Dear Ataboy,
        We signed up with the Federation of Philippine Photographers on a
trip to the "Taong Putik" Ritual in Aliaga, Nueva Ecija. P1,000 per person
ang cost.

        Basta ang alam ko lang ay aalis nang 6:00 pm on June 23, Friday, at
babalik nang June 25, Sunday.

        So I went to NFA last Friday with my bags and left for Makati early
at 3:30 pm, in order to be there at 5 pm to get good seats at  the bus.

        Sure enough, nandoon ako at 5 pm! There, I found out that the tour
also includes Pantabangan, my grandfather's hometown, as well as the Central
Luzon State University campus, and other points of interest pa in Nueva
Ecija. I will tour my home province! Great!

        So I did not mind the delay of our departure to 7:30 pm to wait for
other photographers who still had "shoots". We rode on two airconditioned
Baliwag Transit buses.

        Ang traffic! We got to Philrice in Munoz, Nueva Ecija at past
midnight. Tulog na agad sa Philrice dormitory. There were four of us in the
room, Ojie and I, a girl photographer, and a gay photographer with long
hair. Philrice had good facilities. It  was set up with a Japanese grant.

        Kinatok kami nang gising at 3:45 am Saturday, kasi 4:30 am sharp ang
departure for Bibiclat, Aliaga, Nueva Ecija for the "Taong Putik" Ritual on
the feast day of St John the Baptist.

        Sinundo kami ng dalawang "Pag-aari ng Lalawigan ng Nueva Ecija"
buses (hindi airconditioned) provided by the office of Governor Tommy Joson.
May kasama pang tour coordinator from the Tourism office, who gave us
background about the "Taong Putik" Ritual while we were on our way to Aliaga.
 
        Ang ganda ng colors of daybreak! I have forgotten when I watched it
last.

        May nadaanan na kaming mga taong putik na barefooted na naglalakad
patungong simbahan. Nakasuklob sa kanila ang canopy mostly made up of wilted
banana leaves. Lumulublob sila sa putikan in that canopy. Hindi halos makita
ang mga mukha nila.
 
        Nasa Church ng Bibiclat na kami at 5:15 am. May mga ilan nang taong
putik na nagdarasal dun sa may tulusan ng kandila. Pumunta muna ako sa loob
ng simbahan.

        Sa gilid na ako lumabas. Nag-magandang umaga ako dun sa taong mataba
na lumabas from the church office, at tinanong ko siya kung marami talaga
yung mga taong putik. Oo raw, marami. Inakbayan pa ako at sinabayan paglabas
sa church grounds. Itinuro yung mga maagang dumating na mga taong putik, at
ang nagtatawang sabi pa e gusto lang daw magpa-picture yung mga iyon!

        Pumuesto ako sa church gate para makita ang arrival ng mga taong putik.
        Tinanong ko yung nagtitinda ng kandila kung bakit may mga taong
putik na lumalampas sa simbahan. Mamamalimos pa raw bahay-bahay.

        Akala ko mga lalaki lang ang taong putik. May mga babae rin pala. At
may mga bata pa nga.

        Sabi nung nagtitinda ng kandila, pag pinagtawanan mo raw ang taong
putik, sasakit ang tiyan mo!

        Dalawang taong putik ang lumapit at namalimos mismo sa akin habang
nakatayo ako dun sa may gate ng simbahan. Nagbigay ako ng pera. Meron ding
mga naglilimos sa kanila ng mga kandila.

        Naririnig ko na ang tunog ng marching music. At eto na ang banda ng
musiko ng Bibiclat! Mga taong putik din sila, pati ang mga majorettes!

        Nakita ko uli yung matabang tao na binati ko. He, he, he!  Siya pala
ang parish priest sa Bibiclat.

        Magsisimula na ang misa at 6 am. Siguro mga 200 taong putiks na ang
nasa church grounds.

        The number of taong putiks easily swelled to 300 while the mass was
ongoing. It is an awesome display of faith.

        At one point, the priest reminded the photographers that a religious
ceremony is ongoing.

        Acceptable ang maglagay ng kandila sa collection pouch. Pera ang
inilagay ko.Nagtulos ako ng kandila for some intentions.

        A co-photographer commented that I am not taking pictures. I told
him that I am taking pictures with my eyes. I really felt that to take
pictures was an intrusion, and disrespectful.

        After the mass, we realized na naputikan din kami by mingling with
the taong putik crowd.

        The band played. There was a program with brief speeches from the
mayor and the governor.

        Then, recessional na. The taong putiks, most of whom have now
exposed their faces, paraded out of the church grounds followed by the banda
ng musiko.

        Kami ay pinatuloy  sa school opposite the church. Nakaka-homesick
ang inihandang  breakfast of sinangag, tinapa, longganisa, itlog na maalat,
piniritong talong, kamatis, sibuyas at bagoong, saka piniritong saging na
saba and kesong puti pa. Coffee ang drinks.

        Gov Tommy Joson came to welcome the group, and a lot of us posed for
pictures with him.

        We proceeded to Pantabangan after breakfast. Along the way, dahil
San Juan, may mga nagbubuhos ng tubig sa mga dumadaang sasakyan. We watched
out for signs na may nambubuhos and closed our  windows accordingly, but
some photographers had their windows open at the wrong time, kaya nabasa
sila! We laughed merrily along the way, as we kept opening and closing our
windows. One truck on the road had the right idea. May drum of water din
sila, at gumaganti ng buhos with those on the ground.

        Pantabangan  -- birthplace ng Ingkong at ng Tatay ko. Ang daming memories na
na-replay.

        We were welcomed by the Pantabangan mayor at the resthouse of Boyet Joson
who is mayor of Quezon town.

        Naghihintay na sa resthouse yung mga local schoolgirls na magiging
models sa "shoots". Pinagmano ko sila sa akin, at siguradong mga kamag-anak
namin sila.

        Oops! Lalakad to the edge of the dam water where the jetskis are.
Ang tarik ng bababaan! Hindi ako tumuloy. Ang dami pang amorseko ang kumapit
sa pantalon ko!
        I approached the mayor and asked if there is another path with a
gentler grade. Aba, pinasakay ako sa kanyang vehicle at isinabay na ako sa pagsundo sa
kanyang pamilya na nasa ibaba na pala. Naunahan ko pa yung mga naglakad.

        Nagtanggal ako ng mga amorseko sa pantalon at nag-wade sa tubig.
Nanood ng mga nag-jetski.

        Then we inched our way back to the resthouse for lunch.  Aba, yung
ibang photographers, pina-pose ang mga local models almost sa edge ng hills.
Okay lang naman sa mga local beauties.

        Nakarating din, medyo hiningal at pinawisan lang.

        Nakipag-kuwentuhan kami sa mayor while eating our lunch. They plan
to put up a training center and a hotel doon.

        After lunch, andg nakausap ko naman ay yung announcer sa DWNE.
Supported daw ni Tommy Joson ang culture preservation and development, kaya
sa DWNE ay may balagtasan at saka harana sila.

        Busog na busog kami sa sariwang simoy ng hangin. Nakakaantok na nga,
lalo pa't puyat kami.

        Tinapos ko na ang pagtanggal ng amorseko sa pantalon ko.

        We had a group picture, then proceeded to the spillway. We stopped
at the viewpoint of the dam, took in more fresh air (sinubukan kong
magpatangay sa hangin with my umbrella)

        The expanse of greenery broken by caballero trees ablaze with blooms
is breathtaking, but there  is no way a camera can capture the full
panoramic view.

        Kasama pa rin ang mga local beauties as models dun sa spillway.

        Yung mamang nagbabangka, naging model din. Saka yung nagpi-picnic na
mga bata doon. Pati yung nagpapa-andar ng motorized boat.

        Nag-wade uli ako sa tubig while waiting for our turn sa boating. It
took a while before the first group returned. But we had a nice ride, too.
Of course, umitim lalo kami, but what the heck!

        Pagod na talaga ang mga tao. Nakatulog na on the way back. Pagdating
sa Philrice, pahinga muna. I did not dare take a cold shower. Si Ojie,
sumimple na umuwi sa amin sa Cabanatuan. Di ko na kaya ang sumama sa kanya.
He was back by dinnertime.

         Mabuti na lang at walang seremonyas over dinner. Kain at tulog na. Ang
sarap ng full night's sleep!

        Ang aga naming nagising on Sunday. Walang kumpetensiya sa shower room! Ang
sarap magpakalunod sa ligo! Nag-pack up na kami ng mga gamit while waiting for breakfast.

        We were to shoot at Philrice till 9 am. The photographers walked about a
kilometer to get to some planting rice sceneries. Kami ni Ojie, natives, ay
hindi excited about planting rice siempre. We boarded the aircon Baliwag bus
as soon as it arrived and had fun observing one photographer who kept
circling the clump of cypress shrubs near the gate of Philrice. He probably
was looking for insects to macro shoot.

At 9 am, they were directing all the boys to the "Pag-aari ng lalawigan ng
Nueva Ecija" bus, which was not airconditioned. Lusot na si Ojie, may seat
na sa aircon bus!

We went to the Central Luzon State University. Ang ganda ng campus! Sa
museum kami nag-stop. Five minutes only, declared Mrs. Huang. They had very
interesting artifacts dun sa museum!
After 15 minutes, we were being called to board the buses, kaso, dumating
ang president of the university. Natural, courtesy call on site. Naubos ang
tindang ice drop (buko, ube, cheese flavors)  nung masuerteng vendor who
happened to be there. Nagpalamig lahat kami habang naghihintay.

The university president led our convoy. Sa dairy farm muna. Napakyaw ng
group ang pastillas de leche at pulvorons doon. At ang lahat ng kumakain na
mga kalabaw ay instant models ng photographers! Sinusuwag ng mga kalabaw
yung cameras of those who come too close!

Hindi kami gaanong excited ni Ojie sa mga kalabaw, siempre. Sa mga kambing
daw ang kasunod. Oops, pinapaitan in the flesh! Nauna na kami ni Ojie doon.
Nabulabog ang mga nagpapahingang farmhands when we said the president was on
his way.

Pabalikin ninyo dito ang mga kambing na nakasuga sa maisan!, ang frantic na
utos ng supervisor nila!

Wow, Marlboro country scene, with hundreds of kambings rushing back to their
pens! Nakakatuwa!

But I was not able to concentrate on the kambings-may mga test tube kambings
doon, saka kambing na imine-mate nila sa sheep.

I talked with the president of the university about his being a taong putik!
He is from Bibiclat, Aliaga, and when he took his Ph. D. in 1977, he
promised that he will be a taong putik in gratitude for finishing the degree.
He intends to write about the ritual of the taong putik. He was born to that
tradition daw.

He was a participant in the previous day's ritual, but he was completely
anonymous. Ipinakita pa niya yung scar niya sa isang foot that could
identify him, kaya kinakapalan daw niya ng lagay ng putik dun sa scar. May
isang photographer daw na nakatutok sa kanya yung camera, kaya wala daw
siyang kakilos-kilos. He was not one of those who showed their faces after
the mass.

I mentioned my unease about us intruding on the ritual by taking pictures.
Kaya nga raw kumapal lalo yung canopy of leaves, dahil anonymous dapat yung
taong putik.

It is very humbling to walk barefoot in the rough road and to dirty oneself
where a carabao has just been. And to ask for alms anonymously.
He said it never fails to rain on June 23 in their barangay. Talagang
binibiyayaan sila ng putik ng Panginoong Diyos.
I thanked him for the taong putik conversation when we left the kambings.

We drove to BFAR (Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources)  next. I've
never seen such huge tilapia before! Dalawang malalaking tilapia, siksikan
na sa isang malaking palanggana. Halos mahimatay ang mga iyon sa  dami ng
kumuha ng pictures bago sila naibalik sa pool nila.

Ang mga tilapia daw, sexless at birth(?). After one week pa lang nagkakaroon ng sex.
Kaya yung mga bagong silang ay ini-inject ng hormone para maging genetically male.
Bakit lalake? Para hindi mag-multiply, at nang controlled ang population ng pond.

Isang fispond personnel ang naging model. Pinalusong dun sa palaisdaan, at
kunyari ay  nagtali ng mga fishpens doon. Ang tagal nakababad nung mama sa
fishpond!  A hat was passed around and the amount collected was given to the
"instant model".

Akala ko pabalik na kami for lunch sa Philrice, aba't tumuloy pa sa Villa
Candida Orchidarium sa San Jose City! Ang gaganda ng orchids! Nalimutan ang
gutom! Halos malanta yung magagandang flowers sa dami ng nag-shot!
Pinakilalaman pang inilipat sa better lighted place yung mga selected
flowers. Yung isang cattleya, pinagkaguluhan talaga!

He, he, he! Matigas na ang rice sa set lunch sa Philrice when we got back at
past 1 pm!
Binalot ko na lang ang rice at fried chicken, at kinain ko na lang nang ubod
bilis yung gulay and pineapple. Ang hirap naman kumain nang nagmamadali!

So  pack up and check out and we were seated in the bus at 1:55 pm.
Siempre, doon uli kami sa aircon bus. Kawawa yung doon nakasakay sa
"Pag-aari ng Nueva Ecija" bus, kasi all the way to Manila pala iyon gagamitin.

Dinaanan ang merienda sa Cabanatuan. Adobo rolls and ham and cheese rolls
from Cakeland (the Pride of Cabanatuan City), and Zesto juice drinks.

Surprise! Dadaan daw sa Gross Ostrich Farm sa San Leonardo.
Wow, 140 ostrich in a farm in the middle of nowhere! We were all kids again
as we coaxed the ostriches(?) to eat, come closer, open their mouths wide,
parade, etc. He, he, he! Tinutuka nila ang cameras ng mga masyadong lumalapit.

One live ostrich costs P40,000. It weighs about 100 kilos. Kaya P4,000 per
kilo kung gustong kumain ng low fat low cholesterol ostrich meat.

Browse the website: http://www.grossostrich.com ,  may mga ostrich recipes pa.
The name of the owner of the farm is Michael Gross, a German married to a
Filipina.

After an hour in tha ostrich farm, we were on our way. Stop! May farmer in a
red shirt and sombrero weeding with a sickle. Na-shock ang farmer. Lumayo.
Pinalapit. Kinunan gng maraming pictures. Aliw na aliw ang driver at
kunduktor ng bus namin.

Stop uli sa Gapan, for shoots of the Divina Pastora Church saka yung mga old
houses in the vicinity of the church. Five minutes only, declared Mrs.
Huang, pero alin ka, after 45 minutes ay siya na lang ang hinihintay.
Ibinili pala kaming lahat ng nilagang mais sa palengke! Ang tatamis!

Stop for dinner sa San Miguel, sa Sevilla's. Sarap ng sinigang na hito!
Nakabili pa ako ng kesong puti saka burong tilapia.

I slept at the bus. When I woke up at almost 10 pm, nasa North expressway pa
lang kami. Na-traffic daw somewhere na may fiesta at may amateur contest
stage, sabi ni Ojie.

Awa ng Diyos, nakarating din sa bahay before midnight. Kumain ng kesong puti
with rice and crackers bago natulog.

It was such a great weekend!

Dear Ana,
What you saw was originally called Prophetang Putik.  It had a unique
religiosity to it with mud substituting for the pure water of St. John the
Baptist.  I went into the fields at daybreak to see the people with panata
preparing for their procession into the town.  They layed their robes in the
mud before putting them on.  What a transformation to see them become people
of the earth and the water -- at least that is how I saw it.  And when they
lighted their candles and stuck them into the bare earth of the church
floor, they had added another element of life, fire.  All that was missing
was the wind.    Which would come with the rain to wash off the mud from
their costumes and their faces -- almost like a purification  and rebaptism
by the elements.

I get worried when the spirituality of a fiesta gets lost to the tourism
aspect.  It is like the gigantes of Angono competing with the grace that
comes from sincere belief in the intercession of San Clemente.... and the
panata of pulling the heavy barge carrying the image of San Clemente around
the Bae Lake.  I love the gigantes, but everything needs to be put into
perspective.  If a people lose their spirituality to commercialism we will
be in even worse trouble than we are now.

Glad you enjoyed your visit to Bibiclat.  I have not been there since the
1980s.

Felice