I have the gas tank out of my +4 since it was also leaking. What I discovered is there are stress points at the bottom where the sides of the tank are soldered on. There are two bolt holes on the flanges on each side and the side-to-side motion of the car plus vibrations puts tremendous stress on these solder joints. So any padding that would allow the stress to be transferred away from these joints should be beneficial. The leaking problem in my car is not due to corrosion, but due to breaking the solder joints at these stress points. So I do plan to have some sort of rubber or padding at the bolting points to help relieve the stress. I would also recommend sealing the inside of the tank with a compound such as the POR15 tank sealer. I would welcome any other suggestions. Regards, Phil Roettjer 1967 +4 > -----Original Message----- > From: Jane McDaid [SMTP:Murphys@ziplink.net] > Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 5:36 PM > To: hals@ix.netcom.com; jpavone@vanstar.com > Cc: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Morgan Gas Tank > > Or the silicone trapped moisture between the boards and the tank? Morgans > need plenty of ventilation! > > Jerry > > At 03:21 PM 2/16/99 -0600, hals@ix.netcom.com wrote: > >what a fancy way of mounting - with a bead of silicone - my old tank is > just > >bolted squarely and firmly down to the wooden planks that form my back > >platform. > >mayhaps the tank needs that firmer support??, or the seal that was used > >would have let go regardless.. > > > > > >On 02/16/99 08:51:17 you wrote: > >> > >> > >>I've just sent my 4/4 gas tank to the folks at Gas Tank Renu as it has > >>started to leak just one driving season into it's Lifetime warranty. I > >>assume this was due to a screw up during the "renuing" process, but I > can't > >>help wondering if vibration may have caused this. The tank was mounted > on > >>the boards with a bead of black silicone in between. Anyone know of a > >>better way to mount the tank to help reduce vibration? > >> > >>Regards, > >> > >>John ----------------------------------------------- Phil: I know of what you speak. The Duchess tank leaked at the same joint. It took me forever to discover the leak as it was so small that fuel never dripped to the ground but collected between the tank and wood boards. After repairing the tank, to keep from stressing the seams again I used two metal straps with rubber under them. they start and end at the rear cross member, going over the tank down to the boards and under the boards back to the rear cross member. On top of the tank I have two adjustment screws to tighten up the straps, With this arrangement I don't have to use side flange. I also feel much more secure knowing my gas tank is not being held in place by two soldered flanges Bob Nogueira ----------------------------------------------- > Glenn, > > Thanks for your comments. I have had quite a bit of experience with sheet > metal and soldering also; including over ten years of restoring brass lamps for > pre-1916 cars, building copper fuel and water tanks for Stanley steamers and > several brass radiators for early cars. However, I wimped out when it came to > the Morgan fuel tank and am having it TIG welded by a local firm that has made > lots of fuel tanks. I don't like soldering long seams, especially in > stainless. I do find the higher tensile strength solders such as > 95%tin/5%silver resist stress and stain better and that's what I used for the > radiators and tanks I built. A shop in the UK advertises in "Miscellany" that > they make stainless steel Morgan tanks, but they quoted me a price of 800 > pounds sterling plus shipping, etc. Another reason I let this local shop make > the tank is the fact that I only have a 24" brake anymore - too short for the > Morgan gas tank. > > Art > '64 +4 #5727 > Chester, NJ > > wms wrote: > > > > > Art, > > I can't sit here and not reply on this one , hope you don't > > mind . > > First I will state that sheet metal has been my livelyhood for > > 40 years .I also try to do all the work on my own cars myself . I built a > > stainless steel tank for my 62 + 4 using the same constuction as Morgan .I > > eventually scrapped it because I did not have confidence in the soldered > > joints .Welding to me would be the only way to go with stainless . I wanted > > an original looking tank and was also concerned with my own ability to weld > > light gauge stainless steel . What I did , was ordered in a sheet of brass > > and now have made a duplicate tank in brass which can be painted black and > > will look original ( If you ' re up to polishing ,you could have a lifetime > > job and the looks would be nice ! Perhaps there is a down side to this , > > however I can see none , the cost is not that much different than > > stainless and brass is much nicer to work with .I also had enough brass to > > make another grille. I used only soft solder but was able to " sweat" the > > solder into the seams , joints and corners very well .I used the Morgan > > style tank supports with four bolts ( which my car had ) and mounted to the > > boards to the frame solid ,( as my car was when I got it ).I too was > > concerned with frame flex and did set my tank mounts on rubber pads using > > nylock nuts to position the nuts on the bolts so they where snug but would > > flex .The tank bottom cross-break sits on the wood floor but the outside > > edges sit on rubberpads as well.---------It's in there now and I will keep > > an eye on it to watch for any harmful effects. It's great what you can > > learn from the " Pros " here on the net . We thank them ! > > Glenn Nigh # 5112 # B2117 > > > From: Art Hart <arthart@bell-labs.com> > > > To: morgan forum <morgans@autox.team.net> > > > Subject: Re:Morgan Gas Tank > > > Date: February 17, 1999 9:17 AM > > > > > > Greg, > > > > > > I am in the process of remaking my gas tank from stainless steel as it > > > had rusted inside so badly that one baffle was completely rusted off and > > > rattling around and the huge Fram fuel filter I have on the line plugs > > > with rust after only a few hundred miles. My rear fuel tank board is > > > secured to the rear crossmember by the three screws that you mention and > > > there are the two steel straps holding the two boards together, but the > > > front board has a 5/16 bolt on either end anchoring it to the side > > > rails. I gather that these are incorrect and have been added by the > > > previous restorer and that I should leave these out when I replace the > > > tank?? > > > > > > Art Hart > > > '64 +4 > > > Chester, NJ ---------------------------------------