In Benguet, we say "Mankapi tako adi."
If the sights and sounds of Benguet were to be reduced into a travelogue -- say, a 30-second television plug -- it would showcase a flow of distinct images. Roads winding up the rugged terrain of towering mountains, cloud-swept pine-covered slopes, a city nestled in mountains, entire valleys of vegetable greens, tribespeople celebrating a cañao, farmers toiling in the early morn, hardy miners emerging from tunnels, trucks bursting with leafy greens and passengers, a Dangwa bus teetering on a steep curve, spearate huddles of men and women in traditional costumes of red and black hues, dark brown-red coffee ladled smoking-hot from a vat into cups of all shapes and sizes, a hornbill perched on a limestone crag, cogon-grass huts in faroff hills. Accompanied by the shifting sounds of gongs and drums, of the occasional chant (oooo-aaaiii!), segueing to American country music performed by Igorots, and ending with the sound of rushing rivers, babbling brooks, nightbirds, then crickets.
The Summer 2004 Edition
If it's spring in the temperate zone, it must be "summer" in the Philippines. When the cherry trees begin to bloom in Washington DC, that means tourists start clogging traffic in Session Road, Baguio City. The price of Benguet strawberries is on the up and up (currently at P65/kilo and might reach a peak of P100 during Holy Week). The weather is cool enough to let one wear a jacket in mid-afternoon.
HOT POLITICS. It's down to Samuel Dangwa versus Rocky Molintas for the congressional seat. The tribal lines are drawn. Ronnie Cosalan withdrew his candidacy without endorsing anyone, although news reports have decided his move will only consolidate the Ibaloi vote for his cousin Molintas. Edna Tabanda is apparently the strongest candidate for the governorship. Others interested to become governor are Melchor Borromeo and Robert Tindaan.
I get the impression that Benguet elections still lie on the credible side of the fence. The votes are counted right and armed goons don't run away with ballot boxes. Aside from that, it might not be so different from the national polls. Do the candidates offer new ways of leading the province or do they offer more of the same kind of leadership we've seen? Do you think we have a wide choice of upright, energetic, serve-the-people-not-thyself leaders? Will an Ibaloi vote for a Kanakaney and vice-versa? Honestly.
HOT NEWS. The newsstands are bursting with local papers. I counted more than five Baguio-based newspapers (most but not all of them weekly) but a news report says there are actually eleven, including the venerable Baguio Midland Courier. I am always heartened by the ability of Baguio to produce newspapers and media persons. It is empirical evidence that literacy and affinity for the printed word is tremendous in the highlands.
The covers and some inside photos of Midland, Skyland News, and Cordillera Today are in full color. I do not know of any other Philippine locality experiencing this sort of print media renascence. Nor have I seen a town where there is a newsstand at every curb of the road (Session Road and Magsaysay Avenue, and on opposite sides too). In forsaken places like Ayala and Commonwealth avenues, good lord, you'll break into serious sweat before finding a newsstand on foot.
HOT BOOMTOWN. Baguio's newest major landmark is unquestionably the SM supermall high up in Luneta Hill, former site of the ruined Pines Hotel. Departing from the boxy architecture SM is known for, Henry Sy favored an out-of-the-box experience for Baguio and built concrete terraces overlooking the city. It defines the city now just as much as Burnham Park does. No, that is not a bad thing. That is just doing business in a manner remarkably attuned to the community.
The excitement over the new mall shows that business knows how provide new services to people. The Baguio local government, however, must match this excitement in terms of public service and administration. Instead, it has got itself entangled in messy, depressing scandals over parking fee contracts and casino permits. What I'd like to see are new, revitalized public parks and public spaces. For instance, is the Baguio Botanical Center world-class or is it just the shops of plant vendors clumped together? Is it anything like the government-run gardens of Bogor in the highlands of Java, Indonesia? If seaside Subic is ideal for an aquarium, is the climate of Baguio is suited to a zoo? A real one, with tigers and other big, furry animals, but I know the kind of zoo on your mind and we already have that. Beyond the impressive roads and overpasses, we must have an impressive city. And SM can't go it alone.
Good Friday, 9 April 2004
This edition posted 09 April 2004.
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