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- Sew one side of the square-shaped crotch gore to the slit of
one leg, lining the corner up with the end of the slit. Remember
to match right sides together. Don't sew all the way to the
corners of the square.
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- Sew the adjacent side of the crotch gore to the other side
of the slit on the same leg. You'll need to twist the fabric
around to get it to work.
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- Sew a third side of the crotch gore to the slit on the
other pantleg. Make sure that the larger parts of the legs
are on adjacent sides.
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- Sew the remaining side of the crotch gore. Then sew the
legs to each other the rest of the way for the center front
and center back seams. (Note: be careful you are sewing the
two fronts together and the two backs together and not just
sewing the front to the back of the same leg.)
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Sew each leg into a tube along the outside edge, stopping about 15
inches from the top. You will need to fold each leg in half
around the other leg to sew.
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Fold in the edges of the back: Measure your waist where the hakama will tie (under your
gut to show how well-fed you are). Divide that number by two
and subtract 5 inches. Call that number W. Fold the sides of
the back in until the width equals W (if the back is already
narrower than W, fold in just enough that the selvedge won't
show).
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Sew across the top of the back pleat to hold it in place while
you work on the front. If you have big flaps of fabric folded
in, you may want to tack them down with a few hand-stitches as
well.
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On the front, fold the edges in first, about as much as you did for the
back and pin in place. Measure
the width of the front pieces after the edges are folded in and
call it F.
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I will give instructions for making 3 pleats per side. Divide F
by 18 and call that number P. Use pins to mark points along the
top of the front pants in increments of P, measuring out from
the center seam. There should be 9 pins on either side of the
center seam.
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With the fabric lying right side up and counting out from the
center, fold the fabric so pin 2 meets the center seam. Next
fold pin 5 in to line up with pin 3. Then fold pin 8 in to line
up with pin 6. Pin pleats in place and repeat on the other side.
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Sew across the top of the front pleats to hold them in place.
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- For each tie, sew the ends into tubes, leaving enough of the
tie unsewn in the middle to attach it to the hakama. Clip
corners, turn
right-side out and press.
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- Sew the front tie to the outside of the front, right sides
together. Fold the tie up and around the raw edges to the
inside, turning the raw edge of the tie under so the fold of the
fabric meets the seam where the front of the tie was sewn.
Hand-stitch the tie in place. Add extra stitches at the corner
where the tie meets the hakama leg because it will get a lot of
stress.
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- Do the same with the back tie as you did with the front..
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