Integra Modifications

I've had my Integra since Dec 5, 1997. Since the purchase of it, I've slowly added and deleted items from it to get it to where it is today. Based off local, regional and National autox events it is currently the fastest autox Integra in the country as far as I know. In Arizona, the car (and me!) is capable of pulling the fastest time of day out of ALL cars at the local events.

Engine & Transmission

2.0L GSR block: The stock GSR block was resleeved with 85mm Golden Eagle cylinder sleeves. It has Endyn "low dome" pistons running 12:1 CR, Eagle rods, balanced factory LS crank and an OEM GSR girdle. OEM Honda bearings with a .0028" piston to wall clearance. On a Dynopack it put down 225whp and 169 ft/lbs which is estimated to be 240whp / 180wtq on a Dynojet.
Integra Type-R head & Intake Manifold: I purchased this from Naples Acura in FL brand new along with the matching Type-R intake manifold. It's been modified by Endyn with their flat back racing valves, complete valvetrain as well as combustion chamber and minor port work.
Endyn Bumpstix Camshafts: I previously ran Jun 3's but after running these cams, they blow them away. The midrange is absolutely incredible and they have almost no difference in the top end. On average I picked up 20-30 hp over the Jun 3's in the midrange.
JG Throttle Body: This is just a bored out stock unit which is now 64mm vs 60mm.
ARP Head Studs: Much stronger than stock and reuseable!
AEM Cold Air Intake: Not much else to say about it besides it works good.
KTeller 3" Catback Exhaust System: I bought this from KTeller online. It's not a bot on kit but all the piping was prebent which made installation much easier. This exhaust make the car out of control loud. For the very minimal gains on a NA setup (no matter how radical), I would not recommend a 3" system to non-turbo user.
Distributor: This really isn't a performance mod, but since it's not OEM for my car, I figured I'd list it. This is a distributor from a 92-93 GSR (B17 - I believe DOHC Del Sol VTEC is the same/B16A). The reason this was done was because I needed a distributor and it fit. But the advantage is the 92 Accord distributor cap fits perfectly on it. Why an Accord one? Well on the Accord it has an external coil post. I no longer had an MSD on my car but if you do, you won't have to modify or drill your stock cap. Pretty slick eh? here is a picture. Update: Another nice thing about this distributor is the ignitor and coil are a LOT cheaper than a GSR ($90 vs $250+).
ACT Clutch: I have the extreme pressure plate and 6 puck unsprung disc. It's got lots of grip/grab but I'm not a fan of this clutch disc. I prefer the street/strip organic disc that I've used in the past. Even though I don't do much street driving with the car, it's much nicer driving to and from the track as well as backing out of my garage, etc.
DC 4-1 JDM: For the price you can't beat this header. This also goes against the myth that 4-1 make top end power at a reduction in low and midrange power. With my setup, this header did everything better over my old 4-2-1 RSR unit.
Straight "Racing" Pipe: In my autox class (Street Modified) you no longer need to run a cat, so I don't. I couldn't really feel a difference in power and it's not any louder than with a cat but in theory this should boost power slightly.
Hondata S200: A very nice system. My only advise is to simply make sure you have a programable system, make sure you get it tuned on a load controling dyno by someone who knows what they're doing.
Mueller Flywheel: This company is no longer around but it's served me very well for many trouble free years. It's an 8 lb aluminum flywheel with a metal friction surface and ring gear. The stock flywheel weights approximately 18 lbs so it really made a difference in how fast the car revs up. I didn't have any problems adjusting to it as far as taking off from a dead stop either. I would highly recommend a lightened flywheel for any car.
Quaife LSD: When the price for this part dropped from $1200 to $900 I couldn't afford NOT to buy one! :-) This really helps put the power to both wheels. Helps out a lot powering out of turns on the autox courses. Didn't really notice a difference on the street except for making 90 turns from a standing start or slow rolling start. UPDATE: The Quaife is durable as hell and very streetable but I feel there are better units out there for all out racing such as the ATS D20
99 Civic Si Transmission Gearing: These are the same gears used in the Type-R transmission. Since I wanted to obviously keep my Quaife differential I just swapped in a set of B16A gears in my GSR housing. The closer gears helps keep the motor in the power band but it's definitely a spinner on the freeway.
Endyn Breather Tank: This kit replaces the stock PCV system and supposedly reduces internal crankcase pressure and/or oil consumption that DOHC VTEC engines seem to be plagued with. It helps, but I'm convinced that ALL VTEC motors burn oil prematurely when driven hard in VTEC a lot.
B&M Fuel Pressure Riser: With a good ECU system like a Hondata, I think this mod is unnecessary. I bought this a long time ago before I become more wise.
Big Ass Bosch Fuel Pump: What a bitch to install this thing in the stock location! Required lots of modification to the bracket but I think it was worth it for a little fuel insurance.
550cc RC Engineering Fuel Injectors: I'm pretty sure my stock units wouldn't be able to keep up with my current fuel requirements without running insane fuel pressue. I originally had 310cc injectors but came across a good deal on these and since larger injectors do not seem to make a difference in drivability I figure they would be a lifetime investment since I don't plan on making THAT much more power.

Brakes

11" Front Brake Upgrade: 11" Prelude VTEC rotors redrilled to 4x100mm bolt patern. Accord calipers grinded down slightly to fit the offset of the rotors.
10.2" Rear Brake Upgrade: Secret setup. I promised I wouldn't tell so don't ask. The bottom line is they work better than stock and my car now has essentially the same brakes as a Type-R.
Carbotech Panter Pads: These work REALLY good cold and hot but are pretty noisey and wear out quickly. Additionally they dust like crazy and eat your rotors quickly. But man do they work good and worth the tradeoffs IMO!
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake lines: These greatly improved the feel of my brakes. I was expecting a solid feeling brake pedal but they don't quite provide that on the street for some reason. When you notice it is when you're at the track and you're really hammering on the pedal.
Motol 600 Brake Fluid: This stuff boasts a dry boiling point of 585 deg. So far no complaints. UPDATE: Now I just run Valvoline synthetic DOT 3 fluid. I don't do a lot of open track racing so the expensive stuff really isn't necessary.
Speedbleeders: These work great for bleeding brakes when a friend isn't near by. Go to their website and get a set! www.speedbleeder.com
Brake Vacuum Reserve Booster: The Jun 3's don't have crap for vacuum due to their extreme overlap so the brake booster works like crap! I added this vacuum reserve tank and now they work great!

Suspension

15" Kodiak Race Wheels: These are a custom built 15x8.5" (inside edge - 9.25" wide outside edge to outside edge) and BARELY fit on the car. The fronts rub slightly on the inside knuckles even after grinding them down a little so I've added spacers for the front and they just barely clear the outside fenders. The rear I modified the trailing arms but cutting out about a 1.5" notch and then welded back in bracing. They just barely clear the outside fenders as well which are cut and grinded down (since rolling them didn't provide enough clearance. I run 225/45-15 Hoosier A3S04's and the car looks MEAN!
Skunk 2 Extended Wheel Studs: When I got my Kodiak wheels the stock studs barely poked thru the wheel holes so for safety I got these. They look pretty ridiculous on the street with my street wheels but look really mean on with the Kodiak wheels. Talk about a lot of grinding to the knuckles and a bitch to install them in the front! Function or form...
17" Hart Tracer Wheels: These are really just to get to me to and from the track. I got them for a really good deal and they actually have chromed outside lips so the car has a little "bling" which is kinda cool. They're currently wrapped with Yokohama A520's in a 205/40-17 size.
Ground Control Coilovers: Poor man's coilovers but man do they work look with my revalved Koni shocks! I run 7" springs in the front and rear. The fronts are 600 lbs and the rears are 500 lbs.
Koni Single Adjustable Shocks: Revalved by Koni for more low speed compression and tons more rebound dampening. They seems to work great with the combination currently on my car.
Racers Image Front & Rear Strut Braces: Well there's not to much to say here. It's kinda shinny and it's, well... a strut bar! I really didn't notice a performance difference or the car being any stiffer, but they look pretty cool and in theory they're making things stiffer.
Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings: I have the full blown kit. All suspension pieces including the sway bar frame bushings, shifter stabilizer, and steering rack bushing. This is a LOT of labor with not much gain in performance if your stock bushings are still in new/good condition. IMO, ride quality and noise level were unaffected to any noticable degree.
Type-R Rear Sway Bar: All I can say about this is for under $100, GET IT! It takes a little custom fabrication to get it to work on a non-Type R but it works great! When I did the fabrication on the mounting of the frame brackets/bushings I mounted them as wide as possible so this is actually stiffer than your typical 22mm rear bar.
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts: These really firm up the engine mounts. If your car doesn't currently rattle, install these and then it will! :-)
Neuspeed Lower Rear Tie Bar: Didn't really notice a difference in handling but it looks cool. There does seem to be reduced squeaks and creaks in the hatch area when entering driveways sideways so it stiffened something up back there.
Skunk 2 Adjustable Front Control Arms: A must have for any serious racer. Too many people don't tune the alignment which is critical for performance. These arms give you that adjustablity that Honda forgot to give you from the factory. I run about 3 degrees negative in the front with zero toe.
Ingals Rear Camber Kit: Another must have. If you have a setup that is "close" you can easily dial in how the car handles by adjusting the rear camber. I run around 2-2.5 degree negative in the rear with zero toe depending on conditions.

Interior/Exterior

Carbon Fiber Hood: Not sure on the brand of this unit as I bought it used. It's got a fiberglass shell/supports and a CF top. It's weights about half the weight of the stock unit, around 15 lbs.
Deleted Moonroof: The factory moonroof weighs approximately 32 lbs. I replaced it with a fiberglass insert that I fabricated. I mounted it, did some bodywork and repainted the entire roof. All said and done the replacement weights around 5-6 lbs.
Window tint: This didn't cost me anthing because it was already on the car when I bought it.
Custom clear bumper lenses: This only cost me $1 to do (the cost of a tube of clear silicon). Read my how 2 on this here.
Custom bumper: This cost me $200 to shave the license holes, emblem, and "Integra" wording from the front bumper. Also I had that middle bar cut out and smoothed on the edges before repainting. I then added some wire mesh to give it a custom/racy look.
Shift knob: I hate the factory GSR knob cuz I think it looks silly and it's too tall. I actually run a knob from a 92 Honda Accord on my car! :-)
Pedals: These cost $30 from NOPI. They are decent, not brand name or anything but still just as good looking. I positioned the brake pedal so it's really close to the gas. I also put a bunch of washers under it so that when the brakes are on fully it's the same height as the gas pedal making it much easier to heal and toe.
Custom short shifter: This shifter is extremely stiff and has a very short throw. You barely have to move it to change gears and it does take some time to get used to. I also angled the rod and knob so it's closer to me (the driver). "Little Robert" charged me $10 for his welding expertise.
Gauges: In my center console where the ash try, cigarette lighter, and cup holder used to be I made a replacement face plate and mounted some gauges. I have an oil pressure, voltage, and A/F ratio gauge. They're quite entertaining to watch!
Sparco "Corsa" Race Seat: This seat is extremely supportive. Even without a seatbelt or harness I stay put in my seat around turns. I wouldn't mind it having a little more room for my legs as the seat does tend to be a little too tight for them after driving around for a while. However I think it's perfect for the track as it keeps my legs from flopping around and banging on the center console. Click here for a picture.
Sparco "Lap" Steering Wheel: This steering wheel is slightly smaller diameter than stock. It's all suede too so grip actually increases as my hands get sweatier. Grip as also increased while wearing gloves. The downside is I have lost my cruise control until I relocate the control buttons. Click here for a picture.
Simpson Cam Lock 6 point harness: This harness was definitely a mod I would recommend if you do any performance or competition driving. When worn properly it clamps you into your seat like a vice. The cam lock system makes connecting the belts a lot easier than the standard latch system. It also releases all five points with one easy pull of a latch. Click here for a picture
Autometer 5" Monster Tach: This is mounted in the middle of my dash for the easiest viewing. I believe this is the best place to mount a tach but the downside is you need to drill into your dash. Click here for a picture.
Relocated Battery: To optimize weight distribution and to clean up the engine bay I relocated the battery to the back of the car. To keep this modification legal and to provide additional safety I added a cut off switch at the back of the car mounted where the trunk key hole used to be. Click here for a picture of the battery case.
Lightweight Battery: 12 lbs unit. Seal gel cell technology so it can be mounted in any orientation. I've got mine currently mounted sideways to lower the center of gravity slightly.