In summer this is a delightful expedition but note well that when there is snow on the arete it would become a serious undertaking requiring full winter equipment and experience. This would be fairly obvious but a more subtle danger lies in the aforementioned boulder field which is particularly treacherous under snow and the scene of several fatal accidents. Unfortunately this slope cannot be seen until the arete has been completed. A line of posts marks the safest line but it would be unwise to make this ascent in snow unless properly equipped and competent in icy conditions.
The summit itself may be a disappointment. It is very flat and littered with a mass of man-made structures, the inevitable trig point, a very conspicuous refuge hut and at least one large commemorative cairn. In 1883 an observatory was built on the summit and the pony track was constructed to access it. In 1904 this was closed down and later used briefly as a hotel before being allowed to fall into ruin after the first world war.
Despite these intrusions this is an impressive place for only a few yards away the plateau ends abruptly in the cliffs of the north-east face. Snow lingers up here well into the summer most years and mist covers the summit on about 300 days so I have read. In white out conditions this is a very dangerous place, in particular because one big gully, often edged by cornices, cuts into the cliffs to within a few yards of the pony track just as its line becomes unclear on the summit plateau. Further down the infamous Five Finger Gully is a less obvious hazard on the other side of the path. Posts erected here to indicate the line of this path brought howls of protest from purists who prefer their mountains unmarked. I go along with that philosophy but having been up there recently on a perfect clear day it seems a bit crazy that the line onto the path is marked only by one cairn, indistinguishable amongst many others. Since this summit is already so polluted, with posts and a sign marking the line to the arete which will normally only be followed by fairly experienced walkers, it seems hard to argue against a similar thing for the crowds who visit this place, many of them obviously inexperienced and perhaps without a proper map.
Once safely embarked on the pony track it makes an excellent descent route, zigzagging down the stony western flanks of this massive mountain. Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe is a good spot for a rest or one can escape from the crowds and have a grassy respite on Meall an t-Suidhe. Thereafter the track improves where much restoration work has been done as it descends into Glen Nevis.
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