There's no easy answer to this question. However, in my experience, pistol loads are generally easier develop than rifle loads, mainly because we tend to demand a whole lot more accuracy from our rifle loads, and rifle load performance is easier to evaluate.
For handgun loads, my advice is to go with the "tried and true pet loads" that have been established over the years. That's NOT to say that you shouldn't experiment and try different (LISTED) loads on your own, but when first starting out, the 'ol standards are hard to beat. For instance, a 200 grain lead semi wadcutter (SWC) and 3.5 - 4 grains of Bullseye powder in the .45 ACP is a "standard". The same applies to rifle loads - initially. I say this because there are certain powders and bullet weights that fall into the "tried and true pet load" category. For instance - Berger, Sierra, Hornady, et al make match grade bullets that have excellent reputations for accuracy. Hornady, Nosler, Barnes, Sierra, Speer, et al make bullets that have very good reputations for accuracy, and excellent reputations for performance on game. Certain powders - like IMR4064 and W748 have excellent reputations for accuracy in certain cartridges (a range of cartridges, actually). Again, these are good places to start.
When working on a load for a rifle or handgun that will be used for hunting, velocity is usually a more important consideration than it is when developing all but long range (600+ yard) target loads. This is true because target loads are generally only concerned with premium accuracy, while hunting loads must balance accuracy with power in order to deliver ENERGY and bullet performance on target.
For hunting loads, first I pick an appropriate powder for the cartridge and bullet weight. The powder should show relatively high velocity and have a reputation for good accuracy. For example : H4831 for heavy bullets in a .270 Win; IMR 4064, W748 for medium weight bullets in a .308 Win ; W296, H110, 2400 all have a good reputation for velocity and accuracy in the .44 Magnum.
The most suitable candidates for your powder selection can usually be found by (1) checking your load manuals for "recommended accuracy loads"; (2) checking powder and other reloading supply manufacturers recommendations for cartridge application; or asking around (3) among your shooting buddies or at your gun club, (4) at your local gun shop, or (5) on internet bulletin boards; or (6) by checking in books and magazine articles for suggestions, and (7) by finding out what the record holders use (assuming they're willing to share).
When developing handgun and rifle target loads, I generally use a "tried and true" load, keep the load on the light side, and PRACTICE. The major consideration here is making sure that excessive leading is avoided, but that the load has sufficient strength to cycle the action, in the case of an autoloader. My handgun target loads are, by definition, short range loads, so energy to target and at the target is not a consideration.
Here's a bit of sage advice:
'Use the powder that gives the highest velocity at the lowest pressure.'
Of course, it would be useful to get the pressure data for each load in a loading manual, rather than a blanket 'these loads do not exceed There are two general methods for developing 'good' loads:
For rifles, start the powder charge at or just above the midrange of load data, and work up in 0.5 grain increments, setting the seating depth at 0.005" off the lands. For magnum handguns, also start the powder charge at or just above the midrange of load data, and work up in smaller increments, depending on how dramatically increases in the powder charge bring me to the published maximum. For handguns, seat the bullet at the cannelure, and put a firm crimp in place, or follow the load manual's over-all length (OAL) data.
This method is fairly forgiving of shooter error, because this method uses groups. Load 5 of each, and label the positions in the box for each set of loads. Shoot them at the range, watching for pressure signs and recording velocities from my chronograph. I mark and save the targets. For rifles, once the pressure is too high, back down 0.5 to 1.0 grain, depending on the weight of the load. For instance, a 60 grain rifle load can be backed down 1.0 grain without a huge affect on velocity, while a 40 grain rifle load and 15 - 20 grain magnum handgun load should be backed down less (about 0.5 grains).
For handguns, just use the load that gives the highest velocity, while maintaining good accuracy while staying at a safe pressure. There's a judgement call to be made here, as a load that gives much more velocity while sacrificing a little accuracy is preferred over the very accurate, but relatively anemic load. For handguns, you're pretty much finished. Now its all PRACTICE.
This method (attributed to Creighton Audette) is used mainly for rifles and very accurate handguns (T/C Contender, etc). Start the powder charge at the minimum load or just below the load midrange, and work up in 0.2 grain increments, never exceeding the maximum charge, setting the seating depth at about 0.005" off the lands. Load 1 or 2 of each, and carefully label the positions in the box for each of the loads.
Unlike the above method, this method is very unforgiving of shooter error, because you only load and shoot 1 or 2 of each load. That's a very small sample size. Be sure you are up to the task of making every shot a good one (no 'flyers' here), because you only get one chance.
Shoot them for accuracy at the range, watching for pressure signs, all at the SAME 1 target. Long range (300 yards or better) is preferred to amplify the differences in impact point. The main problems with shooting at longer ranges, however, are : (1) FINDING a place where you can shoot at long range, (2) SEEING the bullet holes, and (3) WIND EFFECTS and SHOOTER ERROR will be more pronounced. It is true that wind deflection will only (for all practical purposes) affect lateral impact points, but I still prefer 'dead calm' wind conditions.
Mark where each load impacts the target on a sheet of paper at the shooting bench (a high-power scope or spotting scope REALLY helps here). The bullets will impact the target at different points - due to velocity changes AND differences in barrel harmonics imparted by the different powder charges. There will also be a grouping of loads on the target - and maybe more than one. These groups are the powder charges that are 'most forgiving' -- those at the NODES or SWEET SPOTS of your rifle. Record and use the central powder charge(s) for these group(s).
If the pressure ever gets too high, STOP and back down 0.5 to 1.0 grain, depending on the weight of the load. For instance, a 60 grain rifle load can be backed down 1.0 grain without a huge affect on velocity, while a 40 grain rifle load and 15 - 20 grain magnum handgun load should be backed down less (about 0.5 grains).
For rifle loads, now tune for accuracy using the choosen charge by adjusting the seating depth of the bullet from 0.005" off the lands in 0.005" increments, making 10 loads of each. I fire 5 per target, marking the depth setting for each set of loads on the target. When I find a good one (or more, sometimes), I go back and fire a second target to make sure it wasn't luck. The tightest avg. group wins - and that's my seating depth. I adjust the remaining rounds accordingly, and test them the next time out.
AOL (OverAll Length) of the cartridge is a poor way to measure your loaded rounds. The reason I say this is that the overall length of bullets - from the base to the tip - will NOT necessarily be as uniform as you would expect. The bullet tips tend to get slightly deformed, or are manufactured imperfectly. This will give you inconsistent measurements. The right way to measure your cartridge length is from the base of the case to the base of the bullet's ogive. The ogive (pronounced 'O-Gee') of a bullet is the curved portion of the bullet ahead of the cylindrical, or shank, section. This is a more more consistent measurement with respect to actual bullet seating depth. The correct way to make this measurement is with a bullet comparator. Sinclair International sells one that works for 6 different common calibers (.224, .243, .257, .264, .284, and .308), and it only costs about $16. They also sell one that has a body ($13) and then you buy each caliber 'insert' for about $3. This one offers more flexibility in calibers (cover 13 calibers).
Another important consideration for rifle loads (and to an extent, pistol loads - less so for accuracy than for performance on game, in my experience) : you may have to try SEVERAL bullets until you are satisfied with their performance - this applies for both accuracy AND performance on game.
Other excellent sources of information are the various 'reloading' and 'hunting' FORUMS on the WWW - check them out!Adjusting the Load
Method 1 - Grouping Incremental Charges
Method 2 - 'Walking' the Charges
Pressure
Seating Depth
Altering Choice of Bullets
Last updated : 10 March 2001