Stephen Beck's Autograph Page

Preservation of your Collection

It is extremely important to follow these rules when handling and storing autographs:

  • Take extreme care when handling autographs. For instance, make sure that you have clean hands, and pick up signed cards by the edges only.

  • Do not alter autographs in any way. Do not paste, tape, fold, cut, staple, laminate, or otherwise mutilate the paper on which an autograph has been signed. All these things damage the autograph to make it less desirable to collectors.

  • Do not expose autographs to direct sunlight or flourescent lighting. This will cause the ink of most autographs to fade and will help break down paper.

  • If framing an autograph, ensure that archival acid-free matting is used, and ask for glass with ultraviolet protection. This will slow down destruction of the autograph. However, even UV glass will not fully prevent photos and signatures from fading if exposed to direct light sources, so hang your items in dark areas. Never frame your important items. Note: I recommend instead that you photocopy your autograph on a color photocopier and frame the copy instead. It is extremely difficult to tell the difference once framed.

  • Do not try to restore an autograph that has been damaged. Expert collectors can always tell if an autograph has been altered. Repair of an autograph is best left to a professional and even then should only be performed in certain circumstances

  • Try to keep the humidity and temperature low. Humidity and heat will promote the growth of damaging types of fungus (also known as “foxing”) on paper

  • Always unfold documents. If a document is folded it will eventually break along the folds.

    Here is an excellent summary of document preservation, written by UACC President Bob Erickson from the Sept-Oct 1998 issue of the Pen and Quill(reproduced with permission):

  • Keep your collection in a cool, dry place. Heat and humidity contribute to the destruction of paper, especially paper containing acid from wood pulp. Light fades many inks (especially felt-tip) and browns the paper.

  • Do not store autographs in a fireproof safe. The humidity level in the safe is high in order to protect documents in a fire. Unfortunately, that level is too high, and it will eventually damage your autographs.

  • Store autographs only in "Mylar D" polyester or cellulose acetate folders, and put them in an archival acid-free box. Never use polyvinylchloride (PVC) folders. They can be identified by their strong "plastic" odor. Use only acid-free paper inserts; the black paper inserts included with some sheet protectors are highly acidic and will destroy your autographs. Note: two major companies that sell archival materials are the Archival Company (a division of University Products, Inc), PO Box 1239, Northampton MA 01061-1239 (1-800-442-7576); and Light Impressions.

  • Avoid repairing paper with cellophane ("Scotch") or masking tape. The adhesive will damage and eventually destroy the paper. If a repair is necessary, use only archival paper mending tissue. Better yet, seek expert help.

  • Remove paper clips and staples from multi-page documents because they cause rust stains.

  • You can usually remove old paper documents glued down to album pages by soaking them in lukewarm water, but don't use this method on vellum or parchment documents, documents written in aniline blue ink, or modern documents.

  • Avoid framing valuable autographs. But if you insist on framing an autograph, use only acid-free matting materials and UF3 Plexiglas or museum glass. The autograph should never be pasted or taped down in any way. Mylar "D" or other acid-free mounting corners should be used to keep the item from shifting in the frame. Display them away from direct sunlight, fluorescent lighting, and sources of heat (such as radiators).

    Even if you observe the above precautions, your collection is still vulnerable to other risks, such as theft, fire, storms, and other acts of God. Your homeowner's insurance sets a special limit (usually $1000) on the amount it will pay for a loss involving manuscripts. However you can increase this limit by getting a "fine arts rider." Invoices or an appraisal are generally required to set the value of the items insured under a fine arts rider. If you have a valuable collection, but don't have a fine arts riders, run--don't walk--to your insurance agent to amend your policy.

    See also the Preservation Frequently Asked Questions from the National Archives.

    This page, and all contents, are Copyright © 1997, 1998 by Stephen Beck.

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