cross-section showing how the cans rest

Ceiling shelves are not very different from the ones used for the wall. The only difference is that a thin wooden band is fixed to the lower rim of each shelf, so that the cans will be held horizontally, only resting on their top and bottom edges: in this way over 90% of the body's surface will still be visible from below.

Each row has a specific size which enables cans to fit more or less precisely, and to slide sideways, so that they can be inserted from both ends and shifted into place. Because of the shelves' considerable weight when filled up with cans, it is necessary to build individual panels, each of which will hold 3 to 6 rows of cans. According to the length of the shelves, up to 30 cans may be displayed in each row. More panels can be built, one adjoining the other, so that the final effect will be as if the ceiling was covered with one same structure. Obviously, each row will hold only one size of cans (i.e. all 330 ml cans, or all 350 ml, or all 500 ml, etc.), but you can build different rows for different sizes, either in the same panel or in different panels.

front view of the panel (as seen from below)

all the panel's parts, before being assembled

a number of small wooden planks (the shelves), equals to the number of rows plus one: i.e. for three rows, four planks are needed; the same number of thin wooden bands of the same length, whose width must be about 1 cm. (½ inch) bigger than the planks' rim (see picture for proportions); two side planks, used to close the panels on their sides; tiny hinges, about 2-2.5 cm (1 inch) in size: you will need two of them for each plank; optionally, four small L-shaped iron brackets

Plywood (unexpensive and easy to cut) can be used for building these shelves; dimensions will be as follows:

the planks's dimensions

• THICKNESS: it should be not too small, as the planks could bend, nor too big, as the whole structure would be very heavy; a good average size is 1-1.5 cm (about ½ inch);
  
  
• WIDTH: this depends on whether the panel will be closed on its back or left open (a detail discussed below), but in any case it will range between 5 and 10 cm (2 to 4 inches);
  
  
• LENGTH: it has to match the collector's room: usually this size will be slightly smaller than the ceiling's width.

rear view of the panel (facing the ceiling)

an open panel will be lighter, and quicker to build, but cans tend to get covered with dust on their upper surface (the surface not seen from below); this problem can be solved by simply laying a plastic sheet between the cans and the ceiling. a closed panel will prevent cans from being covered with dust, but it will also be rather heavier (although you can use very thin wood to close the panel on the back). In the case of a closed panel, the shelf's depth must be slightly bigger than the can's diameter (6.5 cm, or 2 ½ inches): an average size can be 9-10 cm (3½-4 inches). In open panels, the shelf depth may be slightly smaller than the can's diameter (but in no case less than 5 cm, or 2 inches).

Then the inner shelves can be added: this must be done very precisely, by using a few cans of the same size so to fix each shelf in the right position. Cans should be free to slide sideways, but with very little slack: if the rows are too tight, the cans will not slide into place, but if they are too loose the cans might fall down.

actual cans are a good reference for sizing each row

fixing the doors to the panel

For a better result, before adding the bands, cut off an 8-10 cm (3-4 inches) piece from each of their ends: you will later use these fragments as small doors. Then glue and nail the long central part on the edge of each shelf and, at last, assemble the small doors by using the tiny hinges, as shown in the picture. They can be simply glued, as they do not have to hold a big weight. When opened, these doors will let in one can at a time from each end of the row. Once the cans are in place, doors must be kept shut with a piece of transparent cellotape. It is also possible to omit the making of doors: in this case, each time a can has to be inserted it is sufficient to slightly flex the band sideways (remember to use thin flexible bands, and not to glue and nail their last 20 cm on each end); but after some time, this technique might cause the bands to remain permanently curved, or even to break, and it is surely a less effective technique than the "doors" system.

two ways of mounting the panel

if the ceiling is strong enough, you can fix (or hang) the panel directly on the ceiling with screws (or hangers); if the ceiling has a friable plaster layer, the previous technique might not be safe enough, and the structure might even fall down; in this case, it is better to hang the panel from the uppermost part of the wall, as shown in the picture, by using iron brackets and hangers screwed or nailed to the panel's sides: from below, it will look as if the structure hangs from the ceiling.