 Gloucestershire, England Ken Gowey July 15-17, 1999 While on a business trip to Birmingham, UK, I had the opportunity to revisit an area I'd passed through some 10 years earlier while on honeymoon with my wife Ana. July promised decent weather and offered the chance to do some cycling in the northern area of the Cotswolds. I wasn't disappointed on both counts. 
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The Square, Moreton-in-Marsh
There are some 6 pubs in Moreton-in-Marsh, but only three that had real cask conditioned ale and did NOT have that smoke-choked, "Farmer Palmer" atmosphere. Top on my list was The Bell Inn, which also does B & B. The owner has created a very nice little beer garden out back as well. Rumor had it that the place is haunted by a hugging ghost... The only hugging that went on was with my pint glass I'm afraid.
The other two pubs I frequented were the Inn on the Marsh (no pic), which had excellent food including good Indonesian food cooked by the proprieter's Dutch wife, and the White Hart Royal (er, the "White Tart Royal" as one patron put it), which had a friendly staff.
After a decent night's rest, I rented a bike at the train station in Moreton and rode the 18 miles down the A429 to Bourton-on-the-Water.... which was pleasant enough in appearance, but was a nightmare of buses, souvenir shops and screaming children. The only solace I found was to walk a few blocks away from the river (more like a "brook"), where I snapped the photo on the right.
On the way, I passed through Stow-on-the-Wold about 4 or 5 miles north. While horridly staid, boring and low-key, it is the highest town in the Cotswolds and has some merits as a vantage point. To be fair, it is also a bit too picturesque for it's own good. Had a decent pub lunch in town overlooking the south end of the town.
Day 2 - Upper and Lower Slaughters
After leaving the tour busses, ice-cream shops, and field-trip-kids of Bourton behind, I made my way east through some of the smaller villages (known as the Upper and Lower Slaughters). There wasn't a whole lot going on in each of these towns - they seem more like live-in museums that one passes through - and I think the attraction lies more in the rustic style of the houses than anything else. It did however, make for a nice, quiet leisurely ride through some great pastoral landscapes. Lest I forget why I took this route?
Day 3, Chipping Campden
Ten years ago, Ana and I stayed in Broadway, Gloucestershire, and hiked over the hill to Chipping Campden on what was an idyllic and memorable day for us. So on my final day in the Cotswolds, I decided to cycle over from Moreton. The ride proved to be much easier than that of the previous day, and on much smaller country roads. This made all the difference in terms of traffic and thus, enjoyment. Of course, there were more than a few tourists in Chipping Campden itself, but I was able to avoid them by spending a limited amount of time in the town center.
Day 3, Volunteer Inn, Chipping Campden
Small pub (left) just beyond the crush of the town center, and the only one not overrun by tourists. Had a great Ploughman's lunch and well-conditioned pint of Flower's before heading out on my way.
Day 3, The Baker's Arms, Broad Campden
Stopped into this small pub by the side of the road for a quick "refreshment." The only sound was from the bleating sheep in the field across the road. Talk about "pastoral!"
Day 3, Hill overlooking Gloucestershire
On my way out of Broad Campden, I pedalled up what was to be the most er, "difficult" hill of the day. There was a bench at the top for, what I assume, was "cyclist's repose" after such strenous effort.
Day 3 (conclusion)
Invariably, one is occasionally treated to an unexpected and pleasant surprise in the course of aimless wandering. This day, that "surprise" would come in the form of the small town of Blockley, located between Chipping Campden and Moreton-in-Marsh. This being the last stop on my ride before heading back to Moreton, I gladly stopped at the Crown pub on the main road through town to have a pint and enjoy the rest lounging at one of the outside tables (where the photo on the right was taken). Seated at the table next to me was a large gathering of rather jovial folks also enjoying their Sunday. After about a half hour, they took pity on me, and I was asked to join them for what turned out to be a very long afternoon of chat, jokes, insults, and "taking the piss" out of the hapless Yank who'd wandered into their village. In fact, it was nearly 9:00 p.m. before one of them graciously tossed my bike in the back of her car and drove me back (at breakneck speed) to Moreton. (Perhaps out of exasperation?) Either way, it saved me from becoming roadkill on the way home.
These folks certainly made my afternoon a most enjoyable one and the next time I'm in the area, I most definitely will stop in.
Check out their local-yokal website, The Blockley Blower.
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