I just recieved two water pumps back from a rebuilder, O&G Waterpumps in
Lubbock, TX. Total cost around $80.00 each. These were English Ford pumps-
about the same size as the TR/Morgan pumps- not real common pumps.


I gotta tell you, I am really impressed!!!  They seem to have been in business
"since dirt" and flat know pumps. At first I thought the price was a bit high
as NOS ENFO pumps can (at times) be had for 40-50 bucks. Of course they have
30-40 year-old seals, may have been rebuilt by ???....


Guy at O&G told me that Brits use junky seals- said that Jag pump seals are a
joke. I believe him. He uses heavy duty bearings too- big help- esp for TR
pumps that take a lot of side-load with that fat belt.
With no hassel- they replaced the shafts, put in heavy-duty bearings and
modern high-tech seals. (where in the he-- did they get the shafts for ENFO
pumps??) The pumps are now brand-new- they even sent gaskets- and a two-day
turn around.


I'm impressed. Don't think I'll ever buy another new /rebuilt pump. I'll have
mine rebuilt by this firm. Though I'd pass it on. I would recommend them
without reservation...


O&G Waterpump
4402 Avenue A
Lubbock, TX 79404
1-800-365-1981


Fred Sisson
---------------------------------------------
Fred, you were asking where the ENFO water pump shafts come
from. They are easily available from any bearing warehouse,
they are a standard 5/8 water pump shaft and bearing assembly
machined down on a lathe to the correct diameter and length, 
the seals are obtainable from any irrigation supply company.
Some machining of the housing and or impeller may be required
to fit the modern seals. I rebuild Enfo and TR/Morgan pumps
all the time, O & G's prices are right on the mark, I usually
charge out about $100 CDN for a pump. Sometimes it is necessary
to insert a ceramic disc into the impeller for the seal to seat
on, this has to be done if it is cast iron and badly corroded.
I have lots of various English rebuilt pumps on the shelf sold on 
exchange, Jag,TR, Austin, etc. Jim.
----------------------------------------------
Fred Kuzyk wrote:
> 
> Chip,
> As I mention in another post, I'm a "fan" of the fan! Mine has worked
> well for several years. When I hit the switch, temp drops from over 100
> deg C to the operating temp of 80 deg C in no time!
> 
> I too have an expansion tank. I believe this is a necessity, not to
> prevent overheat but to keep the level in the rad constant. My Mog tends
> to relieve pressure when it sits after a hot run. This would end up on
> the ground & the rad level would thus keep creeping down. Now it vents &
> vacuum returns it back to the rad when cool. Always full. The expansion
> bottle was a spare from a Mustang! It's true, Detroit iron runs cool,
> not suffering the problems of the LBCs (little British cars), which
> "mark their territory"!
> 
> Cheers,
> Fred Kuzyk
> President, Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada
> 
> 
> 
> ebrown@ms.com wrote:
> >
> >      Wow. It sounds like many of the respondents to the "Keeping Cool"
> >      question think that electric fans aren't necessarily a good answer.
> >      We've heard about blockage, ineffectiveness (see below), and using
> >      alternative measures, air dams, pressurized tanks and the like. To
> >      this interested observer, this is a real surprise. We only have one
> >      response that had a positive experience with fans. So many new cars
> >      have electric fans! Has anyone else out there become a real fan of
> >      fans? Can anyone recommend a particular pressurized reservoir to use
> >      with the older cars?
> >
> >      Chip Brown
> >
> > Subject: Re: keeping your cool
> > Author:  "David Wagstaff" <wagstaff@newnet.co.uk> at nylanr01
> > Date:    4/1/98 9:18 PM
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Until recently when the Morgan arrived I drove a Westfield with a Kent
> > engine in a fairly high state of tune.  It would always overheat when I got
> > stuck in traffic, even though it had an electric fan with a manual
> > override.  Whenever I stopped I flipped the switch, but the gauge would
> > gradually creep up and up.
> >
> > I solved the problem by going to a local radiator specialist.  It turned
> > out that the radiator on the car was a standard Serck radiator with only a
> > single row of tubes.  He made me a replacement with two rows of tubes, and
> > the car was ready by lunchtime.  Cost me about fifty pounds, fitted
> > perfectly and cured the problem just like that!
> >
> > Dave Wagstaff
> >
> 
> --
Chip,
I'm also a fan-fan and have found it to be very effective (btw when I
reversed the polarity on my '61 +4 to neg. ground, all I had to do was
reverse the connections for the fan to continue to rotate in the correct
direction).
The pressurized overflow reservoir is also a good idea. My homemade
variation (two hoses, a poly bottle and some silicone sealant) works
just fine. If you don't already have a copy of Fred Sisson's book, get
one. It has directions/suggestions for all of the above--and many more
ideas.
Good Luck, and Happy Morganing.
Michael


---------------------------------------------------------------
Your radiator will come out the bottom quite easily.
Remove the Grill and the box at the base of the grill.
Jack up the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right so the
drag link is hard against
    the frame front.
Drain the cooling system
Remove the hoses
Disconnect the temp sensor wire and the upper radiator support rods at the
radiator.
Remove the lower radiator mount bolts and rubber bushings.
You should now be able to remove the radiator bringing it down and forward.
It may be helpful to have two friends help by "spreading " the grill opening
slightly by simultaneously pulling up on the top outer edges of both front
fenders if the radiator seems to be to tight a fit to clear the valence
panels as they come forward to the base of the grill.
                                                                Regards,
Greg Solow
-----Original Message-----
From: HOOGLY@aol.com <HOOGLY@aol.com>
To: morgans@Autox.Team.Net <morgans@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 6:13 PM
Subject: TAKING OUT A RADIATOR




>I need to remove the radiator from my 1965 +4 (TR4A)  for repairs.  The
>conventional wisdom seems to be to take it out from the top which involves
>removal of bonnet & cowl.  There appears to be space to drop it out the
bottom
>with a lot less fuss and this would seem to be a simpler solution.  Maybe
I'm
>missing something.   If anyone has any experience with this, I would
>appreciate some advice.  Thanks.
>John Rogers
>65 +4
>
-------------------------------------------------------
"Ohhhh, FLAT RADS!"  My knowledge of
> this particular car is limited.  It is my understanding that the engine is
> rebuilt and ready to run, but that the car is almost completely
disassembled. 


Will;
I would strongly  suggest that you  insure the radiator is in good condition
. Unlike some  cars of the period the chrome outer shell of the Morgan Flat
Rad is the  top tank. Getting it repaired is very expensive to impossible as
few rad shops can solder the tank without screwing up the chrome  and few
chrome shops can  replate the tank without screwing up the radiator. 
I also know that the Master brake cylinder is rather  rare and parts can be
hard to find,
The 16 inch wheels are difficult  to find so insure they are in good shape.
The steering box was changed somewhere during that time and if  it has the
earlier type  parts are again hard to find.


Bob Nogueira
-----------------------------------------------------------


Fred,


Just got off the phone with my racing friend who refreshed my mind with
some points from our last year's conversation about using unpressurized,
neat propylene glycol as a coolant.  First was that if you plan to do
this you want to be sure that every drop of water is gone from the
cooling system, for if there is any water present it will still form
steam pockets in the hot spots and negate the effect desired by
switching coolants.


He is familiar with the Evans coolant and says it is propylene glycol
with additives.


He also claims that one of the big advantages of running high coolant
temperatures is that engine wear drops significantly and is one of the
reasons all modern cars run higher temperature thermostats.  However, as
coolant temperature goes up so does the propensity for detonation.  One
way to get around this is to use "reverse cooling " where the coolant is
pumped  from the radiator to the heads first rather than to the block
first.  He says Moroso did an experiment with a small block Chevy engine
where they used propylene glycol with reverse cooling and were able to
run a 17:1 compression ratio without detonation!  They attributed the
success to eliminating the steam pockets in the heads.


I think I'll go out to the garage tonight and switch the radiator hoses
around on my +4, take that lower rubber gasket off my radiator cap and
order some straight propylene glycol!  An unpressurized cooling system
in an early Morgan should add years to the life of that Smith's heater
core, not to mention more heat from it in the winter 'cause you can now
run a 190+  thermostat.


Art Hart
Chester, NJ
'64 +4
-----------------------------------------------