The Runker's
Sauna Tour of Japan
11-16 August 1998

I SWORE I'D NEVER GO BACK to Japan again during the month of August. Daytime high temperatures average 32-35 C, and it doesn't get much cooler at night. Why go there when it is so hot, humid and crowded, and for so short a time, just before summer session final exams? It's hard to explain. To understand travel motivated by the concept of giri (obligation), watch A Koldun Klaka (Cold Fever) (Iceland 1995, Dir: Fridrick Thor Fridrickson). In this film, Masatoshi Nagase (Mystery Train) plays a Japanese businessman who forgoes a Hawai'i golf holiday to travel a long way and pay respect to his dead parents -- except he gets to go to Iceland, where it's cool!
(Review 1 | Review 2 | Interview with Director)

Getting There

Earlier this term I spent many hours with a travel agent arranging this trip when I should have been studying. Because of obon, mid-August is one of the busiest times for all forms of transportation in Japan, and we had to try many different combinations of routes and carriers.

AGENT: Your last name?
ME: H-I-R-U-K-I. (I don't bother saying it because I know I'll likely have to spell it anyway)
AGENT: Hiruki? That's a common name in Japan, right?
ME: (Surprised) Uh, no, it isn't actually ...
AGENT: Sure, it must be. I've known other people named Hiruki ... where was that? Oh yes! In university, my prof in my Japanese language course was Hiruki-sensei.
ME: (Now interested) Oh? Which university?

It turns out the person wasn't a long-lost relative, but my mother! This was a good example of erroneous conclusions due to sampling error, just like we learned in my statistics course. :-)

I ended up going through Nagoya on Canadian Airlines. They have started joint flights with Japan Air Lines, so crews are drawn from both staff. I'm sure the main motivation was budgetary for these two financially troubled carriers, but the move might yield other dividends if the CAI flight attendants can learn a thing or two about truly courteous (as opposed to just competent) service from their JAL counterparts.

From Nagoya I rode a full Boeing 767 on a domestic flight to Fukuoka, then went to the harbour where the Taiko Maru, the passenger boat to Fukue leaves from. I boarded two hours early, and even then only managed to secure a spot in a hallway. At least I got to lie down, unlike others who had to sit on the stairs for the overnight trip! Luckily we didn't capsize (I can't stand that Titanic song).

Hatsubon

The first Festival of the Dead after a family member passes away, and the sole reason for this trip.

Food

In Fukue, our suppers were at the restaurant of the hotel where some of my relatives were staying. We enjoyed superb meals of local specialties.

Tokugawa Art Museum

I needed air-conditioned refuge during a half day in Nagoya waiting for my flight to Canada, so I went to see this famous treasure trove of shogun-era artifacts. You can too -- just click on the link!

Major Buys

[Back to TOP]


[ HOME ] [Travel Index] [Japan-related Links]

Page first posted 23 August 1998
Counter