A dirty old emperor gets a quick peep of his latest concubine being prepared to be presented in his chambers.
 
 
 

Yeh Jen Gu, or Wild People Valley, is probably as close as you can get to a stroll around the garden of one of ancient China's emperors without going to the mainland. Ornate pagodas dot the hillside, traditional Chinese dwellings overlook the garden, and a single-arched bridge with embossed golden dragons spans the garden's lake.

But despite its charms, it is Yeh Jen Gu's waterfalls which draw visitors today. Five waterfalls, with the most spectacular plunging 150 feet, cascade through the garden, fed by the upper reaches of Keelung River which dissects Yeh Jen Gu.

The river creates a pool in the middle of the garden and visitors can hire a rowing boat and potter around the lake. For the more energetic, there are dozens of jungle gyms built upon the hillside, including a rope slide across the river, and some kiddies rides such as a mini-roller coaster and bumper boats.

Some of the jungle gyms -- while seemingly simple -- challenge even the nimble. By the time I reached the halfway point on one of them, a mob of kids were shouting at me to get a move on. Even the rotten wooden runners under my feet seemed to be groaning at my trepidation. "Should I jump off and let the mob pass -- and loose any face I had left?" I thought. "Like hell I'll jump off. I was here first," and I clambered to the end.

Leaving the rest of the wooden traps alone, I followed the river downstream and arrived at an open field used as an archery range. As the field was waterlogged when I was there, the range was closed thanks to the dreadful weather that day. 

The weather never seams to dampen Taiwan's barbecuers' enthusiasm for a barbe' though, and barbecuers were busy fanning the flames at a barbecue area complete with brick stoves and grills next to the babbling river. If the rain gets too heavy, a section of the barbecue area covered with an awning, allows you to barbecue whatever the weather.

If you don't want all the hassle of hauling charcoal and chicken legs around just to eat lunch, there is a restaurant on the first floor of the garden's hotel serving various Chinese dishes at slightly marked-up prices.

Plodding up the stone steps though the pine trees back towards the entrance there is a Chinese-style inn which houses a mini-wax museum with displays of well-know mythical Chinese characters, including Magic Monkey and his gang fighting of demons. There are also displays of how ancient China's elite lived, depicted by a purple-faced tax collector chopping the head off a tax evader, and as a randy emperor peeping upon his latest concubine bathing.

A souvenir stall on the first floor of the inn sells snacks and trinkets to remind you of your visit. After taking in the garden, you should visit "Ten-score Waterfalls" just next to Wild People Valley, which -- as the name implies -- is also famous for its waterfalls. While the waterfalls there are undoubtably more spectacular than those at Yeh Jen Gu, the place is very well known and consequently crawling with visitors. But if you've never been there, it's worth a visit while you're in the neighborhood.

Getting there

From Taipei, drive east along Hoping East Road toward Mucha. Follow the road the end and turn left at the T-junction. Follow Highway 106 and the Shr-fen (10 Score) signs. Yeh Jen Gu is about four kilometers after Shr-fen. The entrance is marked by white castle turret on the right. Taipei to Shr-fen is about 40 kilometers and the trip takes around one hour. Entrance is NT$160 for adults and NT$120 for children.

Instead of driving back to Taipei the same way that you came, follow the road up the mountain and it eventually leads to Ba Du, just outside Keelung City where you can have a great seafood dinner. The drive takes less than half an hour.