Caring For Your Gerbils

Here is my advice to those considering getting gerbils or those who are newcomers to gerbil keeping. If you want further advice, see the Gerbil FAQ.

Topics:

What Is A Gerbil?
Things to Consider First
Proper Gerbil Housing
Gerbil Feeding
Getting Your First Gerbils
Introducing Gerbils
Handling
Health Problems
Behaviors
Other Gerbil Owners

What Is A Gerbil?

A gerbil is a rodent halfway between a rat and a mouse in size. They're usually 2-4 oz, and have a slightly different facial shape than a mouse or rat. Their long tails are also covered in fur and end in a bit of a tuft. Their eyes are deep black or ruby red, and they come in dozens of different colors, from regular agouti, to black, to siamese, to even blue! Gerbils make fun and entertaining pets for both young and old.

Gerbils are fun to watch. Their antics can entertain you for hours. They are also incredibly friendly. They can be taught to climb up your shoulder and can sit there, or on your head ;) I think gerbils make the BEST pets!

Gerbils require a minimum of care. Their homes take up little space, they are low-maintanance because they create little odor, and they do not need frequent vet visits. They also are not as prone to tumors or respiratory problems as, say, mice and rats. They are also very friendly, social, and rarely bite, as is the case with some rodents that will remain anonymous.

Things to Consider First

Before you get your gerbils, you have to decide just what you're looking for. How many do you want? What colors do you prefer? Do you prefer a certain gender? Do you want to breed?

Gerbils are highly social and do not like being alone at all, not like the solitary Syrian hamster. If you're getting gerbils you must get at least two. Lone gerbils have been proven to live shorter, less healthy lives, and are often overweight and not too happy. They also tend to be harder to tame and less friendly overall. Even if you are home all day, and playing with them constantly, this does not make up for the fact that they must sleep alone, eat alone, and have no one to groom them. So a companion is essential. Both females and males will get along happily in same-sex pairs, especially if they are siblings or kept together from the age of 6-8 weeks old. Females tend to be less stable in groups larger than two, while males tend to be a little more tolerant of each other in groups of 3 or more. However for the average gerbil owner I would recommend sticking only to pairs, as sudden fights can occur within a group of either gender.

Gerbils come in a rainbow of colors. I have pictures of many colors on my color spectrum. Additionally, you can consult the Gerbils Color Palette. No one color is better, either in temperament or hardiness, than any other, but sometimes you might prefer the look of one color over another.

You might consider breeding your gerbils, too. I would like to strongly discourage breeding before you have a decent amount of experience. Gerbils, like all rodents, can reproduce quickly, and you might not be prepared for a population explosion. You need time to get used to owning gerbils, get used to their behaviors, illnesses, etc. so you will be a reliable source of information for those that adopt your pups. But, if you have already bred another critter or feel you are definitely ready for it, you may consult my breeding page. If you have bred other animals in the past, I would also like to remind you that gerbils are NOT the same as, say, mice, hamsters, or rats, so don't assume what works with A will work with B. Gerbils have unique behaviors, especially where breeding is concerned, and they won't tolerate things another species will, and vice versa.

Proper Gerbil Housing

Before you get your gerbils, you should have a home ready. An aquarium is ideal, and a wire lid is NECESSARY. 10 to 20 gallons is perfect for a pair of gerbils. If you happen to have 3 or 4 gerbils, then a 20-30gal is preferable. Always make sure you have a wire mesh lid to cover it because gerbils can jump! Never just assume they can't jump that high--they can.

There are other options out there, such as wire cages and plastic Habitrail homes. I don't recommend either of these. Wire cages are often gnawed on incessantly by gerbils, which can be both annoying and harmful to them. They can lose fur on their nose and get rust stains on their coat. They will also kick bedding out of the bars, making a huge mess. As for the plastic setups, these have poor ventilation and smell rather quickly. Additionally, they are easy to escape and easily gnawed to ruins.

In your gerbils' home, you'll want to include some toys. For example, wooden houses, toys full of holes, and wheels. S.A.M. makes excellent wooden chew toys that I recommend. I would discourage using anything but wood sold specifically for small animals, as wood is often treated which can be toxic to gerbils. Some people feel wire wheels pose the hazard of gerbils' tails getting caught. I've found that hanging the wheels from the ceiling of the tank virtually eliminates this risk, but it's up to you whether you want to risk it or not. You can also include cardboard boxes and tubes in your gerbils' home for them to gnaw on and make a nice nest out of.

Gerbils of course require a bedding to absorb their droppings. They don't urinate all that much, so it doesn't need to be perfumed or anything. I recommend only aspen, carefresh, and corncob beddings. Pine and cedar are a definite no-no! They've been known to cause respiratory problems and liver damage as well as other nasty things to small animals of all sorts. You can also include some toilet paper in their cage which they will tear up and make a nice nest out of. Avoid commercially prepared "sleep fluff" because they can choke on this. Also avoid cloth of any type. I would also avoid putting anything from outside or from an unknown source into their home as this can lead to the gerbils catching mites or Tyzzer's disease (which is deadly) if they've been contaminated.

For organization's sake, if you have more than 2 or 3 aquariums you may want to consider getting a shelving unit to keep things neat. I personally recommend the heavy-duty plastic 5-tiered shelving units commonly sold as Walmart, KMart, Target, or Bed, Bath & Beyond (or similar stores). They really work well and it's easy to find some that are the exact size of a 10 gallon aquarium. They also usually cost around or under $20.

The average aquarium, 10 gallons with 2 gerbils in it will need cleaning every 2-3 weeks. If water is spilled in the cage or it just smells, then of course you should clean it anyway.

You'll also want to include some kind of nest house for them to sleep in. I recommend the wooden houses made by S.A.M. You can also take a plastic running ball and suspend it from the side of the tank, these make nice little nooks.

Lilith & Ashwin enjoying their nestbox

Gerbil Feeding

When feeding gerbils, the most important thing to keep in mind is that sunflower seeds are extremely fatty. They love them, they're good treats, but too many can make a chunky gerbil. I feed my gerbils commercially prepared mixes, without too many sunflower seeds. If yours has too many, either switch, or pick a lot of them out and keep them handy for treat time. Food can be served in small dishes sold at stores or made out of small cat food or tuna cans. Some gerbils will dump these over. Just refill it when this happens or, if they do it too often, keep an eye on how much food is in the bedding and give them more when necessary.

If you want to give your gerbils a treat, try things like Cheerios and Rice Krispies cereals (nothing with artificial flavor, sugar, or marshmallow). They also enjoy the occaisional peanut, but those are very fatty. They also enjoy a little apple, carrot, and lettuce but be sure to remove it after 1 day and don't give it to them too often. They also enjoy the occaisionally mealworm but this is unnecessary and I've never done it (ick!)

Gerbils need water all the time! Although they are desert creatures they can't survive without water. I wouldn't recommend feeding them water-filled vegetables, because it's hard to guage if they're getting enough. Also, things like lettuce fill them up and keep them from eating more nutritious food. (Lettuce has NO nutritional value to gerbils). Use a plastic waterbottle with a metal guard to supply water. If you have a problem with your gerbils gnawing holes in these (some do, some don't), there are hard plastic and glass bottles available.

Getting Your First Gerbils

You'll want to carefully consider where you get your gerbils before going out and getting them. While the nearest pet store might sound more convenient, it's not always the best choice. Pet store gerbils can be ill, unused to human hands, and females may be pregnant. The clerk may also missex them. So unless you are sure in the competancy of the local store, know they take good care of their animals, and you feel you can trust them, I wouldn't recommend that. It may turn out to be a disappointing venture.

My first recommendation would be to get them from a breeder. If the breeder is reputable, their babies will be well handled, healthy, and properly sexed. They will also guarantee they're not pregnant and should be willing to answer any and all questions you have. You'll get some background on your gerbils, at least their parents, and might have a better choice of colors. I, of course, am a breeder and I list my available gerbils on my adoption page. If nothing I have catches your attention, or you don't want to ship, then check out the AGS breeder listing for a breeder near you.

If you can't find a good breeder, then a reputable pet store will do. Always make sure the gerbils eyes are bright and shiney, their tail is fully furred, their coat is soft and not rumpled, and no animals in the same cage look ill. This goes for a breeder as well.

I would recommend choosing 2 young gerbils of the same gender, that are about 6-8 weeks old. Then they should get along well. If, for some reason, you can't get them from the same place, at 6-8 weeks of age they will usually get along well anyway. If for some reason your gerbils come from 2 different places and one or both are adults, you will have to use the Split Cage Method to introduce them.

The Split Cage Method

Ideally, you should pick out 2 gerbils that are already living together, or that are between 5 and 8 weeks old. That way you won't have trouble introducing them. However if you can't help it, or if one of your original pair passes away, you'll need to do an introduction. Adult female to adult female is the most risky ones, then adult female to baby female, then adult male to adult male, then adult female to adult male, then adult male to baby male or female. Under no circumstances should just "plop" the newcomer into the existing gerbils' cage. Sometimes, with intros between adult males and an immature (5-8wks) female or male(s), you can just put them in neutral territory for a while and observe for a while, and they will likely not fight. But if the intro is between 2 adult males, or anything involving an adult female, a split cage will be needed.

What you do is this. Get an aquarium, and some kind of divider. You can get a divider made out of screening or wire mesh (with holes smaller than .25in!) to "split" the cage with. The basic idea is to keep the tank divided so the other can't get to the other side & attack the other gerbil, but they can still sniff each other through the bars/mesh. For this I use a wire bottom to a S.A.M. habitat (as you can't use it in the habitat.) You can also use metal lids to tanks (but they fall a bit short of the top so you have to use something else to fill that space!!) or cookie cooling racks.

Once you have this set up, put one gerbil on each side. Then, two to three times a day, physically swap their sides (take one out and put it where the other one was, and vice versa). Do this for a week to 10 days. By then they should be used to scents. Then try to introduce them in neutral territory. Watch them run around for a half hour, and if no fights occur, clean out their tank and put them both in it. Keep them in your sight for a few hours to make sure they don't turn on each other. After about 3 hours of peacefulness it can be assumed they're getting along well. Keep checking them always for bites near the tail or rump; this is a sign of trouble erupting.

A few notes though. Females will often bat at the bars/screen of the split tank. This is alarming but largely normal. It should subside after a few days' adjustment. Also you cannot use this method to introduce groups! Excluding a few immature males to a lone adult male. You CANNOT introduce adult, established groups. At least, I would highly discourage it because you'd likely do more harm than good.

The Split Cage

Handling

Once you have your gerbils, you'll need to get them used to you. You have to gain their trust. With gerbils from breeders, this is usually rather easy but it can be trickier with pet store gerbils or the occaisional disobediant gerb. Firstly, you'll want to give them a few hours to settle into their new home. Then, introduce your hand into their tank and let them sniff. They may nip, this is normal. They're trying to "taste" you, and find out if you're edible. A nip is not all that painful and rarely cuts through the skin. It's also a habit they usually outgrow. Young gerbils are particularly prone to this as it's part of their "put everything in your mouth" stage.

They will cautiously explore your hand for a while. If they appear scared and run away, don't push it. Just put your hand in their cage for several minutes each day. You can also put sunflower seeds or peanuts in your palm to get them to associate tastey things with your hands.

If you want to pick them up, try to scoot them into a corner and gently pick them up. Do *not* chase them as this could alarm them. Swooping down from above will also give them a bit of a fright, as they'll think it's a bird or some other predator. If you can't get them into your hands, then you can start by scooping them up with a tin can or cup. They usually explore these and then you can pick them up once they're inside. Then, take them out and sit them on your arm or shoulder, and let them explore. Gerbils love a good shoulder. Usually they'll run back and forth across your shoulders, down your arm, and perch on your elbow to get a look around. Be careful if they seem jumpy, and you may want to do this sitting down on a chair or bed to keep them from falling.

After a week or two of doing these exercises, the gerbils will usually happily let you pick them up. You can teach them to sit still on your shoulder or elbow while you walk around. Soon they'll start "signaling" when they want out of their cage. They usually do this by standing on their hind legs and resting their forepaws against the glass and hopping up and down a bit. (they usually don't jump up and hit the lid of the cage unless they're actively trying to escape, not just get your attention ;). You should always appease them or they may get cross ;)

Now and then you might get bitten. They usually don't do this unless you do something to deserve it (like grab them too suddenly, drop them, otherwise startle them). Most of the time it happens if you're breaking up a fight between two gerbils you're trying to introduce (obviously that would be a failed introduction!). However on the whole, gerbils rarely bite.

Health Issues

Gerbils are usually very hardy animals and suffer from few illnesses during their lifetime. However, there are a few.

Respiratory problems are most common in young pups or elderly gerbils. It's usually caused by using a bedding such as cedar or pine, or keeping them in damp cages (if the waterbottle leaks and you don't notice, for example). You should keep your gerbils on the recommended beddings and always make sure there are no leaks in order to prevent these. Sometimes older gerbils will get them anyway, though. You should treat both of these cases with Ornacyclene (tetracyclene, it's labled for birds) that you can get at almost any pet store in the USA. (those in Europe will probably have to go to a vet to get a prescription). It's either put in the drinking water or, in the case of young pups, diluted in the proper amount of water and then carefully dropped on the mouth through an eyedropper. Respiratory infections are usually displayed through rumpled coats, chilly feeling, clicking noises.

Tumors Again, these are usually just in elderly, 3 years or so gerbils. The most common type of tumor is a scent gland tumor, on the bare patch of skin on the belly that gerbils use to mark with. It's most common in males but not unheard of in females. These are usually easily operable because they're mostly on the outside of the skin. If you can find a competent vet to perform the operation, then do so. However if your gerbil is 3 or 4 years old it's worth considering the fact that they may not live more than a month or two longer anyway, and surgery can be stressful. If you do take your gerbil in for surgery, for any reason, DO NOT KEEP IT SEPARATE FROM ITS CAGEMATES during recovery. The vet will tell you that their cagemate will try to nibble the stitches out, but if anyone would nibble the stitches it would be the gerbil itself so it's pointless to keep them isolated. Especially considering after a day or two you might not be able to get them together again.

Broken Tails These are usually caused by getting caught on a cage or wheel or by being held by the tail (which is NOT the proper way to handle a gerbil!). Usually this leaves behind an ugly, skinless bone hanging off it's really quite disgusting. But it doesn't require a vet's attention unless it gets infected. Put topical antibiotic (like neosporin or polysporin) on the tail and try to keep things like bedding from getting stuck to it. It will dry up and fall off within a few weeks. It will not grow back.

Strokes/Heart Attacks Strokes are characterized by paralysis, usually down just one side. Gerbils can recover from these, just make sure they are kept warm, eating, and drinking. Sometimes, though, they will have one stroke after another and will pass away shortly after. If you find a gerbil mysteriously dead, this may be what happened. Heart attacks may also be the cause of sudden death. They are most common in elderly gerbils but sometimes young gerbils with health problems will suffer from these too.

Seizures (or "going limp") Some seizures are of the type where the gerbil will twitch, while others cause them to just go limp. This is always very distressing. It is usually triggered by a strange stimulus (like being placed in a new environment) or by being overexcited. In mild cases they will simply go limp when you startle them or place them in a new cage, but in severe cases the gerbil will begin to freeze or twitch at the slightest excuse. The more mild case is somewhat common in gerbils but the major one can be signs of hereditary problems. In either case, put the gerbil back in its usual cage and leave it alone for a few minutes. It should recover fine but it can be very scarey for an owner.

Red Noses Sore, red noses with fur loss is usually caused by an allergy or an infection. If you are using pine or cedar bedding, gerbils are almost always allergic to these and it will cause this reaction. Switch to aspen, carefresh, or corncob bedding. Or, if you don't use pine or cedar, it can be caused by gnawing on metal or plastic which cuts the nose and causes it to get infected. If this is the case then remove the offensive material. Lastly, sometimes gerbils CAN be allergic to aspen, although this is rare. If this is the case with your gerbils, use one of the other beddings or use tissues and cardboard alone. You can apply topical antibiotic to the nose. This also will sometimes spread to the paws and the eyes as they rub their nose in irritation. They frequently look like their eyes are shut and may try to scratch their nose with their hind foot causing a rather odd thumping noise.

Diarrhea/Tyzzer's disease/numerous deaths Gerbils sometimes can catch Tyzzer's disease, which is a deadly disease whose symptoms vary. Death usually occurs 24 hours after symptoms appear. One of the symptoms is diarrhea, but this isn't always necessarily there. If you lose several gerbils, each getting sick and dying within 24 hours, then you could well have an outbreak of Tyzzer's. Quickly put all your other gerbils on Ornacyclene (tetracyclene for birds, sold at most pet stores) which may prevent them from getting sick. This is usually caused by contact with materials that have been in contact with wild creatures. Diarrhea can also be caused by too many greens in the diet. Remove them and they should be OK. One thing you must remember is sick gerbils or those recovering from surgeries should NEVER be separated from their cagemates. Unless you see them picking on them or trying to hurt them, of course. If you notice one of your gerbils is sick do not quaranteen them from their cagemate(s), because by the time they recover they will be forgotten and will be treated as an enemy.

Behaviors

Gerbils do have their behavioral idiosynchrasies! ;)

Thumping

Gerbils when alarmed or excited will make a rhythmic thumping sound with their hindleg. Usually only one gerbil in an enclosure will do this while the others perk up their ears and listen. It's really funny when you have several tanks of gerbils and one gerbil will thump an alarm, and another in another aquarium will thump back! It's their way of communicating danger. It is also associated with mating. Alarm thumping and mating thumping sound different to the trained ear, and to the gerbils as well. While an alarm thump will cause everyone to bolt or freeze up and watch, mating thumps will go ignored by uninterested parties.

Grooming

Grooming is an essential part of gerbil society. Grooming not only keeps them clean, but it's part of their social structure too. A dominant gerbil will groom a submissive gerbil to assert their dominance. This is often seen when two gerbils are first introduced, but of course in order to keep clean it goes on throughout the relationship. They also groom themselves to keep clean. Male gerbils will often groom the female's belly when she is greatly pregnant, which is a comical scene!

Fighting

There are two distinct types of fighting: playfighting, and serious fighting. Play fighting goes on frequently among gerbils, especially young ones, it gives them something to do. They may pounce on the other and tussel a little bit and then end up grooming each other. Serious fighting is characterized by "rolling up in a ball" in a flurry of fur with the two gerbils going at each others' throats, and drawing blood. Once two gerbils have drawn blood it is rare they can be reconciled. This type of fighting is usually only seen when two gerbils are first introduced or if the dominance relationship devolves because of instability in the social order of the aquarium. Groups of 3 or more females are notorious for breaking up in this fashion after a period of months, although this doesn't always happen, but it happens in males too. Also, sometimes groups will suddenly turn on each other when they've been playing in unfamiliar territory for a few minutes. In this case, especially with pairs, they can sometimes be reconciled, but with some pairs this happens again and again so the relationship is likely not a stable one to begin with.

Preventing fighting: use the split cage method for introductions. You still may end up with a fight but it's a lot less likely. Keep females in pairs only and use good judgement when placing together males. Keep an eye out for signs of trouble: bite marks on the belly or rump area are also signs that there is a conflict in the making. Separate the pair or separate the group into smaller units, trying to figure out who the bully is.

Mounting and Marking Behaviors

Occaisionally people are panicked to discover that their two male gerbils or two female gerbils are mating with each other, even though they've had them together for months and are totally sure they're both the same gender. No, your gerbils are not mixed up as to what gender they are, they are "scent marking" each other. To the untrained eye it can look like mating, but it isn't anything close. This is another way of asserting dominance over the submissive party in a group. It's rather normal and no pups will result ;) However if you have doubts about your gerbils' gender, by all means have an expert examine them! Also male gerbils will often be seen rubbing their bellies over objects in their cage. This is scent marking. Gerbils have a bare patch of skin on their bellies which secretes a marking substance which makrs a territory as "theirs".

Digging Madly In The Corner

A lot of people mistake gerbils' habit of digging in the corner of their cages as an urge to get out. It isn't. This is known as "stereotyped digging" and is caused by the gerbils' natural instinct to burrow. It is perfectly normal.

Escapes

Gerbils, being the mad geniuses they are, are sometimes very good at escaping. It is vital that you have a lid on your aquarium and make sure there is no way your gerbils can escape. If they do escape, seal of all exits to every room in your home, put the cats/dogs out or in a small room (that you're SURE the gerbil isn't in!) and start looking. Walk around slowly and quietly. Every now and then, you might give a shout. This will startle the gerbil and you'll be able to hear them scurrying. Sometimes you can even catch them gnawing on things and hear that. Once you figure out what room they're in (they usually stick around the room they start out in first, but then they go exploring--they can even make it down stairs) sit down quietly and wait for them to come out. They usually can't resist investigating. You might be able to grab them yourself (being careful not to grab them by their tail) or you may need to set out a small box or container so that when they walk into it to investigate you can flip it over and pick it up. Some gerbils who are especially fond of their owners have been known to walk right up to them the moment you discover they're missing, or even before you know they're gone! If you absolutely can't get your gerbil out of hiding, or can't find it, set out a number of sunflower seeds on the floor along with a dish of water in that room (or in each room if you can't find them). Count the number of seeds, and check back later. Often you'll find the husks of shells left over, which means the gerbil has been there. Sometimes setting their cage on the floor will also drive them out of hiding, as they consider their home, well, their home.

Behavior Towards Strange Gerbils

Their behavior towards strange gerbils, 99% of the time, is simple: FIGHT! So, do not allow your gerbils to get in contact with gerbils they do not live with. They will see them as an enemy encroaching upon their territory and will attack them. The same goes for cagemates, relatives, and children that they have been separated from for more than 24-48 hours. After this time, they either forget them or decide they're enemies now anyway.

How To Talk To Other Gerbil Owners?

If you have regular email access, you might want to consider signing up for the Gerbil Mailing List (GML). It gets about 40 or so messages a day, with a limit of 100 (this limit is set by the server and it will shut down after 100, so you don't have to worry about it being higher than that). It is a fun place to discuss our favorite pets and learn about them. Discussions occaisionally get heated but don't let that deter you! To subscribe, send an email to LISTSERV@LISTSERV.RICE.EDU with this in the body:

subscribe gerbils your first name your last name

Nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Now, if 50 messages per day is too much, you can set the gerbils list to the digest format, which sends out only a few, long emails per day. You still get all the emails, but not so many at once. To do this, once your subscribed to the list, send a message to LISTSERV@LISTSERV.RICE.EDU with: SET GERBILS DIGEST in the body of the message.

You can also converse with other gerbil owners on alt.pets.rodents newsgroup and at www.acmepet.com's exotic bulliten board.

If I have forgotten anything, or you have any questions or emergencies, feel free to email me at devadair@voicenet.com. I am usually able to answer promptly.

Gerbil Organizations

For gerbil owners in the USA, there is the American Gerbil Society.