Salmon  with cucumber sauce

• 1 cucumber
• 1/4 tsp. each salt, sugar, and wine vinegar
• 1 c. sour cream (or part yogurt and part sour cream)
• 2-3 tbsps. minced fresh dill or watercress leaves
• 6 salmon fillets 6 to 8 oz. each, poached as directed below

Cut the halves into quarters and the quarters into crosswise pieces 2 inches long.

Finally cut the quarters into matchstick julienne, stack the julienne, and cut into dice.

The sauce:
 
Toss the cucumber in a bowl with the salt, sugar, and vinegar.

Let  stand 5 minutes or so, then fold in the sour cream.

Season carefully to taste, and fold in the dill or watercress.

The fish:

Poach the fish as directed below.

To serve hot:

Remove and drain the fillets; arrange on hot plates or a platter.

Either decorate with sprigs of fresh dill or parsley and pass the sauce separately, or spoon the cucumber sauce decoratively over the fish.

To serve cold:
 
Let the fish remain in its poaching liquid at least 20 minutes, to pick  up flavor.

Remove, drain, and chill.

Serve on a bed of greens, and  decorate with the sauce.

Ahead-of-time note: May be completed hours in advance; cover and refrigerate.
 
Stove-Top Poaching: 

• salt
• wine vinegar
• 6 fish steaks or fillets 6 to 8 oz. each (skin and bones may be removed from your fish either before or after poaching)

A roomy, wide saucepan, chicken fryer, or electric skillet; a  wide-slotted spatula; a clean towel; warm plates or a platter.

Cooking:

Measure 3 inches of water into the pan.

Add 11/2 tsps. of salt and 3  tbsps. wine vinegar for each quart of water, and bring to the boil.

Slide in the fish.

Bring to just below the simmer, and maintain the  water below the simmer throughout the cooking, that is, the water is shivering and almost but not quite bubbling. (If the water actually
boils the fish may break apart.)

Timing:

Two to 3 minutes for sole or trout, 3 to 4 for shark, 8 for salmon or other fillets 1/2-inch thick.

When is it done?

Fish is done when the flesh has turned from translucent to opaque and, rather than feeling squashy to the touch like raw fish, it feels  lightly springy. It should still be juicy.

Fish that is resistant and flaky is overdone.

Too bad! Serving:

One at a time, remove the fillets with the slotted spatula and roll  gently over the clean towel to blot up excess moisture.

To serve simply, sprinkle on a little parsley, decorate with lemon wedges, and  pass melted butter, hollandaise sauce, or the lemon-butter sauce  below separately.

Ahead-of-time note:

If you are not serving at once, remove the pan from heat and the fish may remain in its water 15 minutes or longer.

Lemon-Butter Sauce:

This lightly lemony, deliciously buttery sauce is particularly attractive   with salmon and trout, as well as such elegant, lean fish as sole,  turbot, and John Dory.
 

• grated rind of 1/2 lemon
• 2 tbsps. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/4 c. fish stock or chicken broth
• salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 5 oz. (10 tbsps.) unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch slices
• fresh minced green herbs, such as parsley, dill, and/or chives   (optional)

You should  have almost 3 tbsps.

Note: May be completed in advance to this point.

Finishing the sauce:
 
Shortly before serving, bring the flavor base to a boil over  moderately high heat.

While boiling slowly, start whisking in the  butter piece by piece, adding a new piece as each previous one is  almost absorbed.

Remove from heat as soon as the last piece of  butter is almost incorporated, and whisk in the optional herbs.
 
Correct seasoning and serve at once, since the sauce risks thinning out when you attempt to reheat it.

 Variation:
 
Mix finely chopped scallions, chopped dill, a little lemon juice, and  some good- quality olive oil. Whisk to blend. Proportions can be altered according to taste.
 
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