John T. Blair wrote:> > Hey gang!>
> Just was reading some email, a fellow has several heater cores for sale.
> This made me think, and boy that hurts. Does anyone know what heater the
> Morgan used(s). I have what I believe to be an old TR3 heater. It's a
> little taller than the one in my Morgan but I figure I could always press
> it into service if I had to.>
> My 65, uses a round heater box. The top and bottom are disks that are
> placed on the top and bottom of a round heater core. An electric fan is
> mounted to the top plate.>
> A friend has a 62 4/4. It looks like his heater was installed by some
> jackleg. It's a large square box. However, I thought the emergency
> brake mech. was pretty Rub-Goldburg, until I saw another 62 with the
> same bastard handle. But then, I guess that another story.> > John>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email:
> Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229>
> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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Regarding the heater, I also have a '67 4/4 Competition. It employs a
round heater. The plate says it is a SMITHS model R200. Code: FHR 2404.
I've heard such items are obsolete. They do tend to keep the passenger's
knees warm! Probably made by the fine people who made the equally
functional gauges! Seriously, I've read that a round heater from the
back of old Volvo wagons can fit & work better. Other than that, know
little about such heaters & liitle info is found in any of the books I
have. I may need a core in the future.
-Fred Kuzyk Morgan Sports car Club Canada
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Date: 03-Sep-1997 11:40:04
From:
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Heater]
My 1972 4/4 has this heater, and when it developed a leak a couple of
years back, I mentioned it a friend round the pub who said the
Morris Minor used the same heater, and he just happenned to have half
a dozen a them in a field! It cost me two pints, and it was a little
deeper than the one previously fitted, but is still doing a great job
to this day.
Ben
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Date: 03-Sep-1997 08:15:47
From:
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Heater]
I have a smallish 8" x 8" box heater from JC Whitney with a two speed fan.
Works
really well and can't even be seen. Cheap too.
CB
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Speaking of J. C. Whitney, I bought a pretty nice hot water heater from
them for my Morgan. Measures 7" x 7" x 7", two speed blower for about
119.00 less your preferred customer discount of course. Will bolt right
through the firewall or weld some bolts to the case (after taking the core
out) and run some hoses to coincide with the old Smith's holes. Actually
puts out some heat and doesn't leak. You can take the doors off the
Smith's, make some little brackets and attach it to the new heater, no one
will know the difference, but they'll wonder why it's so warm!
-------------------------------------------------
Excellent comments.I second them . Before adding an oil cooler, it is best
to know exactly what temp your oil is running. The best temps for
petroleum based oil are in the 180 to 210 degrees F. Cooler that that
causes excessive engine wear due to sudge and acid formation, hotter causes
the oil to break down and oxidize. Either one is very bad.
Regards,
Greg Solow
-----Original Message-----
From: William Zehring <zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU>
To: Art Hart <arthart@bell-labs.com>
Cc: morgans@autox.team.net <morgans@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:49 AM
Subject: hot/cold
>At 12:27 PM 2/3/99 -0500, Art wrote:
>
>>I can't see why an engine would run any hotter with straight propylene
>>glycol than it would with a "normal" coolant provided you use an
>>appropriate thermostat. The advantage you would have is that when it
>>did get a little hotter than normal it wouldn't boil over, it would keep
>>on going and do a better job of cooling than a boiling liquid with it's
>>vapor pockets at the hot spots which need the most cooling.
>
>Okay, I'm no chemist, but be a little careful here. Just because one
>coolant boils at a higher temp than another does doesn't mean (to me) that
>it'll cool an engine better. You have to take into account the specific
>heat of the agent (the 'ease' (for lack of a better word) with which the
>coolant will take up heat (in the engine) and give it off again (in the
>radiator)). If it returns to the engine from the radiator not much cooler
>than it was when it left the engine, this isn't good. Its my understanding
>that straight ethylene glycol is inferior to a 50:50 mix with water in this
>regard. The glycol/water mix is better at heat transfer than is straight
>glycol, if also able to boil at a lower temp. Of course, Art is correct to
>say that a vapor pocket also seriously hinders heat transfer (minimally by
>blocking the flow/contact area of liquid coolant). The whole thing is to
>strike a balance/compromise between a given coolant's boiling point, its
>specific heat, and its freezing point (given a specific thermostat/radiator
>combo).
>
>I'd echo the remarks made by another list member with regard to NASCAR
>coolant formulations, race vrs. street engines, oil changes and rebuilds...
> IMHO, the straight ahead approach is a 50:50 glycol/water mix, a 160-180F
>thermostat, correct timing/fuel mix, and a re-cored radiator for any street
>car that tends to run 'hot.' Maybe an oil cooler...
>
>In the final analysis, I'm reminded of the remarks a jag mechanic made to
>me when I asked him if my old E-type (please, I wish I NEVER sold that
>car... except that it financed me Mog) was running too hot
>
>Me: "Is this car running too hot? It cruises at an indicated 190-200F!"
>Him: "Has it boiled over?"
>Me: "Nope"
>Him: "Then its not running too hot."
>
>my two cents worth, anyway...
>cheers,
>WZ
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In a message dated 2/5/99 6:53:50 PM, RCooperman@aol.com writes:
>So - what is special about the Griffiths radiator?
>where does one acquire one?
Griffin has a website. Try:
Http://griffinrad.com/
Brad
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I've got an article from Nelson Warner in CT. to put up on SOL's Morgan
Web page. Anyway he got his from Griffin Radiator; 100 Hurricane Creek Road;
Piedmont, SC. 1-800-722-3723. He has a web page, http://griffinrad.com/
John
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