Day 6: June 15, 1997

STU 師大 (8:15 a.m.)

Dayan Pagoda 大雁塔 (8:45 a.m.)

Shaanxi History Museum 陜西歷史博物館 (10:30 a.m.)

City wall of Xi'an (South) 西安城牆(南) (12 nn)

Bell Tower 鐘樓 (2 p.m.)

Forest of steeles 碑林 (3:30 p.m.)

STU 師大 (5:30 p.m.)

Xiao Zhai 小寨 (8:30 p.m.)

STU 師大 (11:30 p.m.)


We started our journey later today, because the spots we were going to visit were in the urban area of Xi'an, so we could save much traveling time. Chang Xiao-Yong 常小勇, an STU student who talked with us last night, came with us that day as another tourist guide. The first spot we visited was Da Yan (Big Goose) Pagoda, just a 15 minutes travel from STU.

8:45 a.m. Dayan Pagoda 大雁塔

It was Sunday, so many tourists were visiting this major visitors' spot in Xi'an. It was first built in Tang Dynasty, and is now 7 storeys high. It was built to keep Buddhist holy books which were brought from India by Yuen Chong 玄奘. We entered the garden and walked around. There were statues of Buddha in one of the houses in the garden. Also, there were small towers, rock tables and chairs and of course trees in the garden. We climbed up the pagoda, and found the stairs were very narrow and there were many people inside. On each floor, there were people selling souvenirs, and we saw another man drawing pictures with Chinese characters. We had a great view of the garden and Xi'an city when we reached the top floor of the pagoda. We left the congested pagoda soon.

Da Yan Pagoda 大雁塔The view of Xi'an city seen from the Pagoda
大雁塔上的西安市景















We left the garden, and we had some time to walk around and visit the souvenir stores. The souvenirs were quite expensive. There were jade products, wood crafts, small statues, and playing cards. We just had a look inside the stores. Some girls bought beautiful kites from the stores.


10:30 a.m. Shaanxi History Museum 陜西歷史博物館

We arrived at the museum at about 10:30. It was a big museum with two storeys, in a shape of a big temple. There was a big metal lion in the lobby. The objects on display were arranged in time order, so that we saw the things with the longest history first, including tools, bones etc. of prehistoric human beings. Then, there were bronze containers in Zhou Dynasty, terracotta warriors in Qin Dynasty etc.. There were descriptions of the unearthed antiques. Lots of things to see, and many of them can be seen in Chinese history textbooks. In Han Dynasty, there were colourful pottery. Lastly we came to antiques in Ching Dynasty. the museum was so big that I felt tired, fortunately there were sofa in the basement. There were souvenir for sale, but they were expensive, and mainly were flower pots, pictures etc..

The museum

We were given enough time to watch the antiques, and in fact I followed the path again from the prehistoric period to Ching Dynasty.

Gathered again in the coach, we travelled to the next spot with tired legs.





12 nn City wall of Xi'an (South) 西安城牆(南)

The present city wall of Xi'an was built in Ming Dynasty, the whole wall was preserved (the only city wall which was wholely preserved in China). Although it was already covering a large area, it was much much smaller than the city wall of Chang An 長安 (previous name of Xi'an) in Han and Tang Dynasty. We came to the wall at the south of the city. It was magnificent, very high and thick, with a tower (敵樓) on the top. We climbed to the top of it using the wide steps beside. At the top, the space was wide and it looked like a long road without an end. We could see the roof of the buildings from there. There was a store, renting old weapons (e.g. spears, big knifes) and sedan (轎) to tourists for photographing. We rented some of them and played with them. There were ancient clothes (remade) for rent, so that people could pretend to be soldiers guarding the city, or to be the king or princess and take a photo. One could walk around the city by walking on the wall, but of course it takes days to finish.

The outlook of the wall 城牆外觀On the top of the wall 城牆上I'm on thw wall 我在城牆上

Of course, the big doors of the city wall were not closed, but were opened to let vehicles and people going in and out. We hadn't much time staying there. Then, we were on our coach and rode to the centre of Xi'an city, near the Bell Tower. When we were walking to a restaurant to have our lunch, we walked along a street which was like a background in making films. The road was made of rectangular rocks and not concrete. Beside it, there were houses which were two or three storeys high, with wooden window frames. The street lamps were antique-like, and of course the bicycles which were everywhere in Xi'an.

Suddenly I discovered something about psychology, which was a research centre of applied psychology, but it was a small scaled one, just the size of two shops.

The street near the Bell Tower 鐘樓附近一街

We came into a restaurant offering dumplings filled with soup 灌湯餃. We also had some "8-treasures congee 八寶粥", and we counted the 8 elements of the congee (different beans). Of course we had dumplings. We were full when we left the restaurant. After that, we had a look around. I visited the applied psychology research centre of Shaanxi. It was small, but it was for the whole Shaanxi Province. I saw a few people there, and I saw in a leaflet that they offer IQ test, personality test etc.. There were testing machines, but I couldn't see them, what a pity.

We had time to walk along a street in which there were many souvenir stores. Many of them were selling small objects like old coins, golden words of Chairman Mao, small toys etc..


2 p.m. Bell Tower 鐘樓

The Bell Tower wasn't far away, and we travelled to it on foot. It was inside the circle of a traffic interchange 交匯處, so that we went there through a pedestrian subway (I think it was the only pedestrian subway in Xi'an). We went to the bottom of the tower and climbed the steps.

The Bell Tower 鐘樓

It was situated at the centre of Xi'an city, where the infrastructure was better. There were concrete roads, and the pedestrians and cyclists paths were well separated from the vehicles' roads. Street lamps were built, and there were traffic lights (I believe there were less than 10 sets of traffic lights in Xi'an). There was a big metal bell, and tourists could pay RMB$3 to have 3 hits of it with a long piece of wood, we tried it, the sound of the bell was thick. We could see the whole city when we climbed to the top storey and walked round the tower. We found there were nothing else interesting, and left.


3:30 p.m. Forest of steeles 碑林

This spot is near the city wall. Actually, it was a museum which collected the famous steeles in each dynasty. We walked along a path covered with tree shade after passing through the big sign of the museum. The buildings were marvelous, especially the corridors and pillars, full of Chinese characteristics.

There were several exhibition halls, each contained many many steeles. The steeles were lined up so that people could see the front side and the back side of them. They were protected by glass frames, and some of them had a rock animal at the bottom. Many famous books were crafted in the steeles, like Confucius' words "Lun Yu 論語". The halls were big, and if one wanted to see all of the steeles, s/he should have strong legs, not to mention reading the words on them. I realized that crafting these steeles needed great skill. The calligraphy was good. The steeles were black in colour with white words, and the halls had weak lighting, if one walks to steeles far from the entrance, it could be quite terrifying. It was surely a good place for playing hide-and-seek.

A arbour in the Forest of Steeles 碑林內一亭子Steeles in a hall 碑林內的碑

While we had visited all the halls, some of us rested our legs, about I found some shops selling goods (e.g. tea leaves, Chinese medicine, Chinese cloth). Kitty and Frennie were there too. Then, I was back to the arbour, and Kelvin was watching two people playing Chinese chess. What an atmosphere! Playing Chinese chess in a place full of a feeling of traditional remains. Besides steeles, there were crafted pillars in the garden, and there were paintings on the walls of corridors.

When we felt enough of staying in the museum, we walked back to the car park, but we could not see Mr. Cheung nor our coach. So, we had a walk on the streets. There were stalls selling paintings, some of us were interested, and Fat Boy bargained with the stall-keeper. They argued for every dollar, and some of us helped Fat Boy. In Hong Kong, we never bargain dollar by dollar since it is not a desirable behaviour, people would consider you as a middle-aged woman 師奶, but in Xi'an, it was a must to bargain, and we got much fun in the process. At last Fat Boy bought what he wanted, but still not satisfied with the price. While they were bargaining, I walked through the door of the city wall, and went outside the wall. There I saw a beautiful scene of the wall, with a river 護城河 in front of it. I bought a corn-shaped ice cream, which tasted like sweet corn. Finally, we were on the coach again, and back to STU.

5:30 p.m. STU 師大

After the dinner, we had spare time. The girls went out to phone home, and they were led by a student there to go to hotels, hoping to find phones of distant calls. Kelvin, Fat Boy and I walked along TU Road and visited book stores. However, it was quite small. I bought a set of "戰國策" for about RMB$35. Then, I told them that I would meet them again in a book store nearby as I wanted to buy something at the stalls in TU Road. I came to a stall selling bags, after bargaining, I bought a small Motorola bag for RMB$21, also, I bought a dress for my mother. I thought of buying those imitate football shirts, but I didn't buy at last. Then, I came to the end of TU Road and walked across the main road (Chang An Road 長安路). I searched for the book store which Fat Boy and Kelvin should visit, but I couldn't find it. I regreted that I didn't ask them for the exact location of it. I asked a passer-by for book stores nearby, but he said book stores should be in STU. I continued walking south along Chang An Road until I could see no buildings ahead. I felt I should not go further, since it seemed to be the southern edge of the Xi'an urban area. I had a strange feeling: it was dark, and the street lights was neglectable, people couldn't see the road clearly, relying on lights coming from shops beside the road. I didn't get used to walk in darkness with so many people. You know, in Hong Kong when there are many people, there must be bright light. Suddenly, I saw something interesting, which was a board on the wall of a building, saying that there was a mental hospital. Due to curiosity and as a psychology student, I found a passer-by and asked him whether it really was a mental hospital or not. I asked him how could I get there, he pointed me to a dark path and the steps, and said I could climb the steps. I needed much courage to walk to the dark path and go upstairs.

I went to the second floor and looked upward, I found light, and I saw a gate at the end of the steps. I also saw some people at the other side of the gate. I spoke to them, but I couldn't understand their language. He may be a guard, but he was more possible to be a patient. I thought patients were just locked there like prisoners, at least that place gave me such a feeling. The stairs were dark, and I was afriad of staying any longer, so I retreated back to the street.

As I could not find the book shop which Fat Boy and Kelvin were visiting, I went back to TU Road, and then back to the hostel. I met Kelvin, and knew that where they were visiting after separating with me. The book shop was not on Chang An Road and was inside a village. Kelvin told me that others were probably in the bar which we visited two days ago, and we went to Xiao Zhai again by taxi.


8:30 p.m. Xiao Zhai 小寨

This time Kelvin and I didn't visit the stalls but went straight to the bar. As we were not sure whether Sam and Virginia were coming after us or not, we waited outside a shopping centre which we visited two days ago. There was a Kenturky Fried Chicken, and the price was about the same as in Hong Kong, so it was very expensive in Xi'an. We could not see Sam or Virginia, so we went to the bar.

Helen, Frennie, Kitty and others went there long ago, and felt tired, so they left very soon. Then, Sam and Virginia came. So, Joe, Kelvin, Sam, Virginia and I sat together and chatted. We had beer and talked about the June 4 Event, the politics of China and Hong Kong etc.. (showing that freedom of speech was present in Xi'an). We talked about our own situation (e.g. financial) too. In the bar, there was a waitress, Miss He 和, who knew Cantonese, so we felt like meeting a friend there. She learned Cantonese in Xi'an, and she said not many Cantonese people went there. There were only one or two bars in Xi'an. She told us that she knew someone operating a bar in Macau.

We were a little bit hungry, but the bar couldn't provide much food, so we left the bar. Before that, we took a photo with Miss He outside the bar. We crossed the road to the cooked food stalls on the pedestrians' path, someone greeted us immediately and showed us where we could sit. We ordered meat noodles, and told the chef that do not make the noodles too spicy. Some stall-keepers around talked with us, and we told them we were from Hong Kong, and they were interested and talked among themselves. The bowls of noodles were big, and were rich in meat, vegetable etc.. One thing special was that there was a plastic bag covering the bowl, so the noodles were in the bag, so that after we had finished the noodles, the stall-keeper just threw the plastic bag away and did not need to wash the bowl. Another environmental unfriendly activity. We also had mutton. Although we told the chef that we couldn't tolerate the degree of spice there, the noodles were still very spicy, but it was really good. We spent about $20 for 3 bowls of noodles and a dish of mutton.

We crossed the road to find a taxi, and we travelled back to STU. I enjoyed this kind of eating and drinking very much, it was even more convenient, and of course more economical than in Hong Kong.

Additional photos:

Photo of the Bell Tower
Another picture of the steeles in Forest of Steeles


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