Diamond Peak
April 6, 1997

We headed out for a climb on Diamond Peak at 5:00 a.m. Saturday April 5th. This early in the spring you can never tell what conditions will be like, so I was packing snow shoes and trekking poles, crampons, ice axe, and all the other essential items required for an alpine ascent.

Driving up to Pioneer Gulch we came across several heards of elk that added a special feeling of being out in the wilderness. They scurried away from our approaching vehicle as we came upon them. Soon at the trail head, we geared up and started the climb in the freezing temperatures starting in snow from the first steps we took.

We climbed on and soon put on snow shoes to facilitate climbing in the fresh layers of powder. Moving up through the forest, we came to timberline and the amazing view of the snowy giant above us. Climbing up the right hand ridge framing Pioneer Gulch, we ascended onto steeper slopes which rapidly turned to an ice crusted surface which defied footholds. I put on my crampons in the fierce ice driven wind to gain proper footing. Unfortunately, most our group was not as well prepared, so they struggled on without the benefit of good footing.

Above 8000 feet the air temperature had fallen to 20 degrees, and with a strong wind blowing at thirty miles per hour, the wind chill had dropped to far below zero. Finally the conditions became so icy that the few climbers left with me were unable to safely go higher without danger of a fall from the steep ridge. Although I could have climbed on, I made the proper decision to turn back with the group less than an hour from the summit.

I have reached the summit of Diamond Peak several times, but sometimes when climbing with a team you must make decisions to benefit the majority of people in the group. It was a beautiful day and we experienced the conditions which alpine mountaineering is all about. As with our path through life itself, it is the path itself which is more important than the goal.

Return to Cascadia Stories

Experience Virtual Mountainscapes...

Cascades Tour | Virtual Climbs | Live Cameras | Climb the Web | Top Pics | Cascadia | Yama no Tao | Climb Smart | Home Page

Copyright © 2000 R.A. Halterman - All Rights Reserved