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Turkish Delights by
Jenny Spiers
©1999
Jenny Spiers and her husband risked going where
'no wheelchair has gone before.' Reprinted
Courtesy of "Disability Now." I wanted to go back to Dalyan, the little town on
Turkey's south Aegean coast, quiet and breathtakingly beautiful, where your
sightseeing is done by boat. We had booked a ground floor apartment bedroom, bathroom, living room with balcony - which looked out over the pool and gardens, with the mountains in the distance. No other building was in sight. There was an odd step here and there, but nothing insurmountable for a lightweight person in a manual chair. The guests and staff were helpful and very friendly. Help and humour also made the hotel minibus and ferry accessible. My chair was perched in the bow of the boat. We spent an idyllic week visiting local historic sites, mud baths, thermal springs and the famous turtle beach. To reach the ruins was a serious endeavour; my husband seems to enjoy the
challenge of getting me to places "no wheelchair has gone before".
Then it was on to the bustle of Istanbul, an amazing
city, almost completely unfriendly to wheelchairs. The Arcadia was a modern hotel in the old town, accessible except for the rooftop restaurant. Not wanting to miss out on the magnificent views, my husband piggy-backed me up there one night. It was worth it. Our room was on the first floor accessed by a lift. Sightseeing was done on foot over roughly cobbled streets, up and down huge pavement drops to cross dangerous roads all vehicles drive at a furious pace. In several places the pavement petered out completely or changed into a tram track. I think I was the only independent wheelchair user in the whole city. I was looked on as a curiosity. People came up to me in a friendly way if I was alone. Many wanted to know about my chair. I hope I created some business for the manufacturer, though it did let us down on several occasions: the wheel kept falling off or scraping on the body. My husband had a penknife with him and, sitting me on a handy wall, he effected immediate repairs. In the ancient market, I bought strings of dried red chili peppers, herbs and spices and Turkish delight, and looked at all the wonderful leather goods, especially clothing, which were much cheaper than in the UK. We found one disabled loo in the whole of Istanbul and that was in the station gents, not very savoury to say the least. In one beautiful old mosque I was accosted by a well dressed man who asked if he could take my photo. He hastened to say that he was a doctor specialising in spinal injuries and had come to Istanbul from Birmingham to give a lecture to Turkish doctors on rehabilitation. He told me that Turkey is way behind in this field. Many soldiers, disabled on national service, have a poor prognosis. They are sent home to their families where they more or less vegetate, with no treatment, physiotherapy or aids to help them become independent. Or they end up begging on the streets. The doctor needed a photo of me to show that disabled people can live free and normal lives. For me, Istanbul remains one of the wonders of the
world. I recommend a visit providing you have a strong companion and are
not afraid of adventure. The holiday for two cost £1,178, including flights, transfers, half board at the Sultan Palace and bed and breakfast at the Arcadia.
Treasures
Travel is in London, tel: 0171-494 2252.
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