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In Tudor England, men's dress became broader and more manly. Rich men wore suits of silk, velvet, or brocade, decorated with jewels. Sleeves were padded and breeches were fashionable, worn with velvet stockings and wide, open shoes. Bright colours were preferred, scarlet and green being very popular. Poor men still dressed in plain clothes of coarse wool or un- bleached linen, and slashing was forbidden to them by law. Tudor ladies wore heavy dresses of velvet or brocade, with loosely draped or winged sleeves. Bodices were tight and the overdress was usually slit in front to show a richly embroidered underdress. Stiff, arch-shaped head-dresses were fashionable. Poor women wore aprons over short-skirted dresses. White caps or thin strips of material would cover their hair.
In Elizabeth's reign, costume became stiffer, more awkward to wear, and very heavily decorated. Elizabethan men and women wore ruffs or starched collars. These were usually made of white cambric, and were heavily pleated, starched, and held in place by wires. They must have been very un- comfortable to wear. Rich men wore padded breeches, tightly fitting tunics or doublets and velvet cloaks. Slashing was still used as a means of decoration and the silk, velvet, or brocade clothes could have jewels sewn on them. Knitted stockings were now fashionable. Poor men wore loose , belted doublets over plain shirts. Tight bodices and very full skirts were worn by ladies of this period. A wired underskirt called a farthingale was used to hold out the overdresses. Padded sleeves and rich embroidery were popular. Ordinary women wore woollen dresses and kirtles in dull colours.
After 1600, cotton was used for weaving into cloth, when the manufacture of cotton goods became an important industry centred around Lancashire. In the seventeenth century clothes became less bulky. The Elizabethan ruff disappeared and was replaced by the lace collar. During this period men wore loose trousers which fastened at the knee, doublets, and cloaks. Wide-brimmed hats trimmed with feathers were popular. Later in this era men's costume changed, and long coats with waistcoats and breeches became fashionable. This was the beginning of modern dress. Wigs were worn and gentlemen of fashion would carry a sword. Ladies of this period wore high-waisted, low-necked gowns of stiff silk or satin, trimmed with lace. Farthingales were no longer worn and the fontange style of head dress-a towering, wired, lace cap-was popular.
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During The Eighteenth century, costume became more sober. This century marked the return towards "classical" lines in clothing, the aim being refinement and daintiness in everything. Knee-breeches gave way to trousers, tightly fitting coats were replaced by loose frock-coats, and the sleeved waistcoat became the shorter, sleeveless version that is known today. Wigs were worn by most men, and starched neckcloths or cravats became popular. A great change also took place in women's fashion. At first dresses were made of heavy, rich materials and their full skirts were stretched over hooped petticoats. Low necks were fashionable and ornamental panels called stomachers were often inserted in the front bodices. At the turn of the century more flimsy materials were used and styles became simpler. High-waisted dresses with narrow skirts were worn, and the tall, elaborate hairstyles that had been popular were replaced by shorter, curlier styles. Tall ostrich-feathers were worn as hair decorations. In this era poor men wore knee-breeches, shirts, and stout woollen stockings. Short, sleeveless waistcoats worn with spotted neckerchiefs became popular. Simple serviceable garments such as linen smocks were worn by farm workers. Plain gowns, aprons, and mob caps continued to be the garb of working women.
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