| Monks in champagne Mercedes September 1, 2001 Admittedly, leaving China after six weeks was reason for celebration in itself, but even when that wore off, I have been very happy in Laos for two weeks now. After a very sweet good-bye with a Chinese guard at the border ("Did you like China?" he asked hopefully, and all nightmares, arguments, and tantrums flew out the window as I replied enthusiastically, "I loved China!"), it was immediately apparent that I was in south-east Asia! Palm trees, coconut trees, banana trees...prehistoric-type bugs so big they knock you off your feet, heat that HAS knocked me off my feet... My first cultural lesson about Laos was that of transportation, and what a great adventure it was! Big trucks with benches in the back leave when they reach capacity- our understanding of "capacity" and that of the Lao are universes apart, I assure you! Passing through all sorts of rural villages was a real eye-opener...Laos is one of the poorest countries in the world (although tourism is beginning to help out, ten years after the country has been opened to foreigners), and I saw the effects. The doors of bamboo huts fell open at the sound of a truck and dozens of people would spill out of the tiny shacks, adults to see if there were any deliveries for them, and children to wave and shout "Sabadee!" to everyone on board, which means both Hello and Goodbye. I saw people bathing in the Mekong River (and still shudder at the thought, as I've been told not to eat the fish here!) and we once had to wait for a working elephant to cross the road in front of us. I spent about five days in Luang Prubang, which was an incredible little gem of a town. My time there involved enjoying the colonial architecture (the differences in living accommodations here is astounding...a colonial mansioncan be yours for the ripe sum of $6000 US...any takers?), enjoying more the incredible food, and not dying from malaria. The heat during my first four days in Laos really knocked me on my ass...all I could do was sweat, vomit, and sleep. It was only at the joke, "Wouldn't it be funny if I had malaria?", that my good friend and saviour, Roel, a great introspective, articulate sort from Holland, slapped me on his malaria treatment, and all was well in two more days. And off to Vientiane, the capital! More amazing architecture, thanks to those French colonizing bums, and great dinner every night on the bank of the Mekong River, which has also been host to some incredible sunsets. I'm spending my time in a fabulous little bamboo hut, at the princely sum of $2.50, and after more sound advice from Roel- "Don't think of the rats as big mice, think of them as small monkeys!"- I'm very happy. Last night I watched a water buffalo enjoy a soak in the Mekong while I enjoyed a BeerLao (ever heard of it? Today in a menu it was referred to as "the world fmaous BeerLao"...) on the banks. Laos has been a most pleasant surprise. I didn't know a thing about it when I arrived (not to say that I know anything about it now-), but I haven't had a bad experience here yet! The people are really very sweet and incredibly laid back. I really can't emphasize that enough. People just sleep in their stores until someone comes in. Actually, to be specific, they don't wake up until you work pretty hard to wake them up! The monks are really friendly, and very 21st century, chatting on cell phones, riding in Mercedes (a true story) and emailing up a storm! I gave my address to a young tattooed monk just yesterday who hopes to improve his English. They are very gentle people who enjoy the silence, which is a treat after China. There are signs posted forbidding horns, and...in the biggest statement of them all...karaoke is ILLEGAL in Laos. (Not to say there aren't underground karaoke scenes here, but those people are playing with fire!) To finish, I celebrated my 28th birthday a few days ago! Highlights included an hour masssage ($2 thank you very much) and red wine at dinner with a dog named Jimmy Carter. Don't ask me. back to pictures home |