conk n. a person's head, body, or other part that can be royally split, creased, or abused.

conkcase n. a Suitcase designed for the sole purpose and intent of splitting conks.

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I decided to move all my joystick info to one page...right here.

I typed up a FAQ on how I used DB25 connectors to build an arcade joystick for my console systems (Playstation 2, Dreamcast, and Saturn). Essentially, before I used the DB25 connectors I could only have 1 controller PCB wired up at one time otherwise only 1 would work (my original plan was to have a 3-way joystick...DC/Saturn/Ps-Ps2). If you want to build a "more than 1 system" joystick, follow my FAQ here and use DB25 connectors. It's easy and it also helps keep the wires nice and neat and in order instead of laying around everywhere on the inside of your case.

Follow the guide at the following site for most of your info:

http://wrongcrowd.com/~arcade

After you're done with the general construction of your joystick/case, follow my FAQ on the DB25 connector method here (at least if you want to make a multi-system joystick) It will help you a whole lot, especially it will help you avoid the aggravation I've had to go through in trying to get the Suitcase to work in a multi-system environment. Learn from my mistakes. ;^)

Wondering what my marvel of design and creativity...and conk splitting...the Suitcase - looks like? Well I finally got good digital camera pictures of it. (see following)

This is my baby...this is the Suitcase. The original box was made up of MDF (multi-density fiber) which is a stronger grade wood than particle board, and also a much nicer wood. I spraypainted the entire case black, but unfortunately the spraypaint job had a few blotches here and there, which show up but it doesn't bother me. My original plan was to put a piece of Lexan (a plexiglass-like hard plastic) over the top of the Suitcase, but in an effort to get it done quicker I scrapped that idea. I think in the future I will put a sheet of Lexan on here though; the spraypaint is sorta wearing off at the very bottom due to wrists resting on it and moving, etc. I put 2 hinges on the bottom, so the Suitcase opens up (pulls towards you) and there's a latch at the top to keep it shut yet allow it to be opened in a cinch. Yes, that's a handle you see at the top...hence the name Suitcase. Unconkable!!! (Shaun) is the one who came up with the name, because with the handle - when you carry it, it looks like I'm carrying around a suitcase. ;^)

 

The Suitcase...opened...joystick/button portion. All the actual connections are done with the red wire; grounds are black. I didn't plan on that, it just happened that I ran out of wire and got black wire when I had to do the ground. It does help though because I know which is which. All the microswitches are connected by slide-on/spade terminals, which make this an easy method in removing/switching a button or joystick if it were to break. Simply slide off the connectors, take out the button, put another one in, and reconnect. Back to MvC2. ;^) It may look like a mess of wires, but it's more simple than you'd think.

 

Bottom portion of the Suitcase...opened. I just recently got a Sega brand Saturn pad off my friend Tyrone, wired it up and can now use it with the Suitcase. When I took these pictures, the Saturn portion was not working, so that's why you only see 2 PCB's in there. ;^)

Anyway, you'll see a Dreamcast pad in there (a MadCatz DreamPad), with a Nyko 2x VMU I got for free (which has worked perfectly so far, might I add), and a Playstation pad in there (I believe it was a Performance pad I got from Funcoland for like $5) which I have to let me use the Suitcase in Tekken Tag and whatever other Ps2 fighters are on the way. The big silver connectors (see below for more info) are DB25 connectors housed in little cases/housing...making the Suitcase plug-and-play, sorta.

 

A closeup of the DC pad to show you how it's wired and/or how you have to solder (how intricately) to make a Suitcase/Conkcase like this yourself. Not as easy as it looks, but then again not as hard either. (sorry the image didn't come up clear like the others)

 

This is a DB25 connector, side view. I took it out of the housing that they sit in, just to show how they work and what they look like. What you do is you take a wire, place it in a female end of a pin connector (included), and then crimp it together so the wire stays. Then you push it through the "block" here, and the pin itself sticks through on the other side. (see below) There are 25 holes altogether, hence the name DB25 connector. However, for the Suitcase, I only had to use 15 total, just for the Playstation pad. 4 d-pad directions, 8 attack buttons (face + shoulder buttons), Start and Select, and the 1 ground. Dreamcast pad required 12 total, for the 4 d-pad directions, 6 attack buttons, Start, and the 1 ground. On the joystick end (connecting to the joystick/buttons) I have wired up a female DB25 connector; the DB25 connectors that go to the controller PCB's are male.

 

Side view of the DB25 connector (male).