RPs BIONADE Team Wins Silver at Asian Climbing Championship
Marvin Ilanan of the Philippine BIONADE Sportclimbing Team won 2nd place in the newly opened category of the 7th Asian Sportclimbing Championship at the National College of PE and Sports, Taoyuan, Taiwan held last December 19 & 20. Ilanan surpassed 23 other competitors from Korea, Singapore, Malaysia, Taipei, Hong Kong and India with a best time of 38.52 sec up a 50 foot overhanging climbing route. He failed to climb faster than only one, Indonesias Ronald Mamarimbing (Asian X-Games rank 2 in this category.)
The competition consisted of two 50-foot high routes that the climbers would climb one after the other with a 1-minute rest in between. The first round saw RPs Erwin Gozum clocking the 4th best qualifying time for the round, thus bringing two RP BIONADE Climbers into the quarterfinals. Gozum was seeded according to time against Singapores Mohd Halil Ngah but failed to make the next round. Ilanan on the other hand successfully out climbed Koreas Myong Hak Kim to land in the final round. According to Ilanan, Speed Climbing requires a mix of explosive power and quick aerobic recovery. Fighting shortness of breath in the short recovery between climbs and the "wiring" (internalizing) of the route were key factors to his good performance. "Yung ibang competitors nasusuka pagkatapos umakyat sa kulang ng oxygen sa utak pagkatapos ng round. Hindi kami handa sa ganitong laban, kaya yung training nalang namin sa Power Up yung nagdala," says Ilanan.
Coach Joey Cuerdo believes that "our early win in Speed Climbing shows that our climbing style makes us potential leaders in this category event. Height may be an advantage but can be made up for with a high strength-to-weight ratio, high psyche arousal and keen focus on the climb." Team Official Marla Cuerdo was introduced to International Council for Competition Climbing (ICCC) Vice President Alexander Piratinsky from Russia, who also heads the UIAA World Speed Climbing Competitions. It was mentioned that the Philippines is considered to be a key player in Asian Speed Climbing.
The Womens Team of the BIONADE Sport Climbing Team did not do as well in the Speed Category but showed exceptional skill and climbing intensity in their bid in the Difficulty Category. Veteran climber Binky de Leon landed at the 13th place followed by rookie Nana Araneta at rank 14. The two were part of the 17 women who "topped out" or completed the route in a total field of 31 women, from 7 Asian countries. This was the first time for any womens Philippine Team member to advance into the final round in the Asian Championships Difficulty Climbing Category.
The finals for the women saw the Philippines displaying the greatest intensity, braving runouts and 30 foot falls to reach the higher point. Efforts were well rewarded as the ladies bested rivals from Singapore, HongKong, Korea and Taiwan. "Compared to our results in the Asian Championships in 1996, we have caught up and achieved the ranks we have been eyeing. Our best rank then was in the 20s, with so many countries ahead of us. Now they are trying to catch up to us. But our goal is still Indonesia, and I guess this constant drive for a higher goal is the secret to our rapid improvement. From constantly asking what they do for training, now they are asking us!" according to Coach Joey Cuerdo.
The final ranks of the BIONADE Sport Climbing Team in Speed are as follows:
Men Marvin "Gax" Ilanan Rank 2
Erwin Gozum Rank 7
Geronimo Ulanday Rank 14
Total number of competitors 25
Lissa Lesaca Rank 11
Marie Eloisa de Leon Rank 13
Total number of competitors 19
The final ranks of the BIONADE Sport Climbing Team in Difficulty follows:
Men Marvin Ilanan Rank 23
Simon Sandoval Rank 25
Erwin Gozum Rank 32
Geronimo Ulanday Rank 33
Total number of competitors 41
Marie Eloisa de Leon Rank 13
Anna Christina Araneta Rank 14
Mylene Palacios Rank 21
Lissa Lesaca Rank 23
Total number of competitors 31
The BIONADE Sport Climbing Team was sponsored by BIONADE Mineral Drink, POWER UP Center for Climbing & Fitness, HABAGAT Outdoor Equipment and MOJO Sandals.
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Last Modified: 26 January 1999.