Always red. Wear over a white kosode and tie them very high on the
waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama. The tie connects the
front and back pieces on the left side (with a slight gap between them)
and ties in a bow on the right. If you have enough fabric, the front end
of the tie should wrap all the way around your waist before tying to the
back in a big bow on the right side. You may optionally wear
uchigi and an
Uwagi over top. Adjust leg length so you won't trip over the hakama -
they should just brush the top of the foot.
Always red. Wear over a white kosode. Wear over a white kosode and
tie them very high on the waist. There is only one tie on women's hakama.
The tie connects the front and back pieces on the left side (with a
slight gap between them) and ties in a bow on the right. If you have
enough fabric, the front end of the tie should wrap all the way around
your waist before tying to the back in a big bow on the right side. The
nagabakama will
drag on the ground behind and you'll have to walk on the pants legs.
Hitoe, multiple Uchigi, and Uwagi go over top. Karaginu and Mo are added for
formal situations.
- Attach leg pieces to each long side of an inner leg piece,
matching them up at the bottoms. Repeat for other inner leg
piece.
(NOTE: Try to put selvedges on the outsides of the leg pieces
so you won't have to finish them later.)
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- Place the two U-shapes formed by the leg pieces together, right
sides facing in. Sew them together along the inside of the U. This
will be the crotch seam, so you may want to sew it twice or serge
the edges to prevent it from splitting open. Clip the corners.
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Sew each leg together along the outside edge, stopping about 16
-18 inches from the top (the side opening should come to just
above your knee). You will need to fold each leg in half
around the other leg to sew.
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- Calculate the finished width for the front and back panels
by taking 1/2 your waist measurement and subtracting 2.5
inches (Note: this is the amount of the gap between the
front and back panels - if you wish to have a larger gap,
use a larger number).
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- Pin the front in 6 knife pleats: 3 pleats on either side
of the center seam, all pointing towards the center seam.
Adjust the pleat depths so that the total width matches your
calculation.
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- Sew across all the pleats to hold them. If the outside
edges are raw or ugly, you will also want to turn them to
the inside and stitch them in place.
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- Pin and sew the back into six pleats in the same manner as
the front.
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- Ideally the tie should be long enough to go around your
waist twice with at least 30" at either end to make a
bow. You can piece several lengths of fabric together to
make the total length. If you don't have enough fabric even
with piecing, you can attach the tie so the free ends are
both about the same length and tie the ties directly
together, without wrapping the front tie around.
- If you have enough fabric for the tie that wraps around
twice, measure the total length of the tie and subtract 2 x
(your waist measurement) from that. Divide that number in
half (it should be greater than 30"). Mark that
distance from one end of the tie with a pin.
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- Line the pin on the tie up with the right side of the back
piece. Sew the upper edge of the tie to the back pleats of
the hakama, right sides together.
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- Allow at least 2.5 inches of tie between the back and the
front pieces (the same number as you used to calculate the
finished width of the panels)
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- Wrap the tie around to the front and sew the upper edge of it
to the front pleats, right sides together.
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- Fold the tie up, over the raw edges of the front and back
pleats. Turn under 1/2 inch seam allowance and fold the edge to
the inside so it meets the seamline from sewing the ties on.
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- Handsew the tie to the inside of the hakama to hide the raw
edges. Handsew the two edges together on the section of the tie
between the front and back. Add some extra reinforcing stitches
where the edges of the hakama meet the ties.
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- Handsew the remaining length of the ties in a tube, stopping
about 15 inches from the end. The ends of the ties should be
left flat so they will make wide tails hanging down from the
bow. Turn under the raw edges of the ends on all 3 sides and sew
them down.
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