Chronograph Tips and Advice

I've had a Chrony since 1998. It's the "Beta Master" model, and I got it from Midway for either $109 or $119 - I forget which.

I must say that it works great! The only thing about it that I don't like about it is that it DOES SO MUCH with such a LIMITED menu scheme that I can never remember how to use all the features. I always keep the manual with me for reference. It has the computer and readout in a REMOTE unit which I place on the bench right next to me. If the downrange unit gets hit, I'm not out the WHOLE unit.

Here's a few of tips to keep from clobbering your chronograph. REMEMBER that your scope is a couple-few (typically, about 2.5) inches ABOVE your bore. At the 10-20 feet that you place the unit, it is STILL that distance, for all practical purposes. The Mfr. will tell you how far, but typically, you want the bullet to fly about 3 inches over the sensors. Now, it is pretty difficult (for me, at least) to line up the unit with a target downrange, so here's what I do:

1. I measure the scope height above the bore (approx.), add the 3-4 inches for bullet height above the sensors, and then put BRIGHTLY COLORED TAPE on the sky screen holder sticks to line my horizontal x-hair on. Just center the vertical x-hair on the center of the unit.
2. If you're using iron sights, put the tape at the 3-4 inches the Mfr. recommends for bullet height, and forget scope offset.
3. ALWAYS SHOOT FROM A REST.
4. DON'T try to use a chronograph under flourescent lights. The low frequency (60 Hz) just confuses the HECK out of the sensors.
5. A LOW light angle (angle of the sun) can give you fits.
6. If you're having trouble with readings, use the 'skyscreens' or 'light diffusers' that came with the unit - that's what they're for.
7. Also, on "too bright" days, you may want to tape a manilla folder between the screens to futher mute the bright light. Bright, but hazy days seem to be the best. The clouds must act as natural light diffusers.

Last updated : 02 January 2001