Change in bloom on Doi Angkhang

Visitors to Chiang Mai can enjoy a bounty of cool-weather flowers and fruit from the Royal Project, and enjoy luxurious accommodation as well

JARUNEE TAEMSAMRAN

Not long ago, most of the hilltribe residents of Doi Angkhang earned their living cultivating opium poppies in this vast, mountainous area of Fang district in Chiang Mai.

But since the establishment of the Royal Agricultural Project Foundation in the area 28 years ago by His Majesty the King, things have gradually but definitely changed. Today the beautiful opium poppy fields on Doi Angkhang no longer exist and have become just another travellers' tale.

Virtually the whole area now features arrays of brightly coloured blooms because of the cultivation of marketable flowers, fruits and vegetables such as plum, kiwi, avocado, strawberry and raspberry which once had to be imported.

The hilltribes people have shifted to cultivating cold-climate plantations introduced by the Royal Agricultural Project Foundation. Hmong and Karen members in particular grow chrysanthemums, carnations, roses, asters, gladioli, lilies, orchids and several other varieties of flowers. From this produce they are able to generate a substantial income to themselves and for the country.

An officer at the station said that some hilltribe families can earn as much as 50,000 baht for a crop season by selling their products to the project. The flowers and fruit are supplied to both the domestic and export markets.

In addition to helping hilltribes to earn direct income from growing plants, the Royal Project at Doi Angkhang station has recognised the good potential to further promote the area for tourism.

Located on Tanaosri mountain, Doi Angkhang is just five kilometres from the Thai-Burmese border. The climate is amazingly exotic by local standards. Situated 160 kilometres north of Chiang Mai (40 km from Fang district) and 1,400 metres above sea level, Doi Angkhang is cool all year round; temperatures can reach zero Celsius in winter.

The weather not only allows cold-climate plants to grow, but it also attracts thousands of visitors to taste the winter chill each year.

His Serene Highness Prince Phisadej Rajani, chairman of the Royal Project Foundation, has taken to calling the area Amazing Doi Angkhang. He has spearheaded the research and development of the Royal Project from the beginning.

He recalled that in the old days Doi Angkhang was covered with illegal opium poppy fields which were heavily guarded by ethnic hilltribes. But once the project came into existence, the residents finally agreed to shift their cultivation to more beneficial produce.

Doi Angkhang is now one of Chiang Mai's most famous natural tourist attractions. Dubbed Thailand's Little Switzerland, Doi Angkhang is second to none among destinations in the province.

The public is able to visit the Doi Angkhang Royal Project. Until recently, accommodation was fairly Spartan. Visitors could camp, rent a bungalow provided by the Foundation, or stay in a guesthouse in a hilltribe village.

But today, visitors to Doi Angkhang can find more comfortable accommodations.

The first luxury resort to be built near a Royal Agricultural project (there are about 30 stations in all), Angkhang Nature Resort held its soft opening in early November.

The resort can help to generate extra income for the station, which will allow it to develop and experiment with other types of plants.

"We would like people to come and see for themselves that we have one of the most amazingly beautiful places in the Kingdom," Prince Phisadej said. "And they'll be inspired by love of the country that we as Thai people can do such extraordinary things."

The promotion of Doi Angkhang for tourism has received support from the government and the Tourism Authority of Thailand.

Managed by Amari Hotels and Resorts, Angkhang Nature Resort will contribute part of its income to the Royal Project.

The complex contains 19 buildings with four rooms each. All the buildings are surrounded by beautiful landscaping featuring the area's many flowers, which change with the seasons.

The resort has 72 wooden Thai-style rooms and two suites furnished with wall-to-wall carpeting, teak furniture, Thai fabrics and local crafts. All have their own private facilities and roomy balconies overlooking the lush green landscape.

The resort's restaurant also serves delicious and nutritious cuisine using fresh produce from the Royal Project.

Approximately two kilometres from the resort is a modern conference room for up to 115 participants. It can be used for seminars and conferences, but the priority is on functions of government agencies.

With the opening of the resort, the accommodations once provided by the Foundation will be closed to encourage people to stay at the resort instead.

Prince Phisadej said the Royal Project also planned to educate visitors by producing a video that resort guests can view.

More education is needed since some visitors who arrive at Doi Angkhang are still not aware of the area's status as a Royal Project.

In addition, there are plans for a guidebook as well as guided tours so that visitors can see what is being planted and harvested in the area.

"We will have manuals and guidebooks for sales so that visitors can go to the right place and get to know more about the flowers being planted here," Prince Phisadej said.

Within the area of the agricultural projects, visitors can take a leisurely walk around the experimental plantations of colourful flowers, as well as taste fresh strawberries right from the farms. However, for some experimental plantations, you need to ask permission from project officers before entering.

A Bonsai tree garden inside Doi Angkhang, within walking distance of the resort, is worth a look. For a 20-baht entry fee, you can spend at least half a day enjoying the garden.

In addition, visitors can also shop for fresh fruit grown in the Royal Project.

Although the climate at Doi Angkhang is cool all year round, the best time to visit is winter because the area's beautiful flowers and fresh fruit can be seen in abundance, making a delightful scene even more impressive.

TRAVEL TIPS

Getting there: From Bangkok, Thai Airways International has flights to Chiang Mai every day (280-0070, 220-0080). It takes about 50 minutes. From the airport, you can rent a limousine with a chauffeur at the airport (1,800 baht one-way). It takes about three hours to reach Doi Angkhang. About 20 km before Fang is the turnoff for route 1249 to Doi Angkhang.

A few hilltribe villages (Lahu, Lisu and Hmong) can be visited on the slopes. The Yunnanese village of Ban Khum on Doi Angkhang also has some bungalows for rent.

Accommodation at Angkhang Nature Resort is 1,500 baht per night plus service charge and 10% VAT. For bookings, call Bangkok, 267-9711, or e-mail: <amari@mozart.inet.co.th>