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The Pay Lake Method


Pay lakes in the Southern part of the United states are small ponds, usually owned by a private individual, which are set up to fish for prize money. Anglers fish for a specified amount of time and the biggest fish brings in the biggest money. Usually there are betting pools which can add up to $1000 (US) and above. This is serious stuff.

The pay lakes have several rules in common: no chumming, light line is looked down on or forbidden -- 17 pounds is normally the lightest allowed -- and fish have to be returned alive to the water. Fishermen are often shoulder to shoulder which means you have to bring in the fish as fast as possible without tangling other lines. Tangling lines is considered rude behavior and treated accordingly. I'm afraid to ask what that really means.

As a result of these conditions, a specialized technique is used. No weight is needed. The bait is usually a pop-up held to the bottom with a small split shot. The anglers then surround the bait with a concoction (this varies) of rice, Wheaties, corn, corn meal, etc. which binds to the bait, adds weight, and then slowly falls off in the water. The result is a pile of goodies for the carp with a pop-up bait in the middle. Some anglers claim that bait on the hook is not needed as the carp eat with such a frenzy that they inhale the hook and capture themselves. It seems to work as it is an exclusive method on pay lakes these days. Money talks.


Southern Carp Angling

Fishing with Beads


From the American Carp Angler, March-April 1996


By Todd Davis


Most carp anglers in the South are only interested in fishing pay lakes. At a pay lake, anglers are charged a fee and enter money jackpots. These jackpots pay out on an hourly or half-hourly basis to the biggest fish caught in that period.

The majority of pay lakes are nothing more than a mud hole two to five acres in size. Every spring the lake owner buys two to four thousand new fish seined from lakes and rivers up north and brought in by truck. I do not fish these lakes because the fish are not treated well and the lakes are usually muddy and stagnant. There are a few lake operators who care about their fish and try to keep the waters in good condition.

In spite of these conditions (or because of them) a terrific technique for carp angling has evolved from these lakes over the past thirty years: bead fishing. I took this idea to natural lakes and man made reservoirs and have been very successful. For years, I thought bead fishing was the norm, but while discussing it with Bud Yancey, I found out that it was the exception.

I thought that Carp Anglers Group membership might be interested, so here goes!

Beads are any small round object with a hole in the center just big enough (1/4 to 5/16 inch) to fit a hook. You should be able to just slide the bead to the bend of the hook where it will stay.

While bead rigs are sold at pay lakes, most anglers make their own. The color of the bead depends on the bait you use. If you are fishing with white grits, use a white bead, etc.

The baits are used to attract the fish to your hooks and are called pack baits for reasons explained below. The list of ingredients are endless, but they must have one property: they must break down in the water, preferably within two to five minutes. When the bait breaks down the ingredients are spread in a tasty pile near the bead rig(s). The carp begins to try and eat the bait, but since the particles are very small, it will be attracted to the larger bead. Even though the beads have no taste or smell, the carp suck them in hoping they are food. When the fish realizes that the bead is not food, it tries to spit it out and usually hooks itself. Even when the carp successfully ejects the hook, it will come back to it most of the time because the environment is full of good tastes and smells from the pack bait.


Picture of pack bait
Pack Baits and Beads



The baits are the secret to this technique. They must appeal to the fish but not satisfy it. Small particles such as millet and grits should be used, but you are limited only by your imagination. The usual ingredients are grains, meals, flour, syrups, flavorings, etc. Here are a few rules you should follow:

Taste: For the most part bait must have a good taste. If you are not sure, taste it yourself. What ever you like, carp will like. (I let my dog taste it, if my dog will eat the bait, so will carp, ed.)

There is an exception. I have found that baits with corn or oats get better when they sour or ferment. They smell awful, but the carp doesn't think so. The only drawback is that catfish love sour baits too.

Color: Light colored baits are easily seen by the carp and may spark their interest by sight before the fish taste or smell it.

Texture and Consistency: This is probably the most important part, how the bait breaks down in the water. Bait must dissolve or break down so the fish can get to your hook. As you are making the bait, you must test it. Grab a fist full of bait and squeeze it into a ball. It doesn't have to be a cannonball, just a handful is fine. Drop it into a pail of water and time the breakdown. If it is the right consistency, it will do nothing for a minute then it will start to dissolve. Little bubbles will start to come out then the ball of bait will start shedding little particles. In about five minutes there should be a pile of soft ingredients lying in the bottom of your pail. Now you have it right!

To use pack bait grab a handful and place the bead rig in the center. Press the bait into a ball with the rigs in the middle. You don't have to have a perfect sphere, just make sure that the line runs through the center of the bait and that the hook(s) are inside the ball of bait.

If you bait is soft, it may be tricky to cast. If it packs hard (like millet), it will feel like a rock. A handful of bait should weigh one to one and a half ounces. When you cast it, it should stay on the line but come off once it settles on the bottom.

Terminal Tackle: Because of the weight of the bait, you can't use a lot of lead unless your rod can fling large weights. I use 1/ to 3/8 ounce of lead. The less, the better in my opinion.

One major drawback of pack bait is that it is no good in flowing water. The small light baits used in the bait are easily carried off in the water. Also, you should rebait every hour or so in still water as the small fish will scatter the bait. Accurate casting is a must.

Recipes: Here are two of my favorite (and best) recipes. They are very easy to make.

Millet Bait
10 pounds Hulled Millet (unhulled will not work. ed)
4 Cups All Purpose Flour
4 Cups Wheat Bran or Hog Shorts
Two 16 Ounce Bottles Karo Pancake Syrup

Mix dry ingredients in a large tub until thoroughly mixed. Add syrup and mix until well blended. As you combine, the mixture will become very stiff. When well mixed, spread evenly until the bait is about three to four inches thick. Let stand overnight and then place in a bucket or large zip lock bags. Keep sealed when not in use. Will last a year or longer.

Grits Bait
One 18 ounce Box of Instant Grits
One 16 ounce Box of Regular Grits
1 pound of Ground Soybeans
1 pound of Chicken Scratch
One 16 ounce Can of Stokley's Cream Corn
1/3 can of Water
4 tablespoons of Flavoring (your choice, Banana Nut or Butter Nut by Superior Flavorings are my favorites)

Mix dry ingredients, then add liquids. Mix well. Pack a ball and test it in water. As this bait sets, it will dry out. If too dry, it will not pack well, so add water. If too wet it won't flake off, if too dry it won't cast well.

While these baits were intended to be used with beads, I have found that they work with boilies and corn on a hair rig. Just pack the bait around the hair rig and you are ready to go.

I have fished for carp for more than twenty years and for most of that time did not know that angling for carp was so popular all over the world. Since discovering and joining the Carp Anglers Group, I can't believe there are so many others who enjoy carp fishing as I do. I am so glad to be a part of the club and this sport.

Todd Davis
200 Marlboro Court
Chesnee, SC 29323
Copyright © 1995 Todd Davis


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