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However, like the American government, the rating system isn’t perfect but it sure beats the next best thing. The Old Cars Price Guide gives a good run-down of the class structure in abbreviated form but is a bit unclear. The following should provide a better understanding with the points delineated.
Since class 0 cars change hands at prices that have no relation to reality., there is no purpose to their inclusion here other than to say there is something above class 1.
To simply determine what it would take to restore a car to correct class 1 condition would take a non-expert six months to a year of research alone.
A car in class 1 condition will appear as or better than new. It may be a virgin, untouched original car with very low mileage that has remained in an "as-built" condition over the years or it may be a car that has been professionally restored. To hold a class 1 status, a restored car must retain all correct original matching-numbers equipment with all date codes corresponding to the build date of the car. Any replacement parts must be from the original vendor and carry the correct Chrysler Corporation factory markings. #1 cars are seldom, if ever, driven and are considered to be strictly show, or museum pieces. Only a handful of true #1 cars actually exist.
An expert would spend several hours to properly assess the elements required to make a class 1 car and would probably have to take some things apart. Non-obvious criteria would be option mix (some options required or prohibited other options), radio/instrument markings and color and style filters.
At this level, you have to be concerned with what the assembly plant was doing that week and be able to document it.
A car in class 2 condition will often be a low mileage, well preserved original or a restored car. It will be representative of the way the car was built but will show some minor signs of wear and tear. A class 2 car may be an older or less professional restoration, or it may be a car that has survived the ravages of time through either diligent care or very little use. #2 cars are much more common than #1 cars and are usually the receipient of "Best of Show" honors at smaller local shows as well as major national events. Only an experienced judge or a discriminating expert can usually determine the difference between a class 1 and a class 2 car from any distance.
A class 2 car might have a maintenance free battery or even a 459 tar top battery instead of the correct 558. The radio might be a correct year but have chrome push-buttons instead of black ones.
Date codes for added options may be wrong an non-factory wiring harnesses may be present under the dash. An ‘RT’ optioned car may have the stripes improperly painted. Seen on the road, you probably could not tell a class 1 from a class 2 car. Of course, you won’t see a class 1 on the road.
A class 3 car will be in good condition. It will appear mostly as an all original car or as an older restoration that is just starting to show aome signs of wear due to being driven. To the untrained eye a #3 car will appear a very nice car from any angle, and from a relatively short distance. To the expert eye, a class 3 car will fall under the category of "average" condition. A car in #3 condition will usually require a full restoration to bring it up to a class 2 or class 1 level.
A car in class 4 condition is one that, quite frankly shows its age. Rust and corrosion are to be expected and missing original parts are a common occurrence. A car in #4 condition is what is commonly refferred to as a daily driver and will usually show the ravages of being a road warrior, regardless of whether it is regularly driven or not. Most #4 cars are restorable but expect to have to sink more money into the restoration than the actual value of the car when completed.
On the other hand is the Road Runner with the aftermarket fuel line and a Holley, headers, traction bars and turbo mufflers, plus a few decals for good measure. Somewhere along the way the 383 engine with 4 speed was replaced by a 360 and automatic. There is a Dixco tach on the hood and a Grant wheel on the column. He probably spent five grand on accessories and the Imron paint job. It looks okay at the drive-in but it is going to take big bucks to make a showable car out of it, mostly for stuff the kid threw away. Remember, ignorance is curable.
Call the class 5 a rust bucket, a derelict or a basket case - any or all may apply. A #5 car will usually be little more than a parts donor to be used for restoring or repairing a like or similar car in better condition. But expect a #5 car to be missing significant and critical parts and/or pieces. Except in very rare instances where a very rare car is found in this condition, restoration is considered to be out of the question and if undertaken, will require the skills of only the most experienced restorer. More often than not, a Hemi car in #5 condition will be considered as a restorable by most collectors/restorers. Not so for non-Hemi models.
For most of us, our first restoration project is a class 5 and teaches us not to do it again.
As a rule of thumb, the cost of upgrading a car from one class to another is usually twice the price difference between the two classes, and the interclass relationship is exponential. In other words, to go from a class 4 to a class 3 is not too bad cost wise. Going from a class 2 to a class 1 is astronomical. As far as class 0 is concerned, figure what it would cost to manufacturer the car by hand. Then triple it.
Also, there are four axioms about restorations:
No.1; The maximum increase in value after restoration equals one half of the money invested.
No 2; Labor invested is worth zero at selling time.
No 3; Maintenance/repair is also worth zero.
And finally,
axiom No. 4; The only way to make a profit in restoration is to restore other people’s cars.
The article above is a compilation of information from:
Old Cars Price Guide
Year Ones Dodge and Plymouth Catalog
High Performance Mopar 3/99
Last updated on 10/29/1999