I don't recall the exact Holley part number, the Holley site doesn't list it. But I have the Projection 2D, the digital 2bbl Projection not the analog.
It is installed on an 87 Dodge Diplomat w/318, this should be applicable to all Chrysler small blocks from 64 till 92.
The 89 and newer smallblocks already come with TBI, a crude one nonetheless, and the 93 and newer smallblocks have a MPI setup.
The only real modifications I had to make to install this "kit" was adding the Chrysler linkage adapter, sold separately, it does not have provisions for using cruise control so you will need to make your own adapter to do this. I had to space up the included TBI to manifold adapter to clear the EGR valve, I used a stock thick spreadbore carb gasket instead of the thin Holley supplied adapter to manifold gasket. I had to space the air cleaner up with two air cleaner spacers, the kit provides one and I had another, in order to clear the linkage, I am running a Chrysler air cleaner off a 78 Cordoba with a 400. 4bbl equipped Dodge trucks and vans come with an dual snorkel aircleaner that sit up higher and will clear the linkage on the Projection throttle body. The throttle return springs will not clear the linkage if you use the stock mounting bracket, so I used one of the supplied kit throttle brackets, cut off the throttle cable mount part of it, mounted it to the rear driverside adapter to manifold bolt and used it to mount the stock return springs. My car had a 5/16" supply and 1/4" return line, stock. So I bought some 3/8" aluminum fuel line from Super Shops, routed it along the stock lines. This became my supply line and the original 5/16" line became my return. I used a Borg Warner P6 in tank electric fuel pump ($39.99) to replace the stock Holley pump, I bent it with my jack and didn't want to piss away $130 for another.
As I mentioned I bent the kit supplied fuel pump with my jack. I had this real neat stainless mounting plate, it replaced a stock splash guard located between the tank and the rear end, for mounting the pump and filter but in a fit of stupidity I didn't double check the jack's placement on the pumpkin and it slipped off. This resulted in a bent pump, crunched mounting plate, broken filter and lastly, a crushed tank. Since $130 was the average quote for an exact replacement of the Holley pump, and after reading all those glowing reports on it's long life, I did a little hunting.
I have found that Borg Warner makes a pump, P6 is the part number, that is spec'd for GM V8 TBI systems, is an in tank unit, and is close enough to the Holley pumps spec's that I bought it. It ran me $39.99 plus tax and has a lifetime warranty. Since my car was already equipped with an in tank pump I just swapped this one in and rewired the power so that the Holley controller had control. I put the big kit supplied fuel filter on that fancy stainless splash shield I made, after I straightened it. If your car doesn't come with a in tank pump then I'd recommend you find an in line pump with similar spec's. Other than the installer (me) induced problems the only other thing's I ran into was stuff like where to put the ECU and such.
The non kit supplied pump is located in the tank, replacing a factory in tank pump. I don't know the pressures involved in this install, whatever was preset at Holley is what I am running. It appears the nipples on the TBI are of metric thread, so I am awaiting some fancy adapters to permanently install pressure gauges.
For MoPar applications most of the modifications previously mentioned will need to be done. The kit supplied fuel pump block off plate fits the smallblock MoPar. I removed the TCVS (thermally controlled vacuum switch) and mounted the kit supplied temperature switch there. I'd of preferred using another, available opening but the pipe plug refused to come out. I need to reinstall the TCVS in order to make the emissions system function properly. For a good source of +12 in run and switched mode the ballast resistor has it. Run a tap off the ballast resistor to power the power relay. As a +12v battery source for the power relay I wired the kit supplied fuse holder to an open terminal on the start relay. Holley shows the fuse being located between the relay and the controller, leaving the battery to relay wire unfused, I didn't like that so I fused the input to the relya. There are two ground wires as well as the pink wire that needs grounding in smallblock mode, I ganged these all together using a kit supplied big ring terminal, soldered and heatshrunk them together then mounted them on the intake manifold. In fact, any connection that had to be made was soldered and heat shrunk to ensure the best possible performance. The typical, MoPar dim lights at idle do not appear to affect the Holley system, but I did clean up all the charging system connections to alleviate this, which it did to a large extent.
Tuning the system isn't too hard and is a sight easier than tuning a carb. I find that the adjustment null positions are way too rich for my 318. It appears that the null adjustments Holley speaks of are nothing more than the midway point of adjustment. I flooded the engine on my first attempt to start it. I'd recommend opening them a quarter turn from fully CCW, with CCW being leaner and CW being richer. I tuned the IDLE adjustment with a vacuum gauge, I just set it for max vacuum. I did find out that the MAIN adjustment will affect idle tuning. So you might have to tune back and forth to get the best idle tuning. Once I had the idle speed and TPS voltage set correctly I went back to reset the idle mixture, using the vacuum gauge and the lean best vacuum setpoint. First, find the point where maximum vacuum is read, then turn the idle adjustment CCW til the vacuum just starts to drop, back off a hair and your there. Next is the MAIN adjustment, Holley says to run it up to 3k rpm, hold it there with your foot, then tune the knob for maximum rpm increase without moving your foot. I'd rather find a more reliable method of holding the throttle than my foot, like adjusting the fast idle solenoid to hold it at 3k rpm when energize, just for tuning purposes. You can use the max rpm increase method or max vacuum method or if your dumb enough to buy the Holley O2 sensor indicator kit use it. This is not the O2 sensor option for the Projection but rather the LED lights in a box doohickey that tells you what your O2 sensor is reading. For HIGH RPM I just drive it down the highway, set on the lean side, and tune out the lean surge as I drive. I know the Holley book says never adjust the kit while driving, a safety issue, but I have a friend that rides along and does the tweaking for me. CHOKE, I am still dialing it in. ACCEL, I just tuned it similar to the HIGH RPM tune. I set it lean and slowly tune out the flat spot as I accelerate on an empty road. I've only had it running for two days now so I am sure some of this will change as I get it fine tuned. I took it for it's first long, 22 miles, run today and other than a slight HIGH RPM lean surge I had no problems. I want to go back and verify all the mechanical settings and fine tune the electronic settings. I have a digital voltmeter that I can use to read my O2 sensor, which is why buying the Holley setup is dumb. Once I am confident I have it tuned as well as can be I will hook by O2 sensor up and see how that goes. So far I am happy but I bought it to increase my mileage and free up my 750 carb for my Dart. I called the Holley Tech line in regards to their O2 sensor option. It has been submitted for an CARB EO number. If it gets approved, the tech man wouldn't comment on the possibility of this happening but I know the certification process is expensive and only products with an almost 100% chance of getting the number get submitted, it will make the entire Projection smog legal in all states. We'll see, I hope!
© 1999 Steve M. Knickerbocker