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Siamese Cats Facts

History And Standard

HISTORY

It is fairly well established that the history of Siamese cats is vague at best. Records in Siam (now Thailand) are all but nonexistent. It is fairly well established that Siamese cats were originally owned only by the king and the royal family in Siam. Possibly the fable that they were sacred stems from the fact that they are born white--anything white was sacred in Siam.   One ancient book now on display in the Thai National Library in Bangkok is Cat Book Poems in which the "palecoated" Siamese is described as having black feet, tail, and ears (a fairly accurate description of a Seal Point). Further, this cat is said to have red eyes. The blue eyes of the Siamese reflect a reddish glow--blood color--when the wide-open pupil is met with a flash bulb or a light in the dark. This book is believed to have been written between the years 1350 and 1750, and it is thought to possibly be the oldest book entirely about cats. Several cats are believed to be native to Thailand, one of the shows today. This is a totally silver-blue cat with green eyes, and many believe our present-day Blue Point is descended from the Korat.

STANDARD

The following is excerpted from the Cat Fanciers' Association (CFA) Standard. Standards may vary from one cat association to another.

GENERAL:The siamese cat is, in general, an elegant, svelte, dainty cat with long, tapering lines, giving an overall appearance of glowing, muscular vitality.Theexotic contrast in the color between points and body adds to the striking appeal of this very loving animal.

BODY:The body should be medium in size, and is a distinctive combination of fine bones and firm muscles. The body appears to be long. The shoulders and hips should continue the same sleek lines of the body. The hips should never be wider than the shoulders and viceversa. This description is referred to as a "tubular" body. The abdomen should be tight.

EARS:The ears should be strikingly large, pointed at the top and wide at the base, and should continue the lines of the wedge-shaped head when viewed from the front.

HEAD:The head should be medium in size and in good proportion to the body. Viewed from the front, the head shape should be long, tapering wedge. The wedge starts at the nose and flares out in straight lines to the tip of the ears, forming a triangle. There is no break at the whiskers. When the whiskers are smoothed back, the underlying bone structure is apparent. Allowance should be made for stud jowls in the male (stud) cat.

EYES: The eyes should be almond shaped, medium in size, neither protruding nor recessive. They are to be slanted towards the nose in harmony with the lines of the wedge and ears. They must not be crossed. There is to be no less than the width of an eye between the eyes. A siamese cat's eye color must always be a deep, vivid blue.

COAT: The coat should be short, fine texture and glossy, lying close to the body.

PAWS:The paws should be dainty, small and oval, and should have five toes in the front and four toes on the back feet.

LEGS:The legs should be slim and long; the hind legs should be higher than the front legs. Legs must be in good proportion to the body.

BODY COLOR: The body color of a siamese should be even with subtle shading. Allowance is to be made for darker color in older cats as siamese generally darken with age. There must be definate contrast between body color and point color.

POINT COLOR:The point color must be dense, clearly defined, and all of the same shade of color. The points are the ears, legs, feet, tail, and mask. The mask should cover the entire face, including the whisker pads, and should be connected to the ears by tracings. The mask should not extend over the top of the head. No ticking or white hairs should be in the points.

PROFILE: The skull is to be flat. In profile, the appearance of a long, straight line is to be seen from the top of the head to the tip of the nose with no bulge over the eyes and no dip in the nose.

CHIN:The chin and jaw should be medium in size. The tip of the chin lines up with the tip of the nose in the same vertical plane and is neither receding nor excessively massive.

TAIL:The tail should be long, thin, and tapering to a fine point. It must not have a visible kink. This requirement is often referred to as a "whip" or "pencil" tail.

Some Kittie Tips

The little kitties thought I should add some tips on how to take care of them.
1.Please feed us.(and not some junkie food either.)
2.Make sure we have a clean litter box.
3.Keep us safe and warm.

4.Buy us lots of TOYS.   
Ok. now little kittie thats enough,now it's my turn.
(The cat with the yarn is from
Cat Gif Animations!)

Litter Box Training

Kittens are not born knowing how to use a litter box, and will need your help to train them, if they haven't already learned from their litter mates. Watch your kitten closely. When you see it beginning to nose around in the corners or squatting, take him/her to the litter box. Gently scratch the kitten's front paws in the cat box filler, so it knows this is the place to deposit and cover waste.
Most kittens catch on very quickly, but should your kitten have an accident, wipe it up with a paper towel, and place the towel in the litter box. Then place the kitten in the litter box and once again scratch its front paws in the cat box filler to reinforce the idea that this is where he/she should go.
Do not punish your kitten for having an accident. This will not help it to learn to use the litter box, It will only teach it not to go in front of you.
When your kitten begins to get the idea, don't take its good behavior for granted. Praise your kitten for using the litter box.
Always change your litter box about 2 or 3 times per week, and scoop it out everyday to keep oders away. I alway use a desposable litter box,its cleaner and it doesn't cost much.

Brushing and Combing

Most cats do a good job of keeping themselves clean, but they will need your help when it comes to preventing fur balls and matted hair, and in detecting problems with their ears and eyes. For shorthair cats, groom at least once a week. Longhair cats require more grooming usually 2-3 times a week.

Bathing (Have Fun)

Should bathing be necessary, use only warm water and a mild soap, preferably a cat shampoo.
Make sure you rinse your cat thoroughly, dry it well with towels and keep away from drafts until fully dried and fluffy. As they tend to catch colds easily.

FEEDING

Premium-quality dry or canned cat food provides a healthy diet for your cat. Fresh, clean water must be available at all times. All water and feed bowels should be washed and refilled daily.
An adult cat should be fed one large meal or two smaller meals each day. Kittens 6-12 weeks old need to be fed four times a day, and kittens 12-24 weeks old need to be fed three times a day. (They say you should not keep food down at all times but, I always have and the vets said that they are all healthy.They nik pik. they are not overweight or anything.)

Neutering and Spaying

Cats may be neutered or spayed anytime after 4-6 months of age. It is best to spay females before they have their first heat; although they may be spayed while in heat or even while pregnant (but perfer not too be). Males should be neutered before they start any spraying behavior.

Vaccinations For Your Pets

Your Cats natural roaming habits may bring them into contact with other animals - increasing their exposure to disease.
Fortunately for your pet, vaccinations are available to prevent many cat diseases. Vaccines protect pets against common viruses and bacteria that cause disease.
Several diseases that cats get are almost always fatal - feline leukemia, feline infectious peritonitis, and rabies, for instance. Other diseases can kill kittens or destroy the good health of adult cats.
Prevention assures the best quality of life for your pet, and it costs less than treatment. Vaccinating your cat is the best and least costly way to prevent disease. Without a vaccination program, many cats will come down with a serious or even fatal disease.
FVRCPC (Rhinotracheitis, Calici virus, Panleukopenia, and Chlamydia) (Commonly called Distemper) Boosters are started at 6-8 weeks of age and are given at 3-4 week intervals until the kitten is 14-20 weeks of age. This vaccination is updated yearly.
Rabies Given at 14-16 weeks of age and updated yearly. FeLV (Feline Leukemia) Not given routinely; recommended for cats that have exposure to other cats and required by some kennels and groomers. Given at 9 weeks of age or older. A single booster is required 3-4 weeks after the initial vaccination and updated yearly. FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis) Not given routinely; recommended for cats that have exposure to other cats. Given at 16 weeks of age or older. A single booster is required 3-4 weeks after initial vaccination and updated yearly.

Playing

Most cats will love playing with you. There is the usual string or ball chasing; a few will even retrieve thrown items. "Hide and seek" and "Peekaboo" are also popular. Cats commonly display interest by dilating their pupils; look for this to see what catches its attention. Try a small pencil flashlight or a small laser light for a game of "flashlight tag". Cats love to chase the light across the floor, over furniture and up walls. The lower-wattage laser pointers (0.1mW or less) are quite safe for something like this. It would take many days of non-stop direct exposure to the beam to even *start* to do any damage to eyes. Cats will often display behavior commonly called "elevenses," since it seems to occur most often around 11PM. This consists of the cat's eyes dilating, its tail poofing out, and alternating between hopping sideways and racing all over the house. Your cat wants to play. Take it up on the challenge. Chase after it, play hide and seek. This can also be useful; playing with a cat just before bedtime reduces the chances of your cat wanting to play with you at 3AM.

These are the kittens about 3 weeks old just starting to get their points.

This is Samson. He is a Sealpoint.

This is Samson with Sheba. Sheba is a Bluepoint.

 

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