• How to Find a Maine Coon Kitten
• How Much Does a Maine Coon Kitten Cost?
• Why Are Kittens So Expensive?
• Visiting a Cattery
• Questions to Ask a Breeder
• Questions the Breeder Should Ask You
• History of the Maine Coon Cat
• Veterinary Guidelines for Maine Coon Breeders
• Care, Health, and Safety Tips

First, put "pet shop" right out of your mind. No reputable breeder, of any kind of cat or dog, would even consider selling an animal to a pet shop. Kittens found in pet shops are from what would be considered "puppy mills" in the dog world. Pet shop prices will always equal or exceed what a reputable breeder would charge. And you cannot evaluate the conditions the kitten was raised in, or meet its parents, or other adults of the breed. It is a massive mistake to think about "rescuing" a puported MC from a pet shop.

Almost as bad are the backyard breeders (abbreviated BYB). These may be people who truly love their animals, but have started out with pet quality cats (perhaps purchased from a pet shop) that they breed together. They don't register the offspring, show their cats, or maintain any contact with the breeding community at large. They do not necessarily provide the same level of research into health issues, breeding their cats to the accepted Standards established for this breed, or socializing their kittens. They have no intention of improving the breed, and they have no network of other breeders to contact to help resolve a problem. Their pricing may be the same as that of reputable breeders - but people end up paying for a cat with questionable heritage, that may or may not resemble a purebred MC, with no knowledge of what health issues may be lurking in the ancestry of the cat. See following section on "Questions to Ask the Breeder" and "Visiting a Cattery" for some ways to make sure you are dealing with a reputable breeder.

The very best place to find a MC kitten is by attending a cat show in your area. Nope, the kittens themselves may not be there, but the most important thing is finding a breeder that you trust and want to work with. You can find out about cat shows in your area by reviewing the show schedule in Cat Fancy magazine, or by calling the Cat Fancier's Association (CFA), who can refer you to shows and breeders in your area. The phone number is (732) 528-9797

Cats are also advertised in various magazines - Cat Fancy, Cats USA, Cats, and in the local newspapers. Many legitimate breeders advertise in all of these publications, but there may also be BYB's - so you will need to ask plenty of questions first.

Another referral source is the Maine Coon Breeder's and Fancier's Association, or MCBFA. Contact Deborah Hall, Corresponding Secretary, at 4405 Karrol SW, Albuquerque NM 87121. They will not recommend specific breeders, but will send you a list of breeders in the area that belong to MCBFA. That doesn't mean that only MCBFA breeders are "reputable", but most are reliable. Again, you need to ask your questions.

How Much Does a Maine Coon Kitten Cost?

This varies greatly depending on the area. Generally, the kittens are more expensive on the East and West Coasts, less in the Midwest. In the New York area, pet quality kittens range from $400 - $l000. And you DO want a pet quality kitten. Good breeders have a long waiting list from other established breeders for top show quality kittens, and are unwilling to sell their "cream of the crop" kittens to pet homes. Beware any breeder who tells you that every kitten they produce is a "Top Show Quality" kitten. However, feel free to ask the breeder to show you the difference between pet and show - you'll be surprised. This has nothing to do with size, beauty, or temperament. The factors that determine the difference are so slight that only experienced breeders and judges can distinguish - and even then, most breeders agonize over whether or not they are making the correct evaluation. This difference could mean that the tail is an inch too short, or has a slight kink. A white spot on the chest, ears or eyes set a fraction of an inch too close or far apart, eyes that slant just slightly too far up or down, even just the expression in a cat's face....these make cats "pets" rather than "show". You may actually prefer the pets to the show cats! Sometimes, the kitten IS technically "perfect" (or close), but the breeder just does not want that particular "look" to represent their cattery, or they may have a breeding restriction set down by the breeders of the kitten's parents. But ask to see the difference - you'll be surprised. Pet Quality kittens are certainly not inferior cats.

The price of the kitten will probably include the first two FVRCP vaccinations, and at least one veterinary exam given before it leaves the breeder. Shipping costs will be extra. You will be expected to provide a carrier and a mandatory vet visit under most contracts.

Why Are Kittens So Expensive?

While BYB's and pet shops may make money selling kittens, most legitimate breeders do not even cover their own costs. It's a very expensive hobby. Most of us WISH we could just break even, but can't. It may look like a gold mine to you, but let's go through the expenses involved and you'll see that turning a profit would be a rare event for a breeder. We do this for love of cats, not money (and most of us hide the REAL expenses from our spouses!).

As an example, buying a top show quality female, with breeding rights (which may have restrictions on how we can sell the kittens), may cost $800 to more than $l000. Males are more. Showing her to the preliminary title of "Champion" can add another $500-$2000 to the investment. Showing a male or female to the title of Grand Champion, or Regional/National Winner, can be from $1000 to more than $20,000! Maintenance, supplies and veterinary care generally cost breeders about $500 per cat per year. By the time a cat is first bred, at about a year old, the breeder will have invested several thousand dollars. Then there is a stud fee for the breeding, which may be $500 - $l000 per litter. Kitten shots cost breeders about $l00 per kitten - and that's if there are NO problems to be treated. Kittens stay with breeders for 3 months or so, and have to be fed, cuddled, and cleaned-up-after for all that time. Separate, special areas of the house are often customized for the cats to use as a cattery or nursery - and some cattery set-ups cost $5,000 or more to build. If all goes well, fat healthy kittens are born - but there are always the disasters, such as C-sections that run $750 and up. Sometimes, after all the investment is made, a cat is found to be infertile. Good breeders make a huge investment into "doing it right", by having the right breeding cats and facilities. Both pet shops and BYB's reap profits, by cutting corners (not having quality cats as parents, not showing, not keeping kittens until the proper age or providing proper prenatal and kitten veterinary care) - and then they charge the same price as the reputable breeders. And those caring, professional breeders make huge sacrifices in their personal lives, and shed lots of tears, in trying to create succesful breeding programs. BYB's are "one hit wonders" - they take your money and are gone. Most legitimate breeders are going to be pretty darn annoyed if you neglect to send photos and check in once in awhile!

Visiting a Cattery

You are well advised to shop around. All kittens are cute (repeat this in your head over and over as you cuddle kittens). All of them! It's hard to stay objective, but you are selecting a companion that should hopefully be with you for the next fifteen years or so - an expensive companion at that. It's really hard not to fall in love - and especially if a kitten falls in love with YOU! that's usually a good indication, kittens are very smart. But you should make the BEST choice, not the fastest choice. Plan to meet the breeders at their home. Visit the cattery, meet the adults, including the parents (if the breeder used an outside stud, the dad might not be there). Is it clean? Sure, if the breeder has ten cats, you may detect a bit of litterbox odor - but do the boxes look like they have been properly maintained (recently scooped)? Do the food and water dishes look clean? Cats can trash a place in mere moments, so don't be expecting perfection - but DO expect to see that care has been taken in maintaining the facilities. If the breeder has stud males, they HAVE to be confined in most cases - even if they don't spray, they will surely manage to breed their sisters or moms if not confined. And you may smell male cat odor - well, the males do that, and they are proud of it. But the smell should not make you gasp for breath. Despite being confined, you should be able to see that the studs have adequate space to stretch, sleep, and play. By and large, stud males are aggressively friendly cats, who should be anxious to make your acquaintance. They are usually retired show cats, who necessarily are by nature friendly, trusting, and affectionate animals. Sometimes they may indicate their friendliness by taking a nip out of your arm, but rest assured this is an overexcited response - a love bite. Females - well, give them a break - almost every one of them will have good days and bad. They seem to get PMS once in awhile. But if you see three females who are throwing themselves at your feet, and one glaring at you from the top of a cabinet, assume that the ONE girl is having a bad day.

It's really important that the breeder's adult cats be friendly and curious. Give them a few moments to get used to you, but you should EXPECT that most, if not all, of the adults should be anxious to meet you. These cats are the example of what the breeder is doing. If most of the cats slink by, nervous and scared, or the breeder has to drag the parents out from under the couch, beware. Retired show cats are generally very anxious for attention - after all, they were trained to revel in the adulation of large crowds of people. Mom cats, by the way, are not usually too protective of their kittens - usually, they are trying to push themselves in front of their kittens to get your attention, not to protect their kittens.

Check out the parents. There are many styles of MC's to choose from, from a "sweet" look to very "feral". You should choose the style, sex, and color you are most attracted to - although, if it really doesn't matter for any other reason, you should definitely go for the kitten who "picks" you. They sense something special, a bond, and are never wrong! Breeders may have waiting lists, which is not a bad thing, for particular colors or sexes. But don't despair. If you are a bit flexible, you will get your kitten sooner. And waiting lists have a habit of being flexible - someone will wait nine months for a silver male, walk in to choose their kitten, and get "chosen" by a brown female. Waiting lists only mean that a breeder has been evaluated before, and found desirable by others.

See how the kittens are raised. No, cages are not necessarily a bad thing if they are used by breeders in specific situations, such as keeping two litters apart from each other until they both have been vaccinated. Sometimes two females who have kittens can't be together due to territorial issues. But if kittens are being raised in a remote part of the house, mostly by the mom-cat, they might not be well-socialized. There should not be a dozen litters of kittens around - two or three litters at once is a LOT for breeders to cope with. It takes a lot of time to raise every kitten.

And see their personalities. If you are viewing very young kittens, under 6 weeks of age, they might be a bit timid. By ten weeks, you should have a hard time escaping from the room with your shoelaces tied. The earlier you view the kittens, the more you should rely on your impression of the adult cats. Most legitimate breeders can accurately identify different personality types in their kittens by the age of l0-l3 weeks. If you have an unusual home situation - an aggressive dog, a dominant female cat, a child who is too excitable - please please please listen to the breeder's recommendation. We can usually be helpful in choosing the kitten with the right temperament for each situation. If the breeder says "oh, they're all the same" - they are more interested in money than matchmaking. They may all be appropriate to any situation, but they are ALL different.

So the most important part of your shopping should be identifying a breeder you want to work with. The vast majority of kittens placed bounce right into their new homes, healthy and happy and adjustable. But if you have a problem with your kitten, you need to have established a mutually trusting relationship with the breeder. So make sure you feel comfortable with the breeder - hard to believe, but it's more important in some ways than which kitten you pick out.

The most important question to be answered on a visit to a cattery is, "Do the breeding cats and resulting kittens seem like beloved family members?" They should all be treated as pets, even if a quasi-professional cattery facility exists. The adults should be friendly, clean and healthy, and delighted to meet you. The kittens should be curious, healthy and affectionate. Most breeders have some kind of health problems from time to time - so you might see a sneezy kitten once in awhile. A good breeder will tell you what the problem is, what they are doing about it, and what they expect the prognosis will be. A bad breeder will ignore or deny that a problem exists.

Most important? Shop around - do your homework on researching the breed - and trust your instinct. Never, ever buy a kitten if you have any hesitation - there's lots to choose from. And if you shop wisely, you will end up with a terrific kitten who will be the very best choice in the whole world, and enhance your life for years to come. But be smart about it!

Questions to Ask a Breeder

You are making a big investment, in both money and time, and should make sure that you are getting the very best kitten you can. Ask the following questions of any breeder you contact. A vague answer or two might be expected, but most of these questions should be answered to your satisfaction - or go elsewhere. And most of all, does the breeder seem friendly and anxious to answer your questions? If they seem annoyed with you, move on. Most of us are proud of what we do, and happy to hear from informed pet buyers who have done their research and are asking a lot of questions - it makes us feel more confident in the commitment the pet buyer intends to make to this kitten. Always ask, right up front, if this is a good time to talk. And remember, many of us show on most weekends, so don't feel ignored if it takes a week or so to get a return phone call. Always give a breeder two tries (leave messages) - don't give up if you don't hear from them five minutes after your last call. Most breeders are courteous enough to return the call, even if they have no kittens available right now - and most also are gracious enough to refer you to someone else in the area if they have no kittens but know someone who does. Those are usually good recommendations to follow.

l. Do you show your cats? Do you have a registered cattery? All legitimate breeders will answer "yes" to both questions. Now, of course, there are exceptions to the first part - maybe the breeder has recently moved, had a baby, or has some other legitimate reason for taking a break. It is NOT an acceptable answer if the breeder proclaims there is no reason for showing. Showing your cats is not about (necessarily) obtaining titles or acclaim for a cat, and experienced exhibitors are not an elitist, unfriendly bunch. We show our cats to improve our breeding programs, to subject our cats to the evaluation of judges and other exhibitors, and to maintain contacts with the established breeding community, who share a wealth of knowledge about all aspects of the MC, including health problems. Showing is how we find appropriate outcrosses, compare our results to others, share concerns, and develop a group of "shoulders to cry on" when we are having a problem. We also have a darn good time!

There is no excuse for not having a registered cattery. If you don't know what this means, look at a purebred cat's name - it has three parts. "Stormwatch's Havok of Purrfection" is a typical example. "Stormwatch", the first part, is the name of the registered breeder. The second part of the name, "Havok", is the cat's name. The third part indicates the registered owner of the cat. If a cat is kept by the original breeder, you won't see any "of" designation. The breeder's name is the most important part. The name of the breeder follows the cat throughout its show career, and is on the pedigrees forever. We take pride in our cats, and our cattery name is the identifier for many generations to come. A BYB or pet shop could care less.

One other advantage to buying a kitten from a breeder who shows - since we can't determine who is going to be "pet" and who is going to be "show" until much later, kittens ALL have to be raised as potential show cats. This means they need to get used to bathing, grooming, claw clipping, riding in the car, and greeting strangers at an early age. In addition, top show cats generally have a superior disposition - they are trusting, laid-back, and fond of people in general. They pass these qualities on to their kids in most cases.Show cats are necessarily bred for temperament.

2. Can I see the pedigree? Nope, you really don't know much about who those cats are in the pedigree, but you sure as heck can identify a mother/son or brother/sister breeding. This can happen in the finest cattery, and doesn't usually cause a problem - but we call these breedings "oops", and will tell you that this was an accident. BYB's typically do a lot of "linebreeding" or inbreeding, since legitimate breeders won't sell them cats. So they tend to keep their own offspring, and then breed back to its relatives out of necessity. Ask the breeder how they feel about linebreeding - most of us try very hard to use outcrosses as much as possible, believing this is the healthiest combination for the cats.

Reputable breeders will be happy to show you the pedigree, and are usually proud to point out the many titled cats - champions, grand champions, regional or national winners - in your kitten's background. Beware a pedigree that has lots of cats that have no cattery names prefixing the ancestors. And these titles do mean something = that the cat has been repeatedly judged, by several different judges, to meet the standard of the MC. At least one of your kitten's parents, if not both, should have a title. One exception - the two major cat associations (CFA and TICA) do not recognize each other's titles, so you may see one side of the CFA pedigree totally devoid of titles - since the ancestors were shown only in TICA and may have been the best cats in the country in that organization. But ask for an explanation.

3. What are the health problems of this breed? A bad answer is "none" - it's just not true. As in all pedigreed animals, the MC has some potential inherited problems. The breeder should not only identify these breed health problems, but should tell you what they are doing to try to prevent these things from happening in their offspring. This is one reason the established show/breeders stay in touch - we share information freely and often. BYB's may tell you that the breed is perfectly healthy and that there is no problem. This is equivalent to the used-car salesmen telling you the car was only driven by an old lady to church on Sundays. Beware.

If you ask a BYB "how much Heidi Ho is in your pedigrees?" they will answer Huh? There's nothing wrong with Heidi Ho pedigrees, but they were used extensively early in the development of the MC, and most breeders are careful to identify how much of this line is in their cats. They will look at you askance if you ask this question, but will have an answer. BYB's will have no idea what you are talking about

4. How old will the kitten be before it comes home? Ten weeks is minimum, most breeders hold kittens until 12 weeks or maybe longer. MC's are a slow developing breed, and need a long period of nurturing from both their mothers and breeders. Kittens develop their sense of bonding with humans between 2 and l0 weeks of age - it's wrong to break their bond to their FIRST "human" - the breeder - any earlier. They also have not developed their immune systems or had their necessary shots before l0 weeks of age. Any breeder selling kittens younger than this is more interested in moving the kittens out and getting the money than in raising healthy, stable, happy kittens. At about l2-l3 weeks, a MC kitten is going to be gaining a quarter to half pound a week, and is confident and ready to bounce right into its new home with confidence. Don't worry - they may be "big", but they are still "babies"!

5. Will the kitten be registered? It's kind of silly to have a purebred cat and not register it - the cost is less than $l0. Generally, the breeder will provide the "blue slip", or official registration, when you notify the breeder that the kitten has been neutered.

6. Will I get a contract and written health warranty? You should. And read the contract specifications carefully. Most breeders will be requiring that the kitten be kept strictly indoors, not declawed, not shown without permission, and neutered at a specific age. Another clause in most contracts is that this kitten may not be transferred to anyone else without obtaining the breeder's permission (hey, we interviewed YOU!)...and that, if for some reason you cannot keep this cat in the future, the breeder must be given the opportunity to take the cat back and assist in finding it a new home. This is because a nightmare to a legitimate breeder would be to find out that one of his/her cherished kittens ended up in a pound. This should never, ever happen.

Your health warranty will spell out your rights. State laws vary, but most warranties will cover a specific period of time for which the breeder remains liable. Check carefully over the specfics - and ask the breeder if you have questions about it.

7. What if I want a show cat? Most breeders are happy to mentor someone through the show process, once you have demonstrated a true commitment to the time and money required. The best way to do this is to buy a "show quality cat", neuter it, and show it in premiership ( the neutered cat equivalent to championship). If you get hit with the show bug, you'll have a lot of contacts and experience if you then decide to go ahead and establish a breeding program.

8. What if I want to breed? A BYB will be happy to sell you breeding rights to the cat for extra money. Don't do it. First, you will find it impossible to find a stud cat for your female from a legitimate breeder to breed to. The converse is, no legitimate breeder is going to want to obtain stud service from your male either. Legitimate breeders get these calls all the time - and none of us believe in just plain" breeding for the sake of breeding". We think that the majority of breeding cats should be titled - and the chance of you having gotten a true show quality cat from a BYB is about zero. You will not have had a mentor with experience with the established show/breeding community, and by selling you breeding rights, the BYB has created another BYB - you! If you really think you want to be a breeder, then you need to do a lot of research and learning, and you need to do that by becoming involved in the established community of breeders and exhibitors. You will also find that being a BYB is difficult, with an educated public. This is not a way to make money, and the "joy" of having kittens around is balanced - sometimes inequitably - with the tragedies. It takes a strong stomach to survive the bad times. If you are SURE you want to be a breeder, then get the very best start you can, by working with the very best breeder you can find, to mentor you and help you along.

9. Do you give your own shots? This answer can surely be "yes", but be careful. Many experienced breeders give their own shots, but they should also be making sure that each kitten has at least one veterinary exam before it goes. In some states, health certificates must be obtained from the vet before the kitten can be sold. Don't buy a kitten that has not been examined by a veterinarian. Back to the used car example, you definitely would want a mechanic to check the car out first to make sure no serious damage already exists!

And finally, there are surely Questions the Breeder Should Ask You!

A good breeder is trying hard to make sure that the kittens get great new parents, and that the parents get an affectionate, healthy and beautiful kitten that fits into their lifestyle. They will want to know if you have children - and if so, how old are the kids and what is their experience with animals so far? Do you have other pets? How did you lose your last cat? Are any of the cats in your home allowed outdoors? Do you have a veterinarian? Don't be surprised if some of the questions seem personal - these kittens are not commodities to the reputable breeder. They are little lives that we have planned, assisted in their births, raised with love, and probably have slept on our heads for the past three months. We want to make sure they are going to great new homes, or we would prefer to keep them ourselves. Beware the breeder who asks you no questions - because it is obvious that they are more concerned with the money than in giving a kitten a fabulous new home, and the parents a fabulous new fur child.

One of the oldest natural breeds in North America, the Maine Coon is generally regarded as a native of the state of Maine (in fact, the Maine Coon is the official Maine State Cat).

A number of attractive legends surround its origin. A once wide-spread, though biologically impossible, belief is that the breed originated from matings between semi-wild, domestic cats and raccoons. This myth, bolstered by the bushy tail and the most common coloring (a raccoon-like brown tabby) led to the adoption of the name "Coon Cat" which eventually was changed to "Maine Coon Cat." Another popular theory on the origin of the Maine Coon is that it sprang from the six pet cats which Marie Antoinette is said to have sent to Wiscasset, Maine when she was planning to escape, with the help of New England seaman Captain Clough, from France during the French Revolution. In fact, the house that Capt. Clough was said to have built for her still stands across the Sheepscott river from Wiscassett in Edgecomb, Maine.

Most breeders today believe that the breed originated in matings between preexisting shorthaired domestic cats and overseas longhairs (perhaps Angora types introduced by New England seamen, or longhairs brought to America by the Vikings).

First recorded in cat literature in 1861 with a mention of a black and white cat named "Captain Jinks of the Horse Marines," Maine Coons were popular competitors at early cat shows in Boston and New York. A brown tabby female named "Cosie" won Best Cat at the 1895 Madison Square Garden Show.

Unfortunately, their popularity as show cats declined with the arrival in 1900 of the more exotic Persians. Although the Maine Coon remained a favorite cat in New England, the breed did not begin to regain its former widespread popularity until the 1950's when more and more cat fanciers began to take notice of them, show them, and record their pedigrees. In 1968, six breeders formed the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association to preserve and promote the breed. Today, our membership numbers over 1200 fanciers and 200 breeders. By 1980, all registries had recognized the Maine Coon, and it was well on its way to regaining its former glory.

Maine Coons were well established more than a century ago as a hardy, handsome breed of domestic cat, well equipped to survive the hostile New England winters. Nature is not soft-hearted. It selects the biggest, the brightest, the best fighters, and the best hunters to breed successive generations. Since planned breedings of Maine Coons are relatively recent and carefully monitored, these cats still have their strong, natural qualities. Maine Coons are healthy, disease-resistant, rugged cats. Interestingly, the breed closest to the Maine Coon is the Norwegian Forest Cat which, although geographically distant, evolved in much the same climate, and lends credence to the theory that some of the cats responsible for developing the Maine Coon were brought over by the Vikings.

Everything about the Maine Coon points to its adaptation to a harsh climate. Its glossy coat, heavy and water-resistant, is like that of no other breed, and must be felt to be truly appreciated. The coat is longer on the ruff, stomach, and britches to protect against wet and snow, and shorter on the back and neck to guard against tangling in underbrush. The coat falls smoothly, and requires little maintenance – a weekly combing is all that is usually required to keep it in top condition. The long, bushy tail which the cat wraps around himself when he curls up to sleep can protect him from cold winters. His ears are more heavily furred (both inside and on the tips) than most breeds for protection from the cold, and have a large range of movement. Big, round, tufted feet help them negotiate uneven terrain and serve as "snow shoes." Their large eyes and ears are also survival traits, serving as they do to increase sight and hearing. The relatively long, square muzzle facilitates grasping prey and lapping water from streams and puddles.

Although the Yankee myth of 30-pound cats is just that, a myth (unless the cat is grossly overweight!), the Maine Coon is one of the largest domestic breeds. They are tall, muscular, and big-boned; males commonly reach 13 to 18 pounds, and females normally weigh about 9 to 12 pounds. Add to that two or three inches of winter coat, and people will swear that they're looking at one big cat.

Maine Coons develop slowly, and don't achieve their full size until they are three or four years old. Their dispositions remain kittenish throughout their lives; they are big, gentle, good-natured goofs – the gentle giants of the cat world. Even their voices set them apart from other cats; they have a distinctive, chirping trill which they use for everything from courting to cajoling their people into playing with them. Maine Coons love to play, and many will joyfully retrieve small items. They rarely meow, and when they do, that soft, high-pitched voice doesn't fit their size!

The important features of the Maine Coon are the head and body shape, and the texture and "shag" of the coat. The head is slightly longer than it is wide, presenting a gently concave profile with high cheekbones and ears that are large, wide at the base, moderately pointed, and well tufted inside. They are set well up on the head, approximately an ear's width apart. Lynx-like tufting on the top of the ears is desirable. The neck should be medium-long, the torso long, and the chest broad. The tail should be at least as long as the torso. One of their most distinctive features is their eyes, which are large, round, expressive, and set at a slightly oblique angle. Overall, the Maine Coon should present the appearance of a well-balanced, strongly-built, rectangular cat.

Throughout their history there has been no restriction on the patterns and colors acceptable, with the exception of the pointed Siamese pattern. As a result, a wide range of colors and patterns are bred. Eye colors for all coat colors range through green, gold, and hazel (green-gold). Blue eyes and odd eyes (one blue eye and one gold, green, or hazel eye) are also permissible in white cats. There is no requirement in the Maine Coon Standard of Perfection for particular combinations of coat color and eye color. The only color-related restrictions in Maine Coons intended for breeding are buttons, lockets, or spots on any solid color (tabbies or non-tabbies without white), and deafness in white cats.

Many people consider Maine Coons the perfect domestic pets, with their clown-like personalities, very affectionate natures, amusing habits and tricks, willingness to "help" with any activity, and easily groomed coats. They make excellent companions for large, active families that also enjoy having dogs and other animals around. Their hardiness and ease of kittening make them a satisfying breed for the novice breeder. For owners wishing to show, the Maine Coon has reclaimed its original glory in the show ring. Welcome a Maine Coon into your home, and you will join the thousands who sing the praises of this handsome and lovable cat!

Veterinary Guidelines for Maine Coon Breeders
by Mary D. McCauley, D.V.M. - Kenland Maine Coon Cats
Reprinted with permission

Virus Testing:

All newly acquired kittens and cats should be isolated from other kittens and cats for a period of four weeks to be observed for signs of illness. Toward the end of this isolation period, the kittens/cats should be tested for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV); this is accomplished by a simple blood test. Kittens/cats which test positive for either or these viruses should have follow-up testing and must be kept in strict isolation pending the outcome of confirmatory or follow-up tests. Both of these viruses are contagious (FeLV more so than FIV), incurable and ultimately fatal, although cats can live with FIV for quite a long period of time with good veterinary care (up to several years). It is imperative that these viruses be kept out of a breeding cattery.

Ideally, both studs and queens should be tested for FeLV and FIV before each breeding when the cats have different owners or reside in different households. If a stud is used frequently, then testing at least twice a year is recommended. All queens should be tested before each outside breeding, and once a year otherwise.

Blood testing for feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) is not highly specific for this viral disease; however, if an antibody test is performed in a cat which appears healthy, then a negative result is probably meaningful (i.e., the cat has not been exposed to feline coronaviruses). A positive result on a blood antibody test may indicate exposure to a related but not life-threatening virus, feline enteric coronavirus, (FeCV) or may indicate that the cat could have feline infectious peritonitis. Research is ongoing in this very important area. FIP can only be definitively diagnosed by histopathology (microscopic examination of suspicious tissue) from tissue obtained by exploratory surgery or necropsy (post-mortem examination). However, a high and rising FIP titer along with other clinical signs of this disease does suggest that a cat has this incurable and fatal illness.

Vaccination:

The minimum recommended vaccination protocol includes vaccination against feline panleukopenia (feline distemper), feline calicivirus, and feline herpesvirus (a "3-way vaccine") at 9 and 12 weeks of age. Vaccination beginning at 6 weeks of age is strongly recommended. If a cattery has had an outbreak of either calicivirus or herpesvirus, then the use of an intranasal vaccine against these two viruses is strongly recommended at 3 weeks of age, with 3- or 4-way vaccination begining at 6 weeks. Vaccination against chlamydia, which also causes upper respiratory disease, is recommended if needed (it is included in "4-way" feline vaccines); however, the immunity produced against chlamydia is shorter than for the other upper respiratory diseases, and should be boostered at 6 month intervals for maximum effectiveness. There are products available with contain only the chlamydia vaccine, which could be used for this purpose if needed. At this time, I recommend annual boosters for 3-way vaccinations in cattery situations, although studies are underway to determine the actual duration of immunity. For the usual neutered or spayed pet cat that lives strictly indoors, and either individually or in small groups, after the cat is boostered at approximately 1 year of age, boosters for the core vaccines should be continued every 3 years under recently published American Association of Feline Practitioner guidelines. The core vaccines are defined as those vaccines against panleukopenia (feline distemper), calici virus, and herpes virus. The AAFP also recommends rabies vaccination every 3 years (using a product licensed specifically for every three year use, not an annual rabies vaccine) where required by law.

Queens should be boostered 2-3 weeks or more before breeding. Pregnant queens should never be vaccinated with a modified live vaccine; however, if a pregnant queen is very overdue for her annual booster vaccination, then an all-killed 3-way vaccine should be given at mid-gestation (about 3-4 weeks before her due date). This will allow her to have good antibody levels in her blood and also in her colostrum once the kittens are born.

There are a variety of feline leukemia vaccines available which are both safe and effective, however, not all are equally effective. Vaccination against feline leukemia is optional and not medically necessary in a completely closed cattery which isolates and screens all incoming kittens and cats for FeLV (and FIV) as described above. However, it does provide an additional measure of protection in catteries that provide or receive outside stud service. Vaccination against FeLV does not substitute for diligent testing, however.

If a cattery houses any breeding cats outdoors, or owns any other cats which are indoor/outdoor pets, then FeLV vaccination is recommended. These cats are at risk because they are potentially exposed to free-roaming cats of unknown FeLV status, and FeLV could be transmitted through repeated contact with an infected cat through a wire enclosure. The first vaccination is at 9 weeks or older, with an initial booster 3 weeks later. Annual boosters are recommended for cats at risk. A blood test for FeLV is strongly recommended before vaccination; it is not harmful to vaccinate a FeLV-positive cat, but it won't help either, and may lead to a false sense of security.

There is no vaccine available at this time against FIV. Fortunately, this virus is the least contagious, generally requiring either contact with infected blood (i.e., fighting) or from sex. Outdoor, indoor/outdoor, and breeding cats are at greatest risk. It is related to the human AIDS virus (HIV), but is absolutely not transmissible to humans.

There is an FDA-approved intranasal vaccine on the market at this time against FIP (Primucell). It is thought to be safe, although its effectiveness is widely questioned in the veterinary medical community, and its routine use is not recommended by most veterinarians. Another drawback to this vaccine is that its use does create antibodies which will show up on the routinely used (but not highly specific) blood screening test for FIP, so a positive result in a vaccinated cat is very difficult to interpret.

There is also a vaccine available which may help in the treatment of dermatophytosis, commonly called ringworm (Microsporum canis, a fungus). The organism that most commonly causes ringworm is a fungus which is highly contagious, and is shared among cats, dogs, and humans. There are other species of fungus which can also cause ringworm, and this vaccine would not be helpful in such cases. Definitive diagnosis is made by culturing hair samples from suspected cats; however, ringworm has a fairly typical appearance and can be presumptively diagnosed by your veterinarian based on the appearance of the skin lesions. The vaccine does not prevent ringworm, but it appears to improve the immune response of affected cats and allow them to recover and clear the fungus somewhat faster than unvaccinated cats. Ringworm often requires aggressive, long-term treatment which may include a combination of topical dips, oral medication, disinfection and vaccination.

Rabies vaccination may be required for kittens and cats in some states, counties and cities. It is also required in some states even for kittens and cats being shown from out of state. Rabies is extremely uncommon in exclusively indoor cats since they must be bitten by another rabid animal in order to contract this disease. Depending on what part of the country you live in, rabies may be prevalent in raccoons, foxes, skunks, coyotes and/or bats. Indoor/outdoor cats and cats housed outdoors should be vaccinated against rabies even if not required by law, except in Hawaii and in some rabies-free foreign countries in which such vaccination is not performed. Rabies is a public health issue since humans contract this disease from domestic and wild animals. It is invariably fatal in animals, and can be fatal in humans if they are not treated before symptoms appear. At present, there are more reported cases of rabies in cats than in dogs.

Parasites:

It is very important to keep indoor kittens and cats free from internal and external parasites. Of the internal parasites, tapeworms are the easiest to identify (the proglottids, or egg packets, look like rice grains, and when "fresh" are mobile) and the most common species in cats is transmitted by fleas. Control of tapeworms involves oral medication plus flea eradication, or the cats will become reinfected. Roundworms and hookworms are rare in indoor catteries, but if there is a problem, it is readily controlled with oral medication.

External parasites include fleas, ear and body mites. Not all ear infections involve ear mites; a simple microscopic exam of an ear swab by your veterinarian can detect ear mites or their eggs, if present. Body or mange mites are fortunately uncommon in cats, especially indoor cats. Ear and body mites are generally easily treated in cats.

Fleas are widespread througout the U.S., and are a year-round problem in the southern states. Fleas are the most common cause of allergic dermatitis in cats, carry one common species of tapeworm, and severe infestations can cause anemia and even death in young kittens. Indoor catteries, even those with no dogs in the household, are not guaranteed to be free of fleas. Flea control involves treating the cats, the house, and often the yard. A full discussion of the scope of flea control products is beyond the scope of this Advisory. In general, however, one should avoid shampoos or other products unless they are specifically labeled for use in cats; dogs can tolerate many products which cats cannot. Pyrethrin (a marigold extract) products are among the safest and most effective products to use on cats to kill adult fleas. Insect growth regulators greatly improve the effectiveness of flea treatment, and include methoprene (Precor) and fenoxycarb, found in some flea "bombs" and sprays, as well as lufeneron (Program), an oral prescription product. Newer topical prescription products like Advantage and Frontline are very effective at killing adult fleas, and a single dose works for about one month. Proban, an oral product designed for use in dogs, had been used in cats "off label" for many years; however, there are now better and safer products which are label-approved for cats, including Program, Advantage and Frontline. More "natural" ways to control fleas include borax or diatomaceous earth treatments, and citrus-based shampoos. Dips, because they are designed to leave a residual chemical on the coat, are less safe for cats than for dogs, and must be used with caution. All flea products should be used exactly according to label directions.

Cats are also susceptible to heartworm disease. Cases of feline heartworm disease have been identified in 38 states. The immature larvae of this parasite are carried by mosquitos, and while much more common in dogs than in cats, can infect cats with serious consequences including sudden death. In areas where canine heartworm disease is very prevalent, it may also be worthwhile to consider monthly heartworm prevention for cats. Mosquitos do gain indoor access, and heartworm disease has been diagnosed in strictly indoor cats. Treatment of this disease in cats is not as safe or effective as in dogs.

Genetic Disorders:

Maine Coon cats are unfortunately subject to at least two serious genetic (hereditary) disorders, hip dysplasia (HD) and hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). The precise gene(s) for these disorders have not yet been identified, but research is ongoing in the hope that both affected cats and carriers can be identified at an early age. 20

At present, hip dysplasia is best identified by x-rays of the hips. Hip dysplasia is a developmental abnormality of the hip joint. Preliminary hip x-rays should be taken at approximately 8-12 months of age, before a cat is first used for breeding. Final hip x-rays should be taken at 24 months of age. Certification by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA), a panel of board-certified veterinary radiologists, is recommended. Copies of the OFA evaluation, regardless of the result, should also be sent to the cat's breeder. Only cats with hips graded fair or better (good, excellent) should be used for breeding. Cats which have been identified as having any grade of hip dysplasia must not be used for breeding.

Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is a disorder in which the heart muscle becomes abnormally thick and decreases the effectiveness of the heart, eventually resulting in heart failure and/or embolism (blood clots). It can be diagnosed by echocardiography (cardiac ultrasound examination) which should be performed and interpreted by a board-certified veterinary cardiologist. Some affected cats and kittens have an audible heart murmur, while others do not, so the absence of a heart murmur is not definitive evidence that a kitten or cat is normal. It is recommended that an initial echocardiogram be performed before a cat is bred for the first time, and that another one be performed at approximately two years of age. This disease is treatable, but can result in sudden death in older kittens and young adult cats. Sudden death in breeding cats or kittens should be investigated by necropsy (post-mortem examination) performed by either your regular veterinarian or a veterinary pathologist.

Deafness is a concern with solid white cats of all breeds, including Maine Coon cats. Deafness is associated with the dominant W gene which produces the solid white phenotype. Approximately 60% of all solid white longhaired cats are deaf. Deafness is somewhat more likely in blue-eyed or odd-eyed whites, but on an absolute numerical basis there are more deaf green- or gold-eyed whites than any other eye color. The absence or presence of a colored spot on a kitten's head does not indicate at all whether that kitten is more or less likely to be deaf. Deaf cats should not be used for breeding. Solid white to solid white breedings should not be done since this further increases the likelihood of producing deaf kittens. It is also suspected that solid white to "with white" (i.e., tabby with white, bicolor) breedings also increase the probability of producing deaf white kittens.

Breeding:

There are many excellent resources providing detailed information on kitten rearing and husbandry. A queen should not be bred until she is at one year of age unless she has had at least two estrus cycles (heats). Under no circumstances should a female kitten under 8 months of age be intentionally bred. Male kittens may be potent and physically able to breed as early as 5 months of age, although intentional use as a stud should not begin before 8 months of age. Queens should not be bred more often than twice a year unless one or more of the litters are very small (1-2 kittens). Queens who have large litters should be given proportionately more reproductive rest. Ideally, studs should have brief periods of reproductive rest in between queens (approximately one week).

For testing and vaccination recommendations with respect to breeding, see the appropriate sections above.

The normal gestation period for cats is 63-70 days, with 63-67 being more usual. The gestation period is counted from the first day of breeding. Pregnant queens should be fed a high quality diet, preferably a kitten/growth formula, during gestation and lactation. Vitamin or calcium supplementation is neither necessary nor desirable for cats eating a commercially available feline diet, and may in fact contribute to the problem it is hoped to prevent (eclampsia). However, supplemental feeding of a small amount of cottage cheese or plain yogurt is safe and acceptable. Feeding a predominantly dry diet is probably more practical and comfortable for late-term and nursing queens, since it is much more nutritionally dense than canned food.

A queen's body temperature drops 1-2 degrees (often to 100 degrees or lower) in the 24 hours immediately before parturition (birth). A queen needs to be provided with an isolated, quiet, warm and clean environment in which to have her kittens. It is strongly recommended that breeders isolate queens within a week before birth, and keep them and their kittens isolated from the rest of the household/cattery cats until 3 months of age. Ideally, each litter should be isolated from other litters to the maximum extent possible.

Disposable bed/chair pads designed for use in human incontinence are ideal to line the queening box. Two or three layers of these pads may be placed on top of each other, and removed as needed to minimize disturbing the queen and kittens during the first hours of life. There should be one placenta for every kitten delivered, and the queen may eat none, a few, or all of these. The queen should break the sac which encloses each kitten immediately after birth, begin licking the kitten vigorously (especially the face/head), and then bite through the umbilical cord. 20

Human intervention is required if the queen fails to do this (most commonly with first-time mothers); the sac may be broken with clean hands, and the mucus/fluid wiped from the kitten's face and body with a clean washcloth or towel. The cord may be cut with sterilized scissors (using ordinary rubbing/isopropyl alcohol), leaving about 1/2-3/4" attached to the kitten. Do not tug or pull on the umbilical cord; excessive pressure can create an umbilical hernia. 20

The stump of the umbilical cord should then immediately have Betadine (tamed povidone iodine) solution or gel placed on it; the gel remains on the stump longer. It is safe for the queen to lick this off, although it should be reapplied as needed until the stump dries (usually about 24 hours). Betadine should be applied whether the queen or the breeder breaks the umbilical cord to help prevent infection of the umbilicus.

Kittens should be kept warm, clean and dry. They cannot regulate their body temperature like adults until several weeks of age. However, a heating pad is generally not necessary for kittens raised indoors at comfortable, draft-free room temperature; the queen's body heat is generally sufficient to keep the litter warm. If a heating pad must be used, it should be kept on its lowest setting with a heavy layer of towels on top to help diffuse the heat, and the queen must be able to remove the kittens if the queening box becomes too hot. Heating pads must be checked often to ensure that they are not overheating.

The queen's vaginal discharge (lochia) should not persist more than 2-3 days, and should not have a foul odor. A queen which shows any sign of illness (lethargy, poor appetite, fever, dehydration, hot, hard and swollen mammary glands, etc.) should immediately be seen by a veterinarian. Metritis (uterine infection) and mastitis (mammary gland infection) can be serious.

Ideally, kittens should be weighed daily using a small kitchen or postal scale for the first 2-3 weeks of life, then biweekly to weekly until the kittens are weaned. There is wide variability in the rate of growth among different kittens, but any individual's weight should steadily increase. A plateau or decreasing weight trend in a very young kitten generally indicates illness and/or failure to nurse, and requires prompt attention. Recommended vaccination protocols for kittens are given above.

Copyright 1997 Mary D. McCauley, DVM

These guidelines are provided to help you care for your new kitten. These hints, plus tender, loving care, will help you keep your kitten healthy, playful, and affectionate.

ACCLIMATIZATION TIME
Please remember that this is your kitten's first time away from the only home it has ever known, and it will probably be insecure and confused at first. Give the baby time, and don't expect it to be best friends with you right away. Keep the kitten's introduction to other family members and pets as quiet and stress-free as possible and, most of all, give it time to become used to the new surroundings.

Show the kitten its litter box, food, and water as soon as you get it home, and then be prepared for accidents! However, don't spank the baby if it misses its litter box! Rather, pick it up, put it in its box, and make digging motions with its front paws. Young kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are, or suddenly realize that they have to go now -- this is normal, and will pass quickly.

Introduce the kitten to one room at a time; offer encouragement and petting, but allow it to explore in its own time. After it is comfortable and settled down in the first room, allow it to proceed to others. Try not to startle the kitten, and again, remember that this is a stressful time, which brings us to: Stress: Your kitten has had both series of kitten vaccinations and is in good health. However, it is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days. Give lots of petting, soft speech, and encouragement, and you'll find that the kitten will quickly adjust.

Be aware that the kitten will probably cry a lot the first couple of nights. Although it is completely weaned, it is used to being around lots of other cats, and the baby misses mom, litter mates, the smells of 'home,' and is scared and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s), this crying will stop.

Other Pets: If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, one at a time. Do not leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain that they are good friends (this may be several weeks!). One good trick we have found is to give all pets (including the new arrival) a bath about 24 hours after bringing the kitten home. This way everyone smells the same, and will frequently accept each other immediately after. Be certain to give the 'old' pets lots of attention, in order to keep them from being jealous and to avoid stirring territorial instincts too strongly. It is always possible that the original pet may not take too kindly to someone new using its litter pan/food dish. Be prepared for this by giving the new kitten its own litter pan and food and water dishes.

FOOD -- WHAT KIND, HOW MUCH, HOW OFTEN?
Your kitten is completely weaned, and has been eating ________ canned food ____ times a day. There is also __________ dry food available at all times, and, of course, plenty of fresh water. Please introduce the kitten to any new foods gradually to avoid upsetting its stomach. New foods should be mixed with the food the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively.

Treats won't hurt the kitten's health so long as they don't exceed 10% of the diet. If you make a regular habit of giving a treat after you finish eating, the kitten will learn to look forward to it and won't bother you, your family, or your guests while you eat, but will wait patiently.

Contrary to popular belief, cow's milk often isn't good for cats, as most can't digest it properly, and consequently get diarrhea.

We recommend metal or china dishes. Plastic dishes can harbor germs in the surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is small pimples on the chin, which cause swelling and discomfort, and can be very difficult to clear up. If this problem arises, consult your vet for the best method of treatment.

Please heat up any refrigerated food before feeding it to the kitten (food should be served at room temperature). If you heat food in the microwave, be sure to stir it up thoroughly before offering it to the kitten. Microwaves tend to get food very hot in some places, and not hot at all in others, and you don't want the kitten to burn its mouth.

CARE -- DO'S AND DON'TS
Because such potentially fatal feline diseases as Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), Feline Aids (FIV) (no, it's not contagious to humans), and respiratory viruses are common - not to mention automobiles, predators, cruel humans, and other hazards - we require that you not allow your kitten to run freely outside. (Even if the kitten has been vaccinated against FeLV and FIP, it may still be at risk of infection.) If you choose to ignore this requirement, the chances are good that your kitten will not survive its first year, and you will be in violation of your contract. If, however, you keep the kitten inside, or only take it out on a leash (as described below) life expectancy is 12 years or more.

Safety: Before you let your new kitten loose in your home, check for the following safety hazards:

Electrical and phone cords left dangling

Toilet lids left up (a kitten can easily drown in a toilet bowl)

Open firescreens

Open stairways

Reclining chairs and hide-a-beds (the mechanism of these can easily crush a kitten who has crawled inside)

Hideaway (Murphy) beds (again, they can crush a kitten caught in the mechanism)

Fringe or any loose trim (kittens have been known to strangle when their heads get twisted in the fringe or in a hole between trim and fabric.)

Dangling drapery cords (another invitation to strangulation)

Accessible garbage (especially any kind of bones -- bones can either splinter and perforate the stomach or intestines, or form an intestinal blockage)

Needles and/or thread; knitting and/or crocheting materials

Rubber bands (which can wrap around the intestines)

Plastic wrap (the kitten can eat it, strangle on it, or suffocate in it)

Plastic bags (a kitten can become trapped and suffocate, or get its head tangled in the loop and panic)

Styrofoam (especially packing "peanuts") which the kitten may eat

Cigarettes (yes, they'll eat them)

Yarn toys (if they come unraveled, they can wrap around the intestines or block them)

Toys with easily removed and swallowed parts

Cellophane (it turns glassy in the stomach and can cause internal lacerations)

Christmas tree needles, tinsel, and decorations

Open refrigerators, dishwashers, microwaves, ovens, washers, dryers -- always check for kittens before shutting or turning on any appliance!

Put away feathers and toys attached to string (such as kitty teasers) after use. Kittens and cats will often eat feathers and swallow string.

Keep your workshop off limits. Cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power saws. They may also swallow screws, nails, wire, and other small parts.

Kittens like to taste about everything. Keep all cleaning products and other chemicals stored away and out of reach. Anything with phenyl (check the label) is deadly to cats (this includes Lysol).

Cats love to drink out of toilet bowls, so it's wise not to use anything in your toilet. The best disinfectant to use is one part bleach to 30 parts water. Remember, kittens lick their paws, so be careful what you use on your floors and counters.

Cats love certain scents, and one of their favorites is antifreeze, which will kill a cat in short order. If your kitten should get into anti-freeze and you discover it in time, RUN to the nearest vet or emergency clinic.

Keep the numbers of your local poison control center, your vet, and the emergency clinic posted by your phone.

Poisonous Plants: The following plants are in some degree poisonous or hazardous to cats: Anemone, black cherry, bloodroot, buttercup, caladium, castor bean, clematis, crocus, cycads, daphne (splurge laurel), delphinium, dicentra (bleeding heart), dieffenbachia, elephant's ear, english ivy, foxglove, four o'clock, hellebore, hemlock, holly, hyacinth, hydrangea, indian splurge tree, jack-in-the-pulpit, jerusalem cherry, jimson weed, lantana (red sage), larkspur, lily-of-the-valley, mistletoe, morning glory, mountain laurel, oleander, philodendron, poinsettia*, poinciana (bird of paradise), poison ivy, poison oak, pokeweed, rhododendron, solandra (trumpet flower), star of bethlehem (snowdrop), sweet pea, thornapple, wisteria, and yew. * Some experts have removed poinsettia from the list of harmful plants.

Collars and Leashes: If you use a collar on your kitten, check it daily to be sure it isn't becoming too tight as the kitten grows. Conversely, a kitten can easily catch its lower jaw in a too-loose collar. A breakaway collar is the best choice, as it will separate if it becomes caught on something.

If you train your kitten to a leash, use a harness designed for cats -- never a collar (a cat will only struggle against the pull of a collar around its neck, but is more amenable to the behind-the-front-legs tug of a harness). Remember that harnesses are not totally secure, and a cat wearing a harness and leash should NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat may slip out of the harness, or strangle himself on the leash.

Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or on a busy sidewalk unless you're sure the cat is very calm (cats that can be trusted not to panic in these situations are literally one-in-a-million!). The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc., can cause a cat to panic, slip its harness, and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet back yard with you.

Grooming: Maine Coons present little grooming problems. Their coats are easy to maintain, and a weekly combing with a wide-toothed comb (about 9 teeth per inch) followed by a narrow-toothed comb (about 12 teeth per inch) is all that is generally necessary (use a flea comb on the face and ear furnishings). However, you will have to comb your cat more often in the spring and fall, which are seasons of heavy shedding. Pay particular attention to the areas behind and below the ears, the flanks, the britches, between the back legs, and under the front legs. These are the areas where mats most readily form.

If you wish to keep your cat looking like a champion, a bath once a month with a good pet shampoo, followed by blow-drying and a good combing is recommended. If the tail is extra oily (a particular problem with unaltered male cats), rub mechanics' hand cleaner (Goop or Go-Jo) into the dry tail and wash out with Dawn dishwashing liquid. Be sure to rinse all traces of soap out of the coat, and don't ever leave the cat unattended with hand-cleaner on its coat. Your kitten is accustomed to baths, so if you decide to do this, you shouldn't have too much trouble. If the kitten objects to the blow-dryer, place it in its carrier with the dryer propped up about 12 inches from the door. Leave the kitten in the carrier for about 15 minutes, then comb it out and allow it to air dry in a warm, draft-free room. Keep the heat set on low whenever using a blow-dryer on a cat.

Declawing: Declawing is a mutilation, not the minor operation that proponents of this procedure would have you believe, and is expressly forbidden in our contract. Those in favor of declawing point out that most cats can still climb trees after declawing. This is all very well until the cat is cornered without a tree, back to the wall, and has nothing at all for long-range defense. Additionally, a declawed cat is very likely to bite (because it doesn't have its claws for defense) and to refuse to use its litter box (because its mutilated toes hurt when it tries to dig). It is perfectly possible to train your kitten not to scratch your furniture, and keeping its claws clipped will protect your possessions while it is learning its manners.

Provide at least one, or better yet, several scratching posts for your kitten as soon as possible. (The kitten has been used to using one at our house.) Try to get the posts covered with a material of a different texture than your carpeting or upholstery, so the kitten doesn't get confused about which object is O.K. to scratch and which isn't. (A wooden post wound tightly with heavy sisal rope [they don't like nylon or plastic] makes an excellent scratching post.) Encourage and praise the baby when it uses the post; squirt it with a spray bottle of water and shame it when it uses something else (see 'Training' below).

TRAINING
Contrary to widespread belief, cats are trainable by proper methods: rewards and tangible but removed punishment (see 'Spray Bottle Method,' below).

Be firm and patient with your kitten. By teaching it the house rules now, you can avoid future behavioral problems. Actions that are cute in a kitten may not seem so cute in an adult (such as nursing on your arm or sitting on the dining room table). If the kitten scratches its claws where it shouldn't, say "NO," take it to its scratching post, and make scratching motions with its feet. Kittens respond well to a firm voice and patience. They are naturally fastidious, and want to behave.

The Spray Bottle Method: Behavior problems that don't respond to "NO!" can usually be modified by giving the kitten a quick shot of water from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the kitten's mind, which is desirable for two reasons: The kitten doesn't begin to fear you as a source of punishment (as it would if you spank!), and it thinks the water is an 'Act of God,' and will refrain from the undesirable behavior even if you aren't around. (A similar method works to keep your kitten from running outdoors: Stand outside, hose in hand, door open, and spray the kitten when it sets foot outside. After a few times, the kitten will decide that there's nothing out there that it wanted anyway! Another method some friends of ours use as a backup is to attach a water gun with velcro to their front door [they even got a water gun the same color as the door!]. When they go in or out they remove the gun and hold it ready to squirt an errant kitten. Works every time!).

PLAY -- WHEN, HOW LONG, WHAT KIND?
Kittens and adult Maine Coons like to play. Generally, the morning or early evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult cat.

We try to discourage rough play, as this can make the kitten too aggressive. (If the kitten kicks at your hand or bites at your fingers, say "NO," blow in its face, and remove your hand.)

Soft toys with no small, easily removed and swallowed pieces are good toys; a twisted paper attached to a string tied to a stick is wonderful. With it you can go 'fishing for kittens,' and the pouncing and jumping it elicits is great exercise for the kitten. (If you use this type of toy, don't leave the kitten unattended with it; the kitten may well get dangerously tangled in the string.)

Remember that what your kitten needs most is your time and attention. Especially if it is left alone during the day, it will be very glad to see you in the evening, and demand quite a bit of attention. Please remember that kittens are sensitive, living creatures, and don't allow your friends, children, or other pets to mishandle this baby. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat it, even inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love, and considerate play will result in a companion who will give years of joy.

GENERAL NOTES
Booster shots will not be required until the kitten is one year old, unless it is to be shown, exposed to cats who are being shown, exposed to cats brought into the house for breeding, and/or exposed to outdoor cats. In these cases, it should receive booster shots at six-month intervals, to protect it from the stress of exposure to strange viruses.

If you plan on giving the currently available Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and/or Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) vaccines to your kitten, be aware that having had the FeLV and FIP series does NOT guarantee the kitten will be immune to FeLV and FIP; you must be just as careful about exposing the kitten to possible FeLV/FIP-positive cats as you would be if the shots had not been given. We do not recommend or give the FeLV or FIP vaccinations.

We do not use flea collars, first because their effectiveness is questionable and second, because flea collars can cause skin sores on long-haired cats, due to the concentration of poison around the neck. Rather, a good flea powder or spray, available from your vet, is a better solution to the problem of fleas. If your kitten never goes outdoors, this problem probably won't arise.

Congratulations on your new family member! This baby is a real sweetie, and we think you'll be very happy together. If you have any questions, please remember that we are available to provide help and answer questions.

SUPPLIES
Litter box (covered is nice)
Litter box scooper
Litter box liners
Brand of litter recommended: __________
Food (as noted in feeding instructions)
Three china or metal dishes
Scratching posts
Metal combs (9 & 12 teeth per inch)
Flea Comb
Flea shampoo, powder, and spray
Cat carrier (size #100)
Nail clippers for cats
Toys

Return to the Mcats FAQ