In the old days, before the island became as liberal as it is today, the forested interior of Taiwan used to be off limits to most people. Little by little, the government is opening up areas to public access, which has both good and bad sides. Today, not only are there three cross-island highways and dozens of forest recreational areas, but also fruit and vegetable farms, and real estate developers. With the development of the interior, birders find it easier to access birding locations in the mountains, yet are finding them developed almost as quickly as they are opened up. Therefore many of the best birding places in Taiwan still require some sort of mountain permit.

    Basically, there are two types of mountain permits in Taiwan. Here, I will refer to them as type A and type B. Type A is difficult to obtain. Unless you have some friendly relationship with the forestry officials or if you are a member of a hiking organization, it is not worth trying to apply for these permits. The Pi-Li Birdwatchers group is led by a former hiker, so we were able to access some of these places. Type B is much easier. Just carry along your passport or R.O.C. ID card, and write down your identification at the police station that stops you on the way into the mountains. If you don't see any, good for you! You probably got by without them even noticing, something which is disturbingly easy to do.

    Some of the places that require mountain permits have multiple entrances, or are located right next to a major highway. Although I am not encouraging you to break the law, the truth is that birders often arrive at such an inconvenient time that the efforts taken to apply for a permit is often unnecessary. Why? Because the police officers are human beings. Who in their right mind would be awake, guarding an empty forest trail at five o'clock in the morning!!! Therefore, being a birder, I often get by without mountain permits. The two trails at Anmashan that are the best places on the island to see the two endemic pheasants require type A permits. However, of the near-dozen times I've been to Anmashan, I have never applied for a permit. Nor have I been threatened with fines or imprisonment. If discovered by police, show them your bird book and binoculars, act like you don't understand Chinese, and start heading back. The trick is not to let them catch you in the same trail the next morning!