This is the log of a trip that had been in the planning stages for over a year but it's actually a lifetimes dream come true. As Jimmy Buffet would put it "Mother-Mother ocean, I have heard you call - I've wanted to sail upon your waters since I was three feet tall." It seems hard to believe that we are actually going to do this!
Robin & I get up at 2:45 AM, an unfit time for anyone to be awake, to start our drive to Detroit Metro Airport. At the time we made the reservations the savings seemed to make the drive worthwhile, but now I have my doubts. At this time of the morning we only have to share the road with the few truckers who are working on Thanksgiving day. The ride goes well and we make it to the airport in under three hours.
Surprisingly all of our flights are one time! We arrive in SanJuan with no problems after changing planes in Raleigh Durham. The flight from SanJuan to Beef Island is great! The visibility is very good and we get to see an overview of the Islands we will be sailing. Robin & I are lucky enough to have a "local" sitting behind us. He takes it upon himself to be our tour guide and points out several items of interest.
Customs is "No Problem Mon!" Everyone's luggage actually shows up on the conveyor belt. The taxi is waiting outside. This is really scary, everything is going too smoothly!
The ride from the airport to the marina was very interesting. Tortola is a typical third world country! We see goats, chickens, cows and even donkeys as we ride through towns with names like "Fat Hogs Bay", "Roadtown", and finally "Nanny Cay". It is obvious that this is a poor area with the locals living in shacks. We also notice that the higher a house is up the mountain the fancier it gets. The open air taxi was a great way to see the sites.
Sun Yacht Charters is located in the Marina at Nanny Cay. Nanny Cay is your stereotype Caribbean village. The marina is complete with a beach bar (called Peg Legs) and a white sand beach lined with Palm trees. The highlight of the day was watching the hermit crabs scurry along the sidewalk.
After checking in with the charter company we settle into our new home. We have chartered a Catalina 42' named "Flying Fish". Robin & I were lucky again as we drew the spacious forward cabin. After unpacking, we decide to catch a taxi to Roadtown. It only seems appropriate that we visit Pussers on our first night in the BVI!
Pussers Company Store & Bar is every bit as quaint as I had pictured it. We all ordered drinks which were served in the famous metal cups. Painkillers, Bushwhackers, and John Courage (it was nickel beer night) beer were the beverage of choice for our first night in the islands. We all decide that a large fortune could be spent in the company store (Which eventually happened).
Our taxi driver did remember to come back to pick us up but not until we had a chance to explore downtown Roadtown. We did find the marina in Roadtown and were shocked by the size of the boats. Down here our boats would look like dinghies! Once back at the boat it was hard to get to sleep because of our new environment but mostly because of the anticipation of our adventure.
It was a great first day.
After very little sleep I wake up with the first light of day. I'm ready to get the boat out on the ocean. Unfortunately things move a little slower down here! Before we can leave the slip we have to go through our checkout, chart briefing, and provision the boat. While most of our crew was sleeping, I hop in the dinghy to do some exploring.
While the guys go through the checkout procedure, the girls head for the "Galley Gourmet" in Nanny Cay. We had planned on provisioning at the "Rite Way" store in Roadtown but decided that the taxi ride would probably make up for any savings. The girls come back with a good supply of food, snacks, and of course RUM. We also tried some Carib beer. I had talked to a local earlier who was putting away his 8:00 AM beer. He had told me that "if you drink two or three regular beers in the morning you don't feel like working - but with Carib - No Problem Mon !"
After what seems like an eternity we finally get to cast off. We let Capt. Craig have the honor of taking the helm first. Craig & Pat had made all the arrangements so it was only fitting that a Harrington got to drive first. After clearing the channel markers, we raised the main and pulled out the Genoa -- We were actually sailing in the Caribbean! The next order of business was to pop the cork on the bottle of Champaign that the charter company had provided. We toasted the Caribbean and Jeff & Janey who were back home in the cold & hopefully the snow.
The wind was blowing at about 15 knots. We put the boat on a beam reach and sailed past the west end of Peter Island and the Indians. Our destination was the Bight at Norman Island. It took no time at all to sail the short distance. Before we knew it we were dropping the hook and going for a swim in the ocean.
The Bight is a great spot to anchor. It is a cove with high mountains on three sides. Other than the cactus, it looks like how I imagine the North Channel will look (if we ever get there)! After a nice relaxing swim, we raise the "Only the Strong Survive" flag. This is now an official cruise.
With all the pomp and circumstance over with, we jump in the dinghy for our first try at snorkeling. We motor out of Bight to a spot called the "Caves". The caves are cut into the cliffs on the west side of Norman Island. They provide excellent diving and snorkeling. We are able see many varieties of fish and coral. This snorkeling was a far cry from what we had experienced in the Florida Keys.
After a great afternoon in the water we head back to the boat for dinner. The menu calls for steak (which was cheaper than burgers) on the grill, boiled potatoes (boiled in salt water of course), tossed salad, and a nice bottle of Merlot. Life is tough in the islands! It was a great dinner and Chef Richard did an excellent job at the grill.
After dinner we hopped in the dinghy for a trip to the "William Thornton". The "Willy T" is an old schooner which is anchored in the Bight. Rather than sailing the ocean the boat serves as a restaurant and bar. The crew from Harmony had dinner at the Thornton and reported that the ribs were excellent. We found that the painkillers and bushwhackers were also excellent. In a short time we also realized that the bartender made some wicked brew!
The crowd at the bar was an interesting mix, there were Texans, Brits, divers, and of course the typical Yachtys. We had a great time dancing, drinking, and visiting! A stop at the Bight wouldn't be complete without a visit to the Willy T!
The wind in the Bight funnels down from the sides of the mountains and picks up some real velocity. We are awakened at 5:00 AM by a big blow. Luckily Craig notices that our anchor is dragging. We get out into the cockpit just as we breeze by Harmony. We miss her by about 10 yards and are heading for St. Thomas! We do manage to get the engine started and reset the anchor. After this episode no one gets much sleep.
The Moral: When in the Bight Anchor Close to Shore!
After a really short "second nights sleep" everyone is up fairly early (a real feat for this crew). We have a meeting of the minds over a cup of coffee and decide to try snorkeling at the Indians before breakfast.
Once we have the anchor raised we head down wind and try to pull out the genny. The wind in the Bight is really blowing and we have a hard time getting the sail to unfurl. Actually we looked like a bunch of rookies. After a few select words, the sail is trimmed and we have a short but sweet sail past the Indians. Unfortunately, all the mooring balls are already taken so we agree to pass on snorkeling and head for Peter Island. I guess if you want to snorkel in one of the "hot spots" you had better arrive early.
Once we round the Indians we are on a close reach up the Sir Francis Drake channel. We sail with only the headsail and the boat is moving well. The wind in the channel is not nearly as strong as it was in the Bight. The cruising guide mentions that the winds in Bight can be much stronger than the rest of the BVI. As we approach Deadman's Bay (I just love the names down here) we get one of our many very short rain showers. We get the anchor down and everyone hopes it will hold.
Most of Peter Island is owned by Amway. After beaching the dinghy, we have a nice stroll along the Palm tree lined beach. This island has "picture postcard" scenery. Lunch will be at the "Deadman's Bay Bar & Grill". We all gasp as we are told that lunch costs a mere $22.00 a person. After some explanation we find out that a salad bar (with great desserts) or a sandwich is also available.
Peter Island has the reputation for making the best "Painkillers" and "Bushwhackers" in the islands. The bar manager remembered Craig from his previous visit and gave us a free first round. The drinks were every bit as good as they had been described. After a wonderful lunch and some shopping, we made the long trek back to the dinghy.
When we reached the dinghy we learned another lesson of the islands: ALWAYS PULL THE DINGHY WAY UP ON SHORE AND IF POSSIBLE TIE THE ANCHOR LINE TO A TREE! Our dinghy had floated several hundred feet down the beach and in the process had managed to fill with water. The boat was too heavy to tip, too full of water to move, and every wave deposited more water in the already full dinghy. After several tries we did manage to get the dink on shore and the drain plug removed. Finally we had a "dry" dinghy.
Because it was getting late in the day we motored past Salt Island and into Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island. The Cooper Island Beach Club maintains moorings which you can use for $15.00 a night After last nights anchor fiasco $15.00 is a small price to pay for a good nights sleep.
This trip was planned as a celebration for many different events: Craigs 50th. Birthday, Colleen's Birthday (how many years?), and our 25th anniversary. We made reservations at the beach club for the entire group. Tonight we will celebrate all the occasions at one time. We have a great dinner and a lot of laughs. After tonight we changed the name of "Painkillers" to "Brainkillers."
Once we are back on the boat we sit out on the deck and watch the stars. The sky is absolutely clear with the exception of some clouds and lightning south of the island. This lifestyle is hard to take!
After receiving the "standard" 5:00 AM blow, we all wake up "early". The first order of the day is snorkeling off Cistern Point. Cistern Point is a very large boulder off the West end of Cooper Island. This area provides excellent snorkeling on the leeward side of the rock. A dinghy mooring area has been setup which makes it easy to slide out of the dinghy and into the snorkeling. We see large schools of fish, including Grouper and two good sized Barracuda. This spot is much more active than the Caves but harder to snorkel because of the currents around the rock.
Rather than climbing back into the dink, Robin & I decide it will be easier to snorkel back to the boat (wrong!). Even though we are in salt water the swim back is long and hard. The only plus of the effort was that we spotted a very large grouper. We finally do make it to shore and Dick picks everyone up in the inflatable.
After a quick breakfast we head for our next destination, Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda. Harmony had left about a half hour before we did. Our goal: CATCH THEM! As we neared Harmony, Jack and I had a mooning battle. I'm not sure who won but if the battle had lasted longer I would have sunburned my backside. Not only did we catch them --- WE PASSED THEM!
Today was a great sailing day (Again). We had actually sailed past Spanish Town but no one really cared. We continued past the "Dogs" and out into the Blue Water. We were hoping to see some Dolphin but we did see a large Sea Turtle. After a nice sail into the rollers we tacked back toward Spanish Town. Shortly after our tack I noticed that we had lost our dinghy motor. Luckily we had insurance, unluckily Harmony will claim that we passed them because we were lighter!
The shore along Spanish Town is protected by a rather sizable reef but the channel is well marked and it is real obvious where the reef runs. We negotiate the channel with no problems and pull into a the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor. The marina is full! There are 30 boats chartered by 180 Germans and all of them are in the harbor. We do manage to get a spot on the wall. The problem is we had to back in and drop a hook on the way. With the wind conditions that was a fun task!
The Yacht Harbor is a very nice marina with shopping, a grocery, and a restaurant named "The Bath & Turtle". Surprisingly the shops are still open, we buy some souvenirs and even some Christmas presents. It's hard to believe that Christmas is only a few weeks away.
The Turkster makes reservations for the group at the Bath & Turtle. The food was good but the highlight of the night was the Raggae band. Everyone had a good time dancing, doing a conga line, and watching the limbo (which was won by a local named "Euctice Justice"). It was very obvious that none of us could compete with Euctice. Robin & I did do the "Caribbean Cowboy" to "Hot-Hot-Hot". Their version of the song lasts much longer than Buster Poindexters!
When we arrived back at the boat we found out that Jack had missed the ladder and taken a swim. Unfortunately, he was under the water long enough that Chris became very worried. When he did surface his first words were: "Damn those short legs!" (after arriving back home we found out that Jack, "Diver Dan", had broken 4 ribs!)
This was another interesting and fun day. The days are clicking by a little too fast. The temperatures have been running 85-90, but with the steady trade winds the conditions have been easy to adjust to. Winds have been running a constant 15-20 knots.
As usual I am the first one up and have the duty of making coffee. After a quick cup, I grab the camera and head out to do some wandering. The wind is already quite brisk but it is another beautiful day. By the time I get back to the boat the crew is up and ready for some shopping. Not all the shops were open yesterday so we manage to visit all those we missed plus the ones we didn't miss. We find more goodies to bring home and again buy a couple of Christmas presents.
By 10:30 the shopping spree of over and it is time to head for the Bath's. Jenny finds a taxi and manages to negotiate a fare. Most drivers start with a high fare and then change their price when you look like you are about to walk away. You'll hear them say - "For you Mon - I'll only charge $4.00 each. No Problem!"
The ride to the Bath's is fascinating. The taxi takes us past the little shacks the locals live in and then a small school with open sides. I wonder if that school has a computer lab and is looking for an instructor. Maybe I should do some job hunting while I'm here. If I could land a job I wouldn't have to go back.
The Bath's, which consist of piles of huge boulders, are even more fascinating that the pictures we had seen. Apparently the boulders were tossed into piles during volcanic eruptions. To see the Bath's you crawl through, under, and around the rocks. The scenes are incredible! As you look at the massive rocks you can only imagine the force it took to move these small mountains.
One section of the Bath's has formed a pool which is fed by the surf. It was fun to take a dip and relax in the warm salt water. Today there is very little surf so it was easy to swim in the pool. When the surf is running high it is impossible to enter the pool without being thrown against the rocks!
The trail through the Bath's ends at Devil's Beach. The beach is in a cove which again is formed by the boulders. The view here was well worth the trip down the trail. The surf in this area is pretty strong but we still swam in the cove. This beach is also known for it's nude sun bathers. Today must have been a slow day because Craig & I only managed to find one topless girl. Oh Yes! -The scenery is great down here.
After checking out the open air T-shirt stands we head back up the trail to the "Top of the Baths". The "Top of the Baths" is a restaurant which overlooks the Bath's, the Sir Francis Drake Channel, Virgin Gorda, and Tortola. The view is spectacular! This area is remarkable, as you look in one direction the area looks like a dessert complete with cactus but if you turn your head 90 degrees you see the ocean. It's a great combination.
The restaurant has a fresh water pool which you can enjoy while you have a drink or a meal. The water in the pool felt very cool compared to the ocean. We were wondering if they actually cooled the water. Imagine a hotel in Michigan advertising "A Cooled Pool!" It was nice to take a dip and get rid of the salt.
By this time of the day everyone is ready to eat. Chances are there isn't a better spot on the island to have lunch. Drinks for the day include some Carib's, brainkillers, bushwhackers, and Tom tries a few "SunSets". Robin and I have a great lunch which features local Conch soup and a fritter combination which includes conch, crab, and salt fish. It doesn't get any better than that.
By the time the crew returns to the marina it is really too late to head for the "Bitter End" on Virgin Gorda. No one really wants to try to sail through the reef in the dark. The real plus of not leaving is that most of the Germans headed for the Bitter End today. We almost have the marina to ourselves.
For dinner we head to "Andy's Chateau DePirate." This restaurant is on the beach overlooking the Sir Francis Drake. Our group is seated on the balcony which gives us a great view of the lights on Tortola. Monday must be a slow day here as we are the only customers in the place. Needless to say the service is good. For dinner we all have local "Spiny Lobster" which is excellent. The food in the islands has been very good but a bit pricey.
What a day! The best part was that "back home" everyone was working!
Weather forecast for the day: A high pressure area will be moving into the BVI bringing with it winds out of the Northeast at 25-35 knots. As a local radio announcer put it: "This will not be good news for boaters!" It looks like we're in for a "NorEaster!"
With this weather forecast a trip to the Bitter End did not sound like a great idea, the seas and wind would be right on the nose. After a short discussion, our plans changed. Today we would head west down the Sir Francis Drake channel to "Soper's Hole" on the west end of Tortola. On this course we will be sailing downwind, unfortunately the wind speed will be too high to fly the spinnaker.
I make a run to the office as soon as they are open and pay our slip fees. The anchor is raised and we are out here. As we leave the marina we are in the lee of the island and the winds don't seem too bad. Once we are in deep water the sail is unfurled to about 100% and off we go. The seas are fairly large but not really any different than we get on Lake Michigan. In fact, we all agree that if we had these wind speeds the Great Lakes would have been much rougher. As the boat surfs down the waves we have several squalls pass over. During one particularly heavy squall the wind meter reads 34 knots apparent, this would equate to an actual speed of approximately 41 knots. With these conditions we reach Sopers Hole in under 3 hours, not bad for a slow Catalina 42.
As the boat rounds "Frenchman's Cay", and we make the cut into the hole, the wind really pipes up. The breeze is funneling down the Mountains and into the bay. It seems odd that these supposedly protected anchorage's pick up so much wind. Luckily there are moorings available and we tie up to the first available can. We wouldn't be dragging an anchor tonight.
Sopers Hole is the home of "Sun Yacht" charters, "Pusser's Landing", and the "Jolly Roger" bar. This is a really nice little harbor which has all the facilities a boater needs. After settling in and having some lunch we climb into the dinghy and head for land. Once on land the girls head for shopping while the guys head for Pusser's. Brainkillers seem like an appropriate drink after an exciting sail. As we sit at the bar we notice that Harmony is sailing through the cut and heading toward Jost VanDyke.
Since we don't have many provisions left on board the decision is made to catch a taxi to Cane Garden Bay. The gang is going to have dinner at "Quito's Gazebo" so we'll meet them there. The taxi ride is very exciting (even in the dark) as we ride up one side of the mountain and then down the other. On the way we pass the "Bomba Shack". The shack hosts the monthly "Full Moon" party, unfortunately we missed the full moon by about a week.
Quito's Gazebo is owned by Quito Rhymer, a local recording artist. Even though we don't have reservations, we manage to get a table on the deck overlooking the bay. The restaurant is very busy tonight because our friends, "the Germans", are here. After a nice dinner, Quito and his band provide us with great entertainment. Quito specializes in writing his own local island music and is a very talented person. Down the beach we discover "Stanley's Bar". Stanley's features great steel drum music.
Cane Garden Bay is a must on any trip to the islands.
Our ride back to Soper's Hole is as exciting as the ride over! This has been a long but fun day!
Breakfast for today is coconut bread & yogurt. Robin & I bought the bread yesterday at the local grocery and it's great. You won't find coconut bread at Arnies Bakery in GR. As we are eating breakfast in the cockpit we watch a large tall ship, which serves as a cruise boat, pull into the harbor. From our boat it is a beautiful sight. As we passed her on the way out of the harbor we noticed that she wasn't quite as pretty up close.
The plan for today is to sail through the cut between Tortola & "Little Thatch" island and then head for Sandy Cay. After making the cut and then tacking to the Northeast we see a squall approaching. We manage to get the second reef in the main but leave the headsail up. The girls are not too happy about this move but the macho guys think it will be OK. As the squall approaches we can see the torrents of rain coming down. Obviously this one will also have some wind. It is too late to roll in the headsail (the girls give us that "I told you so" look).
As the storm moves over us we continue our tack into the wind. At this point we can not see the opening into "Little Harbor" on "Jost VanDyke". The boat is heeling pretty good but it is riding with the waves nicely. This one is no problem. With the approaching squalls we scrap the idea of going to Sandy Cay. Little Harbor is a well protected bay and should be a good place to wait for the storms to pass.
Little Harbor is a small bay which is surrounded by large mountains. Unlike the Bight and Soper's Hole the wind is not funneling down the slopes. We are tied securely to a mooring as we watch more squalls pass to the South & West of us. Cane Garden Bay is getting a good rain storm as we sit in the sunshine.
"Sydney's Peace & Love" is a small open air bar located on the shore at Little Harbor. We had been told me about Sydney's and it is every bit as quaint as it had been described it. The bar is "self-serve", Sydney keeps a book on the bar, if you have a drink you write it in the book, if you have lunch you write it in the book. When you leave the bar you settle up with Sydney. I'd like to see that work in Grand Rapids. It is traditional to leave a T-shirt or other articles of clothing stapled to the ceiling or walls at Sydney's. We found shirts from all over the world! It was fascinating reading.
Robin & I carried on the tradition by leaving a Grand River Sailing Club T-shirt. On the front of the shirt we left the following message:
Once in Great Harbor the fun began! All the German boats were here. We would start to set the anchor an one of the German boats would pull in next to us & set their anchor. As we would maneuver for a new spot someone would beat us to it. Boats were dragging anchor all over the bay. This was really a dumb idea! See what brainkillers can do to sensible people! After several unsuccessful attempts at trying to anchor we head back to quiet Little Harbor. The ride back was a "fun" motor boat trip into the waves as yet another squall approached.
Once back in the tranquillity of Little Harbor the crew of Flying Fish did dinner on the boat complete with a couple of bottles of Gurtwurtraminer (in honor of the Germans). After dinner Robin & I went back to Sydney's to have braids put in our hair. I didn't really think my hair was long enough but somehow she did it! Next we headed to "Harris's" Bar to pay for our mooring. While we were there the girls just had to try some of Mrs. Harris's coconut pie. The boys had to try another Carib!
For a night cap the girls served each of the guys a bottle of "Sea Moss". According to local tradition sea, moss is a love potion. Craig & Dick only had one sip and then gave up on the stuff. I decided that an old man like me needs all the help he can get, I drank the whole bottle! Actually the stuff didn't taste too bad. As for the results -- after a day of painkillers and Carib nothing would help.
Although this harbor is very rustic, I wouldn't miss visiting Sydneys!
The weather today is still unsettled, the high pressure area was supposed to move out today but it is moving very slowly. It seems like oue squall has bearly left before another moves in. This is bad news for sailing but great news for showering on deck. We have been having problems with our pressure water system. Today we are getting no pressure at all. I figure my best solution is to shower on deck. I grab my soap and towel, and wait for the next squall. As luck would have it I get all lathered up and then the rain stops. It was probably a silly sight watching me on deck covered with soap waiting for the next squall. Eventually another rain shower moved over and I got rinsed off.
Many of the locals run small businesses out of their row boats. Last night a local rowed over with his supply of handmade jewelry, today the garbage man showed up in his dinghy. The garbage man is an interesting sort. He claims that he has traveled all over the world and that he has even been in snow. We question his credibility when he says, "Ya Mon, I've been in the snow in the summertime". Somehow snow and summer don't quite mix.
Everyone wants to go to Sandy Cay today. The island used to be owned by the Rockefellers and looks a little like "Gilligan's Island". The winds are still blowing out of the Northeast which causes the surf to be rolling around both ends of the island. We try to set the hook several times but we can't seem to make it hold. Finally we give up and head back to little harbor for lunch.
After a hour or two the conditions improve and we leave Little Harbor for the third time. Again we have a nice downwind sail to Great Harbor. As we approach the harbor we notice that most of the Germans have left. We actually have room to drop the anchor. We drop the hook, let out some scope and she catches on the first try! Today we'll actually get to visit land.
This is another picturesque island complete with white sand beach and palm trees. The girls head for the shops while the guys head for a Carib at Foxy's. On the way, Craig and I are distracted by Foxy's gift shop. He has several great T-shirts that we can't resist. This spot is as much fun as Sydney's. T-shirts are stapled to the ceiling along with bras, boxer shorts, shoes, and even panties. Unfortunately I didn't have another shirt to donate to the collection (a good reason to go back).
Like Quito, Foxy is a local musician who just happens to own a bar. We had hoped to hear Foxy play, sing, and tell stories but he wasn't here today. The bartender tells us that Foxy is in Australia! Must be the bar business is doing well. We stock up on Tee's and try a shot of "Foxy's Firewater Rum". Craig thinks that it tastes like gasoline (this is after he purchased a fifth).
Since there is no entertainment here tonight we go back to the boat and head back to Soper's hole. The forecast is still for fairly high winds and a mooring sounds inviting. Actually, Soper's hole will give us more options for tomorrow's (our last day on the boat) sailing. The wind is blowing from a favorable direction and we are able to broad reach to the cut at the West end of Tortola. As we pull into the harbor we notice that the Germans are here. Oh Boy!
Craig, Dick, and I spend the afternoon exploring the harbor in the dinghy. Near the bridge that connects Frenchman's Cay to Tortola we find an old boatyard. This yard has obviously been here for a long time. They are in the process of restoring several old wooden boats. It is facinating to see the workmanship. This marina also has several boats that are beyond repair and are actually resting on the bottom.
Dinner was on the deck at "Pusser's Landing" followed by a Raggae band. The party was cut short (although we were danced out anyway) by another squall. This was a nice last night on the boat!
It's hard to believe that this is the final day on the boat. During the last week it seemed like time was moving slowly, like the pace of the islands, but now our adventure is almost over! The entire group has worked hard at kicking back and relaxing, in a couple more days it's back to work and the "Great White North".
Everyone is up early to make the most of the day. Our first stop will be Sandy Cay (again).
The sailing is excellent today. Our course through the cut puts us on a beam reach and after clearing West End we are close hauled all the way to Sandy Cay. The anchor is set and actually holds this time. Dick & Jenny do some snorkeling while the rest of us have breakfast. This is a beautiful spot but no one wants to dinghy in and explore the island. It is a pleasure just to lean back and watch the palms sway in the wind.
After an hour we pull up the anchor and prepare for a downwind sail back to the cut at Little Thatch. Our course takes us along Jost VanDyke, we are able to get a great view of Great Harbor and White Bay. We all agree that on our next trip here we'll have to visit the beach at White Bay. The boat reaches the cut in no time at all. After several tacks and a quick motor we are back in the Sir Francis Drake channel.
This end of the Sir Francis is very confused, we are getting waves from three different directions. The water looks like the surface of a boiling pot. We all check out Robin to see if she is looking green but she's doing fine. We are able to make several long tacks and eventually get to smoother water. Our second stop for the day will be the Indians (we'll try again).
Our luck holds out and we get a mooring ball right next to the massive boulders that form the Indians. Everyone puts on their snorkel gear and over the side we go. The surge from the waves is quite strong as it comes between the rocks. On a calm day this would be a spot where you spend several hours snorkeling. Robin & I snorkel together for safety. This is another great spot. The coral here is especially beautiful. We find one particularly good area between the rocks on the northwest end of the formation. Robin signals to me that she would like to go back to boat. It seemed like a long paddle back. Once I had gotten Robin safely aboard, I head back for one last look. Snorkeling down here is really great.
Once everyone is back on the boat we head for our third stop of the day. It is obvious that no one is ready to take the boat back to Nanny Cay. Since the Indians are right next to the Bight we sail into the cove and past the Willy T. The photographers on board shoot a few pictures of the old boat and then we jibe for another downwind sail back to the Drake.
By now we are running out of places to stop and time! Reluctantly we set a course for Nanny Cay. The duties at the helm are switched often, everyone wants one more chance to steer the vessel. This has been one the best sailing days we've had. I was lucky enough to get the final downwind approach to the harbor. It was fitting that the song "A pirate looks at forty" was playing on the CD. As the words "Mother - Mother ocean I have heard you call", rings through the rigging I can see a tear in everyone's eye, including my own. It was a great week of sailing and friendship. It was a dream come true.