The Gallery

The Details: The rock here has a lovely red hue - it's reminiscent of stained glass! Unfortunately this crag is also bloody tiny and chalked to the bejeesus. With only two 23s and one 24, this crag is only worth repeat visits if you're happy spending time on 25+. Also on this point: if there's already several cars parked at the carpark it may be worth considering going elsewhere, because the "easier" routes will probably be occupied for much of the day.

Access: 4hrs drive from Melbourne, 35mins walk. Drive to Buandik campground and follow the trail towards the Billimina art cave. After about 50m you'll cross a bridge and the track forks - head left (R is longer). About 10mins gentle uphill brings you to the quite incredible cave with the art (shame about the fence). Head round R of the cave and pick up a well worn climbers track which takes you more steeply uphill for about 15mins. As it flattens out at the top it heads left between fascinating rock pinnacles (poke around in here and you'll find some incredible bouldering!), for about 150m before heading R into a narrow chasm, with the crag 50m on your R at the far end. The trail is well worn the whole way so you should know if you're off route. Described L to R. Dave bouldering the first moves of Mr Meat (25).

A view of the left half of the Gallery showing just how pockety it is.

** Chain of Fools 15m 23 (PP)
Fallen off the last move more than once... With only 3m of unique climbing this route is basically a Weaveworld-Two Tribes link up. Stick clip the first bolt (unlike me) because it's the technical crux getting to it (21/22-ish), but the redpoint crux is definitely the finish (but only 21ish if you're fresh!). In between it's just pumping up massive buckets.

Me at the crux of Chain of Fools (23). (© Ben Cirulis)

Dan moving up the huge buckets towards the pumpy lip move on Chain of Fools. The chalk on the left is taken by Weaveworld (23).

** Two Tribes 15m 24 (PP) More stylish than CoF and for longer. Shares the same redpoint crux at the finish, but tires you out more getting to it, with some very cool moves up to and past the 4th bolt. Ben starts up Two Tribes (24). (© Ben Cirulis)

Me hangin' round on the start of Two Tribes (it's about the same difficulty to start 1m R).

A view of the right side of the cave, with Kent working Chasin' the Shadow (27). There's a few routes at the far end of the cave (Gorilla Tactics and another one) which go through the "window" at far right ... at which point you can clip the 6th-8th bolts (or so) from the ground (!!) - and will deck if you blow any of those clips! Fricking stupid, close to the least appealing sport routes I've ever seen. Everyone seems to like Gorilla Tactics though...

KP keeps on working those moves on Chasin'.

Dan (left) and KP give a demo of simul-climbing.

Hueco Dreaming 9m 25 (L)
Not a bad way to use up your remaining skin and energy. Easy first clip off massive sharp jugs, then nice steep moves to gain the big sidepull/undercling. The 2nd FH is a bastard to clip, being positioned 2 feet too far left to clip from the good stance when you're happily wedged into the undercling. There is a good sidepull just past it but the stance is far pumpier. Wherever you clip it from take care cause it'd be a grounder while you have slack out. Anyway, power up the obvious sidepulls above, don't expect anything great but they'll do. Then swing high and R to another big sharp jug, clip the 3rd FH off this. The crux finish can be done a number of ways - crank off the jug to the high gaston flake (with or without the intermediate crimp out left), or undercling with your left hand to get your R hand to the flake (using the intermediate crimp for your R hand).

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