Located northwest of Bend, Oregon lies the second highest, but perhaps most technically challenging alpine climb in the Oregon Cascades. At 10,497 feet in elevation, Mt. Jefferson is surmounted by a four hundred foot rock pinnacle that turns many climbers back from the ultimate summit. The remote location of the Jefferson Wilderness makes for true alpine climbing since many routes to the summit cover ten to fifteen miles or more, gaining as much as 7000 feet in elevation along some routes. Mt. Jefferson is not an up and back in a day climb even if your goal is just to make it to the base of the summit pinnacle.

In general the climbing routes approach from the south, west, or north. The Warm Springs Indian Reservation covers much of the eastern flanks of the mountain which precludes camping or approaches from the east. However, there is still a wide variety of climbing routes that range from moderate to extreme difficulty including glaciers and steep rock. For advanced climbing parties in excellent condition, the ultimate challenge awaits in the form of the 400 foot summit pinnacle with technical rock pitches rated at 5.1 to 5.7. There is a lot of rotten rock on the pinnacle, so the best climbing conditions may exist during late winter or early spring when it is covered in snow and ice. Of course at this time of the year, just getting to the 10,000 foot elevation where the pinnacle begins is something of an expeditionary undertaking in itself. Even in summer high winds and low temperatures can be encountered at any time, so never underestimate the mountain no matter how nice the weather appears at lower elevations.

The Pacific Crest Trail runs along the western flanks of the mountain passing through the Jefferson Wilderness and providing primary access to most climbing approaches. Some camp areas have experienced over use and are subject to access quotas. Check with the US Forest Service for details if you are planning a trip to the area. Highway 22 from Salem offers access to many of the trail heads leading to the northern, western, and southern routes. Availability of water can be affected by late summer conditions, although many small lakes and streams may offer potable water with proper purification. At higher elevations in late season water may be difficult to locate.

From the north popular camp sites include Bays Lake, Scout Lake, Russell Lake and elsewhere in the Jefferson Park area. Over use may limit access to some of these areas. On the southern side of the mountain camps may be available at Pamelia Lake, Shale Lake, Hunts Lake, or Hanks Lake. Again, over use in some of these areas may limit access by the US Forest Service so check in advance when planning your trip.

From the south you basically ascend several gullies east of Shale Lake via a very vague climbers route. You frequently must climb over or traverse around large rock formations and steep sections of rockly ridge line both ascending and descending along various sections of the climb. Cross pumice fields to gain the "Dragon's Back" black rock rib north of Goats Peak, and follow it up to the higher southern ridges. There is a fantastic minature forest of alpine dwarf pines contorted by the wind through this area. As you gain elevation the going can be slow in steep scree and cinder gravel. Stay left where ridges fall off toward the Waldo Glacier. Eventually as you approach 10,000 feet, bear right traversing upward around the steeper rocky ridgeline to arrive at Red Saddle. Many parties consider themselves successful to make it to this location on Jefferson. To climb the pinnacle, climb down west and then north traversing the west face of the stone tower. This is a steep angle traverse with huge exposure and a lot of rock fall! Rope and belay and helmets are recommended, especially if this face is frozen in snow or ice. Rock routes are described in Oregon High - A Climbing Guide.

Logistics:
Mt. Jefferson is a technical climb. There are no trails leading to the summit. Only climbers in excellent physical condition with technical training and complete mountaineering gear should attempt this climb.

Location:
Southeast of Salem, Oregon off Highway 22. Turn offs to trail heads exist at USFS logging Roads 2243, 040, 2246 and elsewhere. Most are not plowed in winter.

Climbing Season:
Mt. Jefferson may best be climbed between May and September. Parties attempting the summit pinnacle should assess conditions due to extreme rock fall hazard.

Maps:
Mt. Jefferson Wilderness
Geo-Graphics
970 NW Muirfield Ct.
Beaverton, OR 97006

References:
Oregon High - A Climbing Guide by Jeff Thomas
Keep Climbing Press
Portland, Oregon

US Forest Service
Detroit Ranger Station
HC 73 Box 320
Mill City, OR 97360
503-854-3366

The Mazamas
909 N.W. 19th Avenue
Portland, OR 97209

Safety:
White out conditions can rapidly produce zero visibility when blowing snow or surface level clouds occur. High winds, extreme wind chill conditions, and rapidly dropping temperatures are common. Be prepared for all weather possibilities.

Virtual Climb:
Mt. Jefferson Virtual Climb