The Rough Terrain on the wayIt was a dream. It sparked long time back; continued to grow and at one point of time became vigorous and continually coming to mind. It is the Lord's great abode on earth "The Mount Kailash". The prayers were heard, but not because of the qualification but because of Its immense Grace, the Lord showed the way in 2001. Unless Its permission is there who could enter that Holiest of the Holy place ?! By the Grace of God got to join a group that had planned to take up the yatra via Kathmandu. From that time it was a penance to worship the Lord, Who has taken abode in our hearts, in His own Abode. The thought itself was quite pleasing that the Lord gave such great blessing. When all the yatris assembled a month before the yatra for a briefing, the mental charge had picked up for this great pilgrimage of the life.
There were lots of hurdles forthcoming. The travel schedule was postponed by two weeks just a couple of days before departure because of some visa restrictions. It was really hard to settle the local logistics to accommodate this change in schedule. When things were getting set came the news of Kathmandu royal family massacre ! The status of the yatra was hanging. What can one do other than pleading to the Supreme to shower the divine grace that would take us to have a glimpse of His holy feet. We don't demand that as the right, as the Supreme knows our deservings, but just beg for the Grace like a small child that cries for the mother just putting a step forward. As the situation was slowly returning to normalcy, the hope was returning. Again just the day before departure the flight was cancelled ! Pleaded to the Lord to give strength to cross whatever that comes in the way of worshiping the Holy Seat of God. Of course but for His Grace we won't have done it. Not just these, many times through the journey, it was the strength of His Grace that was taking forward. Somehow managed to get a rerouted ticket the next day to Kathmandu.
The Rough Terrain on the wayWhen assembled with the pilgrims on the Sunday 9 th June night itself, it felt nice. To be in the association of devotees that too who have come with the single mind of having dharshan of Kailashapathi, in spite of all the hurdles, is certainly lovely. The next morning when we started for the Bangalore Airport to catch the flight to Indraprastham (Delhi) - Kathmandu, the mind was full of thankfulness and enthusiasm looking for the most look forward journey. When landed in Kathmandu on Monday evening, the return of slow normalcy in that city was feelable.
The next morning we went to the temple of the God of this Himalayan kingdom, Lord pashupatinAth. Oh, He is Lord of not just this kingdom, He is Lord of all pashus ! The Lord's Holy anointing was so blissful that there was no mood to move out of the altar till they closed the doors at noon. That Lovely Lord's Grace is what should take us to the Holy abode of kailash, the mind prayed the Lord Who makes us pray Him in all directions. Visited couple of other temples also in Kathmandu. The next evening, there was a batch of pilgrims who just returned completing their pilgrimage. They shared their blissful moments at the Feet of the King of mountains.
Thursday early morning the buses left for the great travel shouting the slogan kAvAy kanakath thiraLE pORRi, kayilai malaiyAnaE pORRi pORRi (Save, the Pile of gems, hail Thee, The Lord of Kailash mount, hail Thee, hail Thee !!). The journey itself was very great, as the discussions centered around the experiences of pilgrims who already had visited this wonderful abode, the Shaiva Siddhantha philosophy, the holy thirumuRais, vedic chantings, pleasant music and the sincere devotion of pilgrims who appeared simple. As the river beTikoshi roaring alongside the road, went discussing the philosophies of relationship between the soul, Supreme and surroundings. Interestingly Shaiva Sidhdhantha claims its origins as kailasha parampara. We stopped at the Nepali border town of Kodari to clear the immigration formalities and shifting of goods from buses to the landcruisers waiting on the Chinese side. Couple of hours later crossed the friendship bridge to get to the Tibeten area - a town called Zhang Mu. From that day the journey was on a set of landcruisers. That evening reached at a hotel in Nyalam. This days journey was quite scenic and impressing all the way through with fibers of water falling from vertical mountain tips, the turbulent stream thundering from many hundred feet down the hill, tiny falls on the way falling above the road, all green and soothing scenes around, mind naturally hailed namaH shIghriyAya cha shIbhyAya cha .
As this place is already more than 10,000 feet from the seam level, the tour operators had decided to make one day additional halt for the pilgrims to get acalimatized. As the tour operator had given instruction not to over relax and advised to take up small treks and strolls around in order to feel more comfortable with the altitude, the next morning went to the nearby hill trekking up. It was a good exercise, after sweating out the stomach was hungry and the body was more comfortable. In the few shops of this small village, pilgrims bought the forgotten items.
The River BrahmaputraThe next morning journey started from Nyalam to climb a bit up and then onwards it was the plateau. There were not much of climb, but the land looked like desert with very little vegetation. The journey from this point onwards continue to be in such a terrain. It can be recollected that in periya purANam it is mentioned that appar crossed the hard deserts on Himalayas on his pilgrimage to mount Kalilash. The geographic knowledge of chEkkizar in southern plains is astounding ! For that hard terrain the cars were giving problems. There was an urge also as the brahmaputra river had to be crossed with the help of boats before they stop at 6 pm. Somehow with the Grace of God just managed to cross it in time to reach in the camp Saga. From here onwards the camps are mud houses with cots and bedding arrangements. Till this point telephone facilities are available. At these heights breathing could be a bit difficult than normal. In the nights to easen the breathing the organizers kept a piece of camphor in all the rooms.
On Sunday morning we started off to the next camp, Paryang. The journey is alongside river brahmaputra initially. As the sun was shining well some of the pilgrims took bath in the river. But in spite of the sun the water was quite cold. That evening we arrived at Paryang. It was a travel of about 200 kms everyday. Totally about 900 km gets covered from Kathmandu to Kailash. From one camp to other for hundreds of kilometers, it is hard to see any inhabitations except really few of the tibetens.
The organizer had already told that the next day would be the first dharshan of the Lord's Holy Mount. It created a great amount of zeal, after all the sight of our Heart Stealing Supreme is the whole purpose of this difficult journey. The enthusiasm went up in the afternoon as that is when the dharshan would be seen, we were told. When the eyes closed a bit, the tibeten driver kindled the spirit by saying, "Kang Rimpoche, Tso Mapam (Kailash, Manasarovar) approaching !" He probably said for fun, as there was three more hours of drive, but then on each lake looked like Manasarovar and at each turn started expecting the first glimpse of the Lord ! The One, Who came on His own and stole off our mind, was making us run corner to corner in search of Him ! Where can the sleep come then ! There was nice melodious tibeten song praising the Dolma La, the highest point in the parikrama route of the Holy mount, in the car was adding to the spirit. Finally that great Monday's evening, the driver went up a slope, circled a flag mast of tibetens three times and said "Tso Mapam" (Manasarovar). The mind was thrilled at the sight of the Great Holy Lake mAnasarovar, representing the Goddess on Whose heart is the Merciful Lord ever blessing. The eyes searched for the Lord's Holy Mount. But the Lord had completely hid Himself in the clouds.
The Holy Lake ManasarovarProstrated to the direction of the Supreme. "If the Forehead-eyed Lord decides not to reveal, who can see Him ?!" The Lord had decided when and how to give the blessing, what can our hurry fetch ? Quite disappointed though, prayed to the Holy Feet of the Lord, to bless as per the Grace of Its own will. That evening the plan was to stay in the Zeidi camp on the bank of Manasarovar, but stayed in the Hore (Hor chu) camp a few miles away as the drivers did not cooperate. The next morning went on our vehicles for the parikrama of the lake Manasarovar. (Many Nepali travels do not take for complete parikrama, but on special insisting this organizer took us). When the focus was completely on the Manasarovar, the sister who was organizing the yatra shouted from our car, "Kailash, Kailash". Virtually jumped out of the car to scan the complete direction she was pointing to have a glimpse of the Nectar, the mind was yearning for. There were a few mountains hazy amidst the clouds. Couldn't clearly see. Bowed down to the Lord, Who is surrounded by His great servants.
The parikrama (Circumambulation) continued a few meters away from the brim of Manasarovar. There is a Tibeten monastery on the bank, to which the guide took around. The sight of the Holy lake was quite impressing. had there been no clouds the shade of the mountains, including the great Kailash would be seen on this dark green water. From the monastery the parikrama again continued towards a hot spring called chiu gompa. On the way to the left was another huge lake called raaxastal. This is the lake created by rAvaNa after his failed misadventure to lift up the Holy Mount Kailash. While people (Hindus and Tibeten Budhdhists) consider the Manasarovar as holy, the adjacent raxastal is not considered good. Before getting to the Holy water of Manasarovar, we wanted to wash away many days' dirt from our body. The hot sulphur spring on the high grounds near the lake, served that purpose.
It was almost noon when we came to Manasarovar bank again at the Zeidi camp. Still the water was chill. The Lord has not given complete dharshan yet. This is the Holy thIrththam of the kailasha xetra. This also is revered as the mother pArvatI, Who is the first and foremost devotee of the Lord shiva; the One with Supreme love for the Lord; Inseparable from the Lord. May that holy water clean away any dirts of the mind that hides the vision to see our Beloved Lord ! Saluting the Lord shambhu, went and had quick dips in the lake. It felt nice. Had there not been much wind it may be nice to be in the lake for some more time. Later having bath in the Holy Ash, finishing the lunch started off to the Kailash base camp Tarchen.
See Also:
1. Kailash - The glory of the place
2. Kailash yatra - some information
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