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Pack fit is one of the most important parts of a hike, and an often neglected one! Your not
going to enjoy the scenery, if a shoulder strap is causing you agony at every step, or a
misfitted hipbelt won't let you high-step over a log. All you'll think about is making it to the
next rest break!
The Objective of fitting a pack:
To get most of the weight of the pack riding on your
hips, not your shoulders. There're various opinions on exactly how much weight should be
borne by which.
A good ratio is 20% shoulders, 80% hips, as the hips have the weight bearing bones of the
body, not the shoulders.
1.Hipbelt:
What does the weight transfer. Unlike a belt, it's worn a little above the points of the hipbones, so it exerts downward, and inward pressure, on the hips. Hipbelts usually have one sub-componet, hipbelt stablizer straps, one on each side.
2.Shoulder straps:
These are adjusted so that the end result to have a properly placed hipbelt, effectively transferring the weight. Shoulder straps have two sub-componets, the sternum strap, and (especially internal packs) the load lifter straps, attached one to eack shoulder strap and to the pack.
Fitting a PackThe two types of packs, Internals and Externals, are adjusted differently. Internals
Virtually all internal frame packs have a set of straps that go
from the front of each shoulder strap, to the top of the pack. These are
called "load lifters" (sometimes "load stabilizers"). They serve two functions:
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Most internal frame packs have hip stablizers, straps that go from the
middle of the hipbelt to the sides of the pack, one each side.
Adjusting the hip straps determines how close the pack rides to the hips.
Usually the smallest, and overlooked, strap to need adjusting, is the sternum strap. Buckling across your upper chest, from one shoulder strap, to the other. It's isn't there just to keep the shoulder straps from sliding off your shoulders.
It helps to get the harness supension "working well." It usually can be adjusted
up and down, to get the right spot.
Note to ladies: make sure that you can adjust it to a comfortible position!
On most internal frame packs, the 2 stays (the frame) usually can be custom bent to fit your
back. If you take the stays out, mark them, to know which way they go back in.
After the pack is "paked" tighten the compression straps on each side of the pack itself,
these keeps the load from shifting.
Most internal frame packs need break in period, like boots. The pack should feel "fitted"
after a week or two on the trail.
Externals
Shoulder straps: They should be adjusted to a 45 degree angle, from your shoulders to the
pack frame. If it does have the load lifters (MOST DON'T), the shoulder straps should anchor
to the frame straight back, not down like an internal.
Hipbelts: An adjustment that many external frame packs have is a floating hipbelt. You can
change where on the hipbelt the pack is anchored, to adjust for torso lenght.
Torso length:
Adjustments for both internals and externals are the same:
Pack sizes are determined by torso length, not the height of your body.
Just because you and your friend are the same height does not mean that
your pack size will be the same. You can be the same height as your friend, but have longer
legs and a shorter torso.
Measure your torso by using a soft tape measure, having
someone measure your spine, from the 7th vertibre (the bump at the base of your neck), to
the point on your spine, in between the points of your hipbones (usually around to top of your
back pocket on your jeans). Generally, an extra small torso is about 16 inches, a very large
one, 21 inches. Often, pack specs will state how it's size is proper for what torso lenghts.
When you put the pack on, shrug it up to the right position, and tighten up in this order,
hipbelt, shoulder straps, load stabilizers.
Taking a pack off, reverse this order. This process helps with several things:
It's easier to take off, and puts less stress on the hipbelt and straps.
Makes it easier to put back on, slipping into loose shoulder straps, instead of wriggling into
the pack.
The choice between internal and external frames is a tough one. You are buying something
that you will have to wear for a long time, put forth an effort!
The most important thing to do: TRY, FIT, TRY, FIT, several internal and external brands, with
WEIGHT in them! All packs feel good empty! Ladies: Several brands make packs for women, ask!
If possible, no, do it! Bring your stuff to a store (packed neatly in stuff sacks, don't forget to simulate food weight), and actually "pak" the pack there. There're a few ways to "pak the load", depending on if a pack is external, internal, and type of hiking you will be doing. Know these ways, in order to get a " true feel" of the model pack your trying out.
"Hike" the loaded pack around the store least 1/2 hour. You'll know, if anything starts to pull,
tug, chafe, or needs adjusting. Externals "ride" higher than internals, you should feel the
difference.
Some salespeople are resistant to shoppers "pakin 'n hikin", or don't really know how to "fit 'n pak" a pack. If they won't allow you to, go somewhere else! Don't be bullied into thinking that a pack will "carry" ok, as a salesperson might say, when you hike a trail. If they state such, ask them to explain their rationale. Even if you are fitting packs in a store, but planning to mail order the "right" pack for you.
These sizes are for men and women, but remember, women's shoulder harness and hip belts are cut slightly diffenent, so don't settle for a man's pack, if you are hiking a long distance, or keep it for a long tine. To achieve comfort, you must first achieve fit!
Small 5'4" to 5'7" tall
with a 27" to 30" waist.
Medium 5'8" to 5'11" tall with a 31" to 33"
waist.
Large 6'0" to 6'3" tall with a 34" to 37" waist.
When you're finished with this section, |  |