I agree with Tom's recommendation (below) about the damper blades,
and his method of adjustment.
You should also check the 1/2' diameter rod next to the blade.
If the bolt that anchors the rod to the frame wiggles loose (mine did after tens years
of regular driving for some reason) you will get the standard 50mph shimmy.
Good luck, Joe DeLuca Sparta, NJ '62 yellow 4/4 ------------------------------------------ >> It is actually the damper blade shims that may need attention. The first >> thing to do is grab hold of the damper blade and give it a good shake. >> If there is any play the shims need to be adjusted. The shims are >> located on either side of the blade where it mounts to the chassis. >> Simply loosen the mounting bolts and push the shim in toward the blade >> then retighten. Do one bolt at a time so you don't push the blade and >> other shim in the other direction. >> >> Good luck -- There has been volumes written about correcting wheel >> shimmy. I hope this simple suggestion may help. >> >> Tom Warden >> 1965 4/4 ------------------------------------------ I'm sorry to see that your shimmy is back. I append my original post below as I think it gives a suitable order and I notice that various people give similar advice. As adjusting the damper blades can be a bit of a fiddle, it often gets ignored and as Dave Vodden points out some people don't think it to be much of a factor, however it the easy things are sorted, it's probably the next cheapest to do. To adjust the blades, back off the clamping bolts to the shims and look at the edge of the shims to make sure they haven't worn to a blade edge. If they have, replace them and the blade itself. Push the shims against the blades and tighten then to a sliding fit, so the blade can be bent in and out from between the shims. At the end of the process, you should not be able to pull the damper blade for and aft along the car, although you should be able to bend the shimmed end out and back. (Daft description, but I cannot think of a better one). Chassis ________________________________ SSSBBBBBBSSSSS (a parallel sliding fit) SSSBBBBBBSSSSS BBBBBB BBBBBB BBBBBB Stub Axle assembly I apologise for the world's worst ASCII diagram! With everything set up properly, there won't be any, but tracking down the one thing that is doing it on any particular car can be a pain. With mine it was tyres out of round, (flats on the tyres from lack of use), and worn damper blade shims. Colin Musgrove in his book "Moggy" makes a few helpful suggestions, but to condense half a chapter it came to:- (i) Adjust the damper blade shims to stop the damper moving fore and aft along the car, but not so tight as the damper can't move in and out. (ii) If you have any difficulty with this, replace the damper blades and shims with new- they can wear quite badly. (iii) Have the front wheels balanced properly- splined wire wheels require the correct hub adapter or else! (iv) Check the tracking. (v) Make sure the cross frame bolts are tight, the king pins greased and the brakes not dragging. After that little lot, make sure the wheels and tyres are round- not as daft as it sounds- buckled wheels after being kerbed, tyres out of round after standing too long, cord failure in the tyre all can happen. Then check the steering gear- duff track rod end perhaps, freeplay in the drop link? After that little lot, black magic and prayer! Personally, IMO most bad shimmy is the product of a number of the above factors. Happy Hunting- It took me a month. -- Jeremy Edwards 1972 Morgan 4/4 2 str 1970 Opel GT Melton Mowbray, England ----------------------------------------- Test the damper blade adjustment first-there should be no fore-and aft motion possible where they go through the clanmp on the chassis. If they are loose, adjust the litle weges by loosening the two bolts on the clamp, move the wedges toward each other and tighten. If the damper blades are worn (concavities where they rub on the wedges) replace the blades and wedges. If this is not it, test the king pins& bushings by grasping the wheel (while jacked up) by seizing it at 12 and 6 o'clock and trying to wiggle it--any motion there means new pins& bushings. I have heard of worn tires doing it, and being cured by remounting the tires inside out. -"Dave"