Access to this wall is by climbing down
the short bridge by the walkway - Going towards the
Sanctuary area, just before Romancing the Stone (see
Walkway p. ), look for a cave on the right side and a
small concrete bridge. Scramble down from here to the
river. Try your best to disregard the pungent smell which
reminds you of bus terminal comfort rooms. This crag gets wind from the river and is in the shade all day. 68. Cloaking Device * (5.10- / 6a, 35 feet, small to medium nuts, FA Sandoval 12/97 ) Cling on , fun climb. 69. Funky Shit* (5.11+ / 6c, 30 feet, 2 bolts, 1 short sling; FA Ilanan 12/97) Make the thread below the first bolt as short as possible to avoid grounding out if you miss the first clip. Limbo the exit bulge. Quite difficult. |
Gax dropping his knee before getting Funky Shit, Klingon Wall. Photo: Tan-Torres
Heading towards Wawa Dam from the parking lot, this walkway is on the right side of the gorge and seems to have been carved out of the rock.
64.Spearhead (5.3 / 2, 40 feet; FA Narciso, 1993)
65.Romancing the Stone * (5.11+ / 6c+, 35 ft, slings; FA Ilanan 1997 ) Strenuous roof route, no rain. Easily protected with threads. This route is just before a man-made arch and ends in a ledge to the left of the arch. The exit to the ledge is the crux. Pro before the crux is a #3 Camalot or run it out to the next thread. The cam placement has popped out before resulting in a "ground floor" fall.
66.Jeans (5.7 / 4, 25 feet; FA Tan-Torres, 1/93) Roof route right after the arch; big holds. Some seepage during rainy season. Easily protected with threads.
67.Unnamed (5.3 / 2, 70 feet, FA Jaravata, 1992)
Visiting Hong Kong climber Hing hanging out on Romancing the Stone. Photo: Gilson Chu
Last Modified : 09 February 1999.