On the way back it absolutely bucketed it down! I’ve never seen so much rain! It flowed down the road like a river, and what limited draining they had was totally swamped! Luckily, by our stop, it had finished. We went back to the guys apartment, and I met their roommates. Then we went back to Roberts but he wasn’t in, so we decided to wait, but it started to pour down again, and so we must have waited there for about 1/2 an hour for it to stop!! I made it home on my own!!!
21:38 I’ve just spent the last 90 mins chatting to Pa Ariaty ( mr Haity), he is a very nice chap, and his English is excellent......(he is still a tad weird though!) Tomorrow I will do my washing!! When I meet Rachel in Semerang, I think I might stay on board till BALI, spend some time there, go across to Lombok and then return to Bali to meet the Ocean Pearl ( a ship that is due to dock there...I have friends on there too!) Otherwise I’ll have to spent 3 weeks in Bali before the Ocean Pearl arrives!!
I have noticed that the Indonesians spit alot...in the street, in their gardens, out the window......even the girls!! Yuk!!!
My neck is really sore, I think my head might drop off!! On that note....goodnight!!! Oh I nearly forgot, I was woken up this morning by a large cock. I hope that tomorrow the bird will go and crow somewhere else!! I’ll give it cock a bloody doodle do at 4am!! And then it was the ‘Ramada time’ call!! Sweet dreams!

March 24th 1992

Got up this morning at 7.30, that bloody cockerel woke me up at 4.30 am ..git!!
Did my washing and climbed a very rickety ladder to hang it out to dry on the roof. Made my way into town , on my own!!! Visited the ASIA-AFRIKA building Did a bit of shopping around town, bought some writing paper, though God knows when I’ll get to post it! Spent 6000Rp on lunch - Kentucky Fried Chicken!!!! YUMM!!! Bought some deodorant too!! All that ( 2 pieces of chicken, fries, juice, 3 spring roll and a deodorant ) came to 10000Rp - a shocking $5.00!!! That’s the most I’ve spent on lunch since I’ve been here!!!
Bought a ticket to see Double Impact, had to hang about for one hour before it started, but it was a ruddy good film!! Came out of the theater and yes, in true Bandung style, it was raining!!!!! So I waited in the shopping mall till it abated, then hurried across the square to catch the mini-bus home. I had enquired at the Tourist Office ( more like a shed) as to where to catch the bus I needed to get home, and so waited under the bridge ( it had begun to rain again) for it to come by. I eventually got on one, after chatting to a boy who wanted me to go home with him and see his sister and family!!! Anyway I checked with the driver, yes this was the right bus, and so off we went. A little 1/2 Chinese 1/2 Indonesian chap was next to me, and after about 10 minutes, said that I would have to change buses! We came onto a road that I thought looked familiar, however this little man next to me insisted that I had to get off here and get a #9 bus, so off I got, thinking that this is the right road, but, after all, he does live here right!! So off I go, in the dusk and the rain, my shoes getting soggier by the minute, and find a #9 bus. On I get. Once again I check with the driver and his mate, and yes this was the right bus, So the little man was right after all!! After we had gone round a few corners, the ‘mate’ said that I had to get off!! I protested and said that this isn’t where I live, but to no avail...off I got!!! By now I was thoroughly pissed off. I didn’t know where I was, I was cold,wet,tired and totally fed up. I walked upto a shop and asked them, once again showing them the address. The man serving drew me a map and I realized that I had been on the right bus in the first place, and if it wasn’t for that little shit of a man I would be home by now! So, one of them in the shop was going that way, and so it was another minibus ride to the corner, and then a mad dash across the road, dodging cars and puddles to get in yet another sodding bus, going in the same direction as the first bloody one! I got home rather wet, my feet were soaking, my shirt rather damp, and all I wanted was a nice hot shower - what did I get? A bucket of cold mountain water scooped from a concrete trough thrown over my head!!!
After relating my story to Mr & Mrs Haity, I had some dinner and chatted to Pa Ariaty for a while. At about 9pm, he said that he was hungry, and promptly produced a loaf of bread, peanut butter, margarine and Kraft Single!! No knife - just a spoon! So we had to tear off chunks of bread and spread marg on them with a spoon! He was really excited, like a little boy having an illicit midnight feast! Then he announced that he was still hungry, and jumped up and asked me if I wanted to go for some MIE BASO!! OK I said, so off we went up the road to the Rumah Makan (eating house) So we had that, noodles with meatballs and veg! We then went to a hut by the side of the railway track where we met the man who lowers the gates when a train comes! Apparently there never used to be any gates here, but there was a few accidents and so now they have them. We stayed there for a while, chatting, and then we moved on to get some MATABARK (egg and meat with onion in a thin pastry ‘pancake’) very nice ! But I was kinda full!! We then wandered back.
When I was cleaning my teeth, there was a little frog in the bathroom with me and I don’t think its a pet!!!
Anyway, I am knackered, it’s been a harrowing day.....so goodnight see you in the morning...ZZZzzzzz

I have just written two long letters to mum and dad and michelle-don't know when I'm going to get to post them though!! Did some more washing, my stuff from yesterday smells April fresh, and the helper even ironed it for me!! I wasn't expecting that! I think Haiti will be taking me out this afternoon but I'm not sure. I can get a bus from here to Semerang direct, so I'll miss out Cirebon! Hopefully we can go and book it today!
14.25 had a little doze, washed my shoes and had some lunch. Prepared for me by granny, who is in her Seventies but looks about 100 !!! She stays at home and looks after the two kids. At the moment Mirah is asleep, and I-You is lying on the sofa. Gran carries her around in a sari sling thing. The material is tied over the shoulder and the baby put in the fold at waist height it certainly looks as though it saves on her arms!
Chatting to Pa Ariaty last night, he mentioned that there are no dogs in Java, I hadn't realised to be quite honest but after he mentioned it I realised that I haven't seen any ,apparently according to Muslim beliefs dogs are dirty, and shouldn't be kept. Some of the men also grow one or two of their fingernails long, some would make a woman jealous! Sometimes it's just the little finger or thumb others it's the whole hand, but just one hand-not both. I've also found out that 60 percent of the population of Indonesia live in Jakarta, and at Ramadan, peasants and beggars from all over Java travel to Jakarta to beg on the streets.
The police have a hard job sending them back.

When I go to Bali with Rachel, I might as well spend the time travelling around the island before meeting the Pearl-I don't know why I thought I'd go to Lombok and then come back! So I probably will do Sumbawa after all I've just had another very successful toilet visit!
Pa Ariaty said that there is a night bus to Semerang, arriving about 4 am so if I catch that Friday night, I'll arrive in town to meet Rachael, who docks at 10am on the Saturday. Today is Wednesday, and I've stayed at home, so I don't know what I'll do to occupy myself tomorrow and Friday. Tonight I think we are all going out for a meal, Robert too, as a thankyou to granny and the maid. Incidentally my washing from this morning has been ironed too!!
22.15 We went out for the meal Haiti and the two children, granny, maid and an uncle that turned up and me. We went to a Sundanese restaurant, where you sit on the floor, like the Japanese, except that there is no small low table to put the food on, it goes straight on the mat! You eat in a small, open sided bamboo hut, with a whicker woven roof. On the floor is in large rattan mat, and each hut was built on stilts with a large ornamental pond beneath. The food arrived, Rice wrapped in banana leaves, chicken with chilli, garnished with what I can only describe as mint flavoured watercress, tomato, some small-hard sort -of -like a -potato vegetables, cucumber and a round green vegetable, with a dry texture, tasting like a dry cucumber/marrow! There was also vegetable soup, not like your farmhouse kitchen, thick and creamy, but more like a clear stock with chunky bits of vegetables in it and peanuts!! There was chicken sate with peanut sauce (my favourite) and a fish, which I found out later is called " fish gold " now whether Pa Ariaty means goldfish is anyone's guess but it tasted very nice and I might raid the pond when I get home! When the food arrived I waited for everyone else to start, so I would know what to do! First, they unwrapped the rice, and it came out in a long thick lump, all stuck together. To this you add some sambal (chilli sauce) which was bloody Hot!! And you eat it all with your hands, or rather your right hand, as using the left hand can cause offence, so I had to really concentrated, as being left handed I naturally wanted to use my left hand! After the meal we went to a supermarket, and bought a few bits and bobs and then returned home. When Pa came home he looked a bit pissed off, and I found out later we were supposed to meet him earlier!

After he had eaten, he said he would take me to the bus depot to get a ticket but it was 9pm, and I thought they would be closed, but not saying anything, off we went. The bus depot is just down the road, which is handy, and it was closed, however, I will go down tomorrow morning and get a ticket for the night bus to Semerang. It arrives at about 4 am so I will have to wonder about till dawn, find somewhere for breakfast and then head for the docks! Coming back from the bus depot there was some fantastic lightening displays over the mountains, not forked lightning, but pyrotechnic sheet lightning, and for a few split seconds, it turned night into day! Right thats your lot for today I may venture into town tomorrow and post my letters-nothing else to do! Good night!!

26 March 1992
Good morning! And morning it certainly is 630 am, and off we went to get my ticket! So I'm now booked on the 1900 night bus to Semerang. I walked back and now have a really painful bluster between my big toe and the one next to it. Does that does have a name? There is after all, the little toe, so are the others the interim toes? Makes you wonder doesn't it? It is now 730 and I'm going back to bed, will go into town later and post my letters after the rush hour and before the rain!
14.30 I'm back! And, not one transportation problem not one! My I'm a clever chap eh bibi has just made me some noodles, so I had better eat them! I actually had lunch in town, guess what, yes noodles! I took the bus in, and it dropped me off right outside the Post Office, which was luck rather than my planning! So I express air mailed my letters home and started to walk along the road outside towards the centre of town when up bounded this very excitable young chap who had left school only recently and was applying for a job with Garuda to become an air steward his name was Yoyo, he was very funny and had so much personality and to make things even better he wasn't a Muslim! We was Christian, and Protestant at that! Well, just when you thought the entire population of Bandung prayed to Allah five times a day, up pops a good old God fearing Bible bashing Christian! Good Old JC is back, with vengeance!

He went off to his interview, and I strolled into the square, checked my handy map in my very handy guide book it's as thick as the Bible only a much better read-and it's true! And discovered a shopping street I had yet to explore! So off I went, stopped and bought some postcards, I had seen some others earlier but they were absolute crap!
As I was walking back to the main post office to post my just bought postcards, this little chap started chatting to me, his name was Agus, and he followed me to the post office, where he patiently sat while I wrote 8 postcards!! He then helped me find the right post box, there was a choice of about 6!! Then he took me to a very nice restaurant restaurant, that I wouldn't have found on my own and I had noodles with chicken, and to drink orange juice, coconut slivers and crushed ice. It was heaven. Chatting to Agus, he had an English friend who was 36 and when he showed me his photo he looked very dodgy ,parted hair, bushy moustache, they spent time together in Australia, Sydney around the King's Cross area (He was a hairdresser from Ipswich) so I said cheerio to Agus and made my way to the road where I was to catch my bus from just as it started to rain! Star trek is on TV now, so I'm going to watch it beam me up Scotty!
1700 it was the new generation Star trek, mighty good! Mirah played with me for a while and I've just had an ice cold mandi-my testicles shrank in anticipation of the cold water! They are not stupid! My blister really hurts-so I won't be able to wear my lovely flip flops now boo hoo!
2030 Have just spent the last three hours chatting to Pa Ariaty and looking at photo albums His wedding took up two albums, and was really complicated! I'm beat and going to bed He also wanted to know my route what I would be doing when I got to where I was going, how long I would be spending in each place bloody hell! I started to explain Easter to him and what the relevant days meant that he just said yes, yes ok very quickly and wasn't interested in the Christian festivals at all. Speaking to him I found out that if it is not in the Koran then he doesn't do it. Religion is OK but I think you should keep an open mind and I find that talking about other religions fascinating -their beliefs customs etc, but he was so totally brain washed with Islam that he couldn't even listen to another religion! Talk about there is no God but Allah!

March 27th 1992
Happy Birthday Michelle!
1400 have spent the morning reading up about Bali and Semerang Surabaya looks rather dull! Can't wait to see Rachel again it will be brilliant if I can stay on her ship until Bali, spend the day with her on a beach somewhere and then stay in Bali until the Pearl arrives. Ubud looks very inviting at the moment, not very touristy, lots of jungle and river walks! I don't think I'll be going to Kuta or Sanur! Far too many tourists! I will mandi in a moment, get ready for my night trip I hope we arrive a bit late, like 6am would be handy! Have just watched the incredible hulk on television it was really bad!. Am ready to go, have my bags packed and all that so now it is farwell to Bandung ,no more tree- lined avenues shady boulevards ,torrential down pours, crowing cockerals, very cold baths strange people on the buses, volcanoes, jungles, frogs, mosques and rice for a while .

28 March 1992
0400 Well, I made it! The bus had air conditioning and a toilet but it seemed to lack suspension of any description-a bit bumpy you could say! We were taken to the Oewa- Asia Hotel, given a very nice room, private mandi (Western toilet) 2 beds, closet, table, water, towells, blankets very nice indeed. I will leave about 9 am to go to the port I am getting excited about seeing Rachel again. As I walked up the road to get my bus, Pa Ariaty bought me two cakes, like Madeira cake, a litre of water and some crackers! That little lot soon filled out my day-pack! At the station he said that when I come back to Indonesia he would teach me Bahasa Indonesian, and after that, the religion of Islam-well, steady on their fella, easy does it, I'm not exactly the most religious of men at the moment, and am certainly not thinking of becoming a bloody Muslim, no offence but Strweth!!
I left the hotel at 9, took becak to harbour and then motorbike to terminal. Chatted to what seemed like most of the people there, and at 10am am the Mikhail Solokov came in looking a little bit rusty, poor love! .Waved to Rachel and got on board, no problem!
Jumped on bus to Borobudor with Rachel, and had an interesting drive through the Indonesian countryside, with our guide making little bird noises!

The colossal cosmic mountain is one of humanity's most imposing creations -nothing else like it exists. This is the largest Buddhist temple in the world and the oldest in South East Asia. Built with more than 2,000,000 cubic feet of stone, Borobodur is the biggest ancient monument in the Southern Hemisphere. The construction of the temple stared in 775 and lasted until 842, under the dinasties of the Sanjaya and the Sailendra. During the 10th century, the temple was less and less visited and has being progressively covered by volcanic eruptions and tropical growth.
In 1814 a British colonel discovered the monument. In 1855 Borobodur was cleared and a long process of restoration begun. It took about 100 years to uncover the temple and bring it fully back to life. Finally in 1973 an association of 27 countries ,the government of Indonesia, UNESCO as well as private organizations financed the major and most efficient restoration works. No over archeological rescue af such magnitude has been attempted since the raising of the Egyptian Temple of Abu Simbel in 1966 to protect it from the floodwaters of Aswan Dam. It took 10 years to complete the job. Borobudur This is the world's largest Buddhist monument. Laid out like a pyramidal mandala, it's a cosmology framed and inscribed in stone. Had a great time at the Temple, came back and had dinner-yum(?) Not one bloody grain of rice! I'm not sure if my guts can handle quite so solid food! Spent the entire evening drinking and chatting like you do and finally crashed out 430 am!

29 March 92
Slept in for most of the morning went for lunch and then after that little delight me and Rachel went for a stroll around Surabaya harbour. Showed her the delights of ice campur which she enjoyed immensely (despite the millions of flies everywhere!) and then we came back to the Mikhail Sholokov as it started to rain!! Spent the evening drinking (though not the vast quantity of the previous night) and chatting and them off to bed-Bali tomorrow!

30 March 92
Bali.... I am feeling a bit sad now, as Rachel has gone back to her ship! It was brilliant to see her, we had a great time!! Spent the day at the pool soaking up the Sun and swimming: now I don't know what to do! It s come over a bit cloudy and looks like rain! Have checked into this dream of a place in Candi Dasa. It is like a small Cottage, made out of bamboo, with a double bed, reading desk, fan, bathroom containing shower, Western flushing toilet, yes Western and toilet, a sink and a mirror! The bathroom only has half a roof, i e the shower and loo side has a roof over it, the rest of the room does not! Will spend the next few days getting a serious tan! And all this (with breakfast included!) for 12000 rupia a mere six dollars or four pounds a night-heaven-in fact, it the dogs bollocks!
1900 I wrote a letter to Rachel! Went out to post it and decided to go for a walk, well, I kept going and going and must have walked about six kilometres! It didn't take long to walk out of the tourist zone, and soon I was in the land of the locals! Which to be quite honest I prefer! Quite a way from my losmen there were three very old men, sitting on the front porch of one of their houses. They were all wearing sarongs around the waist and it looked like they were discussing the merits of a large cockeral that one of them was holding. They all had fantastic faces, really wrinkly from endless days in the Sun. As I passed by, I smiled and nodded, and 3 toothless Greens came back! I really wanted to ask them for a photo but I didn't! What a bloody useless photographer I am! Came back from my little jaunt, had a shower and am now going for some food. I sat on a wall overlooking the sea and watched Rachel cruise off to Australia whilst the sunset behind. I had a bit of a lump in my throat as the saying goes! The bulb in this room is 25 Watt so it is very dim! It looks like it has probably been here since the huts were built!
2235. Went out about 7pm, and thought that I would try a restaurant up the road that I saw earlier on. They show 2 movies a night, and the menu looked pretty good! So off I went. Now in Indonesia they don't have any street lighting, so I had to walk in complete darkness, with only the light of the moon to guide my way! Any way, I negotiated the path and made it to the restaurant.
I thought it would be virtually empty, seeing as it was not in the main area, but no, it was packed! I arrived a few minutes into Robin Hood and had a very nice meal Nasi campur, which is fried rice with peanuts, cucumber, tomato, bean sprouts, coconut and chili! That and a large beer saw me through Robin and predator 2. There were 2 TV's and amazing surround sound! All for 5700 rupia a real bargain! I was a tad worried walking home, as it seemed even darker than when I left, but I didn't fall down any holes, and made it home safely! So I'm now sitting on my veranda writing this and drinking some water, whilst the waves gently lap at the shore nearby, glistening in the moonlight, and the constant hum of crickets fill the air, punctuated every now and then by the chirp of a night bird. Paradise.

31.March 1992
1606 I have just returned from the Rama Ocean View bungalow complex, where I have spent the day lounging by their pool I do feel just a little sore on my legs, shoulders, forearms, no I think that's all-no doubt a few more sore bits will develop later! There was a cruise ship in at Padangbai I couldn't tell what one it was, but I think it had Japanese passengers and Russian crew!
Some of the Russians were at the complex aswel, and one of them was doing, well I think it is called Zen Buddhism but it's a sort of energy channeling thing. He started by doing a series of practised moves with his hands, legs and arms, taking short breaths and tensing and relaxing his muscles. He then would surround his volunteer and move-his hands over their body, a couple of inches from the surface, and then sort of like pulling movements above their heads as if he were pulling out their bad energy. It was fascinating to watch and then he did a sort of body scan, and told the guy, a Canadian tourist, where had had operations and where he might have problems later on. He also did something similar to an Indonesian, only he applied pressure on to the guys palm by channelling his own energy to his finger and making the man's palm feel as though it was being touched even though there was no physical contact. After performing these acts, he would shake his hands and rub them together and throw away the energies he collected. I really wanted him to do it to me, but I didn't ask!
I've read about this before but I can't quite remember everything about it. It a sort of spiritual cleansing, and the 'medium ' for want of a better word, draws power from himself and the surroundings. The Russian had on a crucifix too which I thought strange.
Tonight I'm off to Molly's place again Green Card and Predator 2 are tonight's treats! There is a man outside trimming the grass with a pair of shears! Will buy some post cards tomorrow and send them top Mum and Dad and Michelle. I may go for a long walk, to either Tenganan or Amplura don't know yet! But I doubt think I'll be sunbathing!
100 am went to Molly's and had Gado Gado, a vegetable dish with peanut sauce, and whilst there it started to pour down, not just a like shower but the now familiar torrential flood! I was joined at my table by a couple, she was from Holland, and he was Balinese, and they were on a test honeymoon! Anyway, the films ended and it was still pouring down, and they left. I left about 10 minutes after them, and ventured out into the rain. It was pitch black and I could see nothing. I was getting soaked to the skin my shoes were water logged and my jeans were clinging to my Sun burnt legs! On I went, and broke into a run being guided along the road by the frequent flashes of lightning and I caught up with the couple's whom I met earlier. We got chatting and she was in fact half Dutch and half Japanese and they invited me to go with them to a bar called Legend, which was down the road.
So after a walk down the well -lit but stream- like street we arrived and entered the bar looking like drowned rats! . There was live reggae music, and one on the musicians (who was blind) came over and chatted for a while. The couple's names were Lydia and Matt, he was in fact a Muslim, but he drank and smoked, so I don't think he goes to the mosque five times a day no siree! After a beer and a chat we left and I came home, Felling rather damp!
I am now writing this on my bed, overhead the rumble of thunder echoes around, and brief flashes of lightning light up my room. Salamat Malam!

1. April .92

0930 Happy Month! . I doubt any April fools tricks will be played on me! My prophecy of yesterday did come true, I have some new sore bits! My back and my calves/ankles/shins are all a little sore. They don't actually look do bad but they bloody hurt! I will have to go into town and get some sun burn cream. It seems a bit cloudy this morning, quite cool!! The man that does breakfast is going to bring it to my room! Jaffle, which is a toasted sandwich, a plate of Papaya, Pineapple and Banana peices and a glass of tea Yummy!!
1700 Stayed in bed, or rather on it with after sun smothering my sore parts! My back and shins feel really painful!! decided at about 2 pm to go for a walk, as usually in the afternoon it gets cloudy and cooller, however this afternoon was clear and hot! So off I went, long trousers, T-shirt and cap,( so I would not get any more burnt than I am already!) and set off up the road towards Amlaplura. In my book it says there are some fantastic views, so I took my camera with me! I had been walking for maybe half an hour when a Jeep pulled up beside me and asked if I wanted a lift! I was just feeling very hot and sweaty, so I answered yes please, and jumped in. He was on his way to Amlaplura, to fix his wing mirror that someone had knocked off. His name was Gary, he was from Austria and was staying in Candi Dasa with his wife and son. He said that I could ride with him to town and he would bring me back too- marvellous- well, that sold it for me!
We drove past lush green padi fields and wide, almost dry river beds, passed old ladies carrying huge bundles of branches on their heads, some wearing no tops. Dogs were running in the road and children shouted with glee as they chased the rather mangy looking hounds along the road.
We arrived in town, it had one main street with large buildings running down each side or rather it looked like one very long, ornate building divided up into smaller shops, offices, garages etc... Each side was a mirror image (architecturally) and was very neat and organised. We drove around the town for ages asking directions and seemed to be going round in circles! We eventually found the small garage, managed to buy the wing mirror and set off home again. On the way back we stopped at a scenic spot (I took a photograph) and up came a lady carrying her baby on one arm and a bundle of branches on her head.She looked knackerd, and from what I could make out, her baby was sick, something to do with its arm.We gave her some money, I took her picture and then we set off home again. I have just attempted to have a shower, but the water stopped just as I was about to lather up! Ther e has been a few rumbles of thunder so maybe we're in for another storm! I'd planned on going to Molly's tonight, with Silence Of The Lambs and a comedy being tonights double bill!! But if it starts raining.......
23.00 Made it to Molly's just before the rains started!! Ordered a Nasi Goreng, which was really salty, so I mentioned it to the waitress and ordered a Mie Goreng, which was really peppery!! So between the two, I managed a meal!!!!! Saw the movie, and a crap 'comedy' called Another You starring Richard Pryor and Gene Wilder, so Ithought it would have been better than it was. Not sure what I am doing tomorrow, however I will pop this in an envelope and send it home!

Candi Dasa ,Bali
15.32 Had my breakfast at the room again today! Then set off for Tenganan, a small village off of the main road. At the corner of the junction of the Candi Dasa and Tenganan Road, there was a small posse of motorbikes, so I negotiated a price and off we zoomed. We covered the five kilometre road quickly, and soon I was at the village.

Tenganan is a Bali Aga village, a centre of the original Balinese, before the arrival of the Mayapahit. It is a walled village and consists of two rows of identical houses stretching up the gentle slope of the hill. The hill was tierd, and between each tier their was some steps make out of bits of rock that you had to climb sort of cobblestone only not so neat! Along the centre of the wide area between the rows of houses were the public buildings, these are used for meetings or ceremonies and signs forbade anyone not wearing traditional dress from entering!
I made my way up the right hand side of the village and had a look in a couple of the shops-all the usual stuff-Wayang Kulit shadow puppets and Golek masks, with wood-carvings, Batik and Ikat cloth, Anklung instruments, Gamelan gongs, shorts and Tshirts! Needless to say, I didn't buy anything! At the top of the hill, was a school, and in the playground were the children playing. Some of the boys were playing football, some were fighting, others were wandering around in twos and threes some just rolling in the dirt! A gong was sounded and they all ran back into school, then a few minutes later, they all streamed out again, clutching their small bags and making a right commotion!
I took this opportunity to take a rest and have a drink of water, and watch the kids playing. Presantly, a man came along with a beaming smile and asked if I would like to see his basket weaving! So off we went, through a stone arch way and up a fairly steep rock cobblestone path. We sat in the yard in front of his home and he started to show me his baskets. They were very good, very tighly woven, and he set about finishing one that he had already started. The yard was fairly small, there were a number of black, pot bellied pigs amberling around, covered in mud, some rather mangy looking young chickens, a dog idly passing the time asleep on the steps, and a rather nervous cat, that couldn't keep still! After a short period, his brother came out and started to play a small wooden Gamelan ,he apparently plays a full size one in the village when they have assemblies. I stayed a while, listening to the music and watching this man weave, it takes about 3 weeks to finish one the size of a large dinner plate.

After saying goodbye, I wondered back down to the village, and mooched around the various buildings. Even though this is one of the few traditional original Bali Aga villages, there was still a small crop of TV arials and the occasional motorbike to bring it in to modern times!
I took a rest at a small cafe at the entrance to the village. There was a delightful little boy having enormous fun playing with the cigarette remains in the ashtray!! A few more tourists arrived and behind me a very old lady was sitting on the floor tearing up large green leaves into thin strips. She had a cataract on one eye and kept spitting on the ground! A man started to play a bamboo xylephone and the boy started to play in the dirt! I finished my drink and watched some of the villagers carrying large baskets of fruit and water on their heads, down through the village gate-perfecrly balanced!
Outside of the village walls were a few more shops, and a gaggle of guys on motorbikes, all trying to get your attention so that you would go with them back down to the main road. I however, decided to walk back, it was only five kilometres after all, and I was in no hurry.
So off I went. The shops and Rumah Makans soon fizzled out, and the road was bordered either side by thick jungle. Occasionally there would be small dirt tracks leading off into the shady gloom of the forest, but I didn't go down any. A few motorcyclst's pulled up and asked if I needed a ride, I declined and one or two of them looked most put out!
About half way down an old man with beetle-nut stained teeth came out of a gateway carrying a small child. He offered to show me his home and so I followed him along the path to 2 breeze-block buildings surrounding a small yard. The houses were one story with one open side and a few rooms. We sat down in an outside hut, and the man offered me some tea. Off he disappeared, and I spent the time making silly faces at the baby, whose name was Pu Tu-I remembered it as I thought of 'poo to' or 'two poo'! The tea arrived in a glass, as seems to be the way here, and he produced some pink cakes made out of compressed rice. With some bananas too. We sat and drank and ate, when I suddenly heard this high pitched chirping-up above me. I looked and in the rafters of the hut, was a piece of bamboo, holed out to form a cage and inside this bamboo prison was a beetle, about an inch long. The old man picked up a small thin stick and aggravated the black shiny beetle by prodding it. The beetle obviously annoyed, opened its wing cases and made the chirping noise which brought a smile to both the old man's and the babys faces ! A young girl entered the yard with a large bucket of water on her head which must have weighed a ton! She was the boy's mother, and after she had put the water in one of the houses, she took the child from the granny, a toothless, wrinkled very thin lady, and started to breast feed right in front of me.!!!! I didn't bat an eyelid!!!

My Backpacking Journals from Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore

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