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CHICAGO NIGHTS |
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Disembarking the train after two
long days travelling across country, I was tired, dishevelled
and irritable. But moods can be deceptive, and quickly changed.
The Central Union station on arrival proved to be one of the
world's great train terminals, both spatially and architecturally.
It's immense ceilings gilded with gold rose high above the marble-clad
floors, every inch awash with people. Commuters passed by like
ants, scurrying in all directions to complete their business,
almost oblivious to each other's presence. The station is also
marvellously efficient beneath its frantic overcoat of chaos.
As the transport hub for the U.S.A, it needs to be. Climbing
the ornately carved stairs out into the heart of the city, one
is immediately taken with the ideal centrality of the station,
unlike many cities where trains terminate miles from anywhere,
leaving passengers reliant on bus schedules and taxicabs. On
the morning of a hot August day the vibrancy of life hit like
a wave on a summer beach. The heat and humidity combined to
create an impression of tropical intensity as yet more people
swarmed by in a blanket of arms and legs. My mood changed instantly,
the tiredness dripping off my back like cool water and I felt
my happiness return as I soaked up the excess energy found in
the air. A short bus journey onward to accommodation, yet a body unwilling to rest due to the adrenaline rushes brought on by the expectation of a whole new city to explore. A quick shower to refresh, then out into the fierce summer sun to explore. First stop, as with many first time travellers alighting in the Windy City, was Sear's Tower, controversially still laying claim to being the world's tallest building. The Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur may find an argument against. The view from ground level along the vertical façade of the tower truly sets the mind racing: How big? How many storeys? How wonderful! Queuing from the plaza to the foyer won the pleasure of an elevator ride up five floors to the back of another queue for tickets. The purchase of a ticket to the Viewing deck afforded the privilege of joining yet another queue, proceeding to the main elevator and up, eventually, to the 103rd floor. The elevators guide humorously remarks she is happy to be our escort for the next 43 seconds as we ascend. The whole experience takes on the surreal experience of Disneyland, queuing for almost an hour to finally be rewarded with a 43 second, rather disappointing, ride. But the real reward was yet to come: the arrival on a 360 degree observation deck from where to view, plan and dissect the city, laid out in a grid far below. Remarkable binoculars bring things closer, and are needed to view the streets in any detail. A good starting tip for any city is climb a tower and get your bearings. It allows the planning of future excursions and viewing of sights from a new perspective. It is also just possible to see into the next state on a clear day! Next is the obligatory trip along the Illinois River. There are several ways to approach this, all dependant on budget considerations. A fully tourist orientated trip will last for several hours of fairly repetitious moments, and will cost around $40. Following the natives supersedes this idea; take a water shuttle service boat for $1.50, follow the same route along the river, and see all the same sights. The commentary may be missing, but a free booklet collected at any information booth will fill in the gaps. The incessant patter of an all-knowing guide is also gladly missing, and instead solace can be taken in the silence as the boat glides slowly along. Reflections glance off the water like lasers, shimmering and ephemeral, mirroring all the man-made wonders. As the birthplace of the modern skyscraper and many leading protagonists in Architecture, Chicago becomes a work of art in the mind's eye. This leads to feelings of awe at the achievements of man, at the ability to overcome materials and create such intricate structures. Alight from the ferry-taxi and leave behind mans achievements in construction for man's recreation of nature. Grant Park is found on the Eastern Lakefront, less than five blocks from the central district. This space, especially in the height of summer, is pure excitement. Festivals of music and dancing, pavilions and open-air markets with a plethora of stalls abound. A wonderful place to spend an afternoon, relaxing and soaking up the atmosphere. A walk amongst the crowds will find many races and hear various languages, all of which adds to the cosmopolitan feel. A multicultural mix with no hostility leads to friendly and exciting hostelry and revelling. The population of Chicago is said to double during the summer months due to the range of activities available, and the terrific weather in which to enjoy them. In the heart of the park lies Buckingham fountain; a wonderful water piece bursting skyward, producing miniature rainbows as it refracts the sun in a million droplets. Looking east from Grant Park awards with a vista across Lake Michigan spattered with sailboats floating gently along in the grasp of the famous prevailing wind. A Marina nestles close to the Park edge, full to bursting with boats of all sizes and descriptions. A turn of 180 degrees then brings a startling contrast to witness; buildings sprout up between the trees like bulbous triffids, bizarre manifestations of growth, so close at hand yet so distant from the mood of the Park. A single glance from south to north takes in the entire colossal skyline. The feelings invoked by a walk in Grant Park set up a dichotomy in mind. Is the vitality and excitement of the urban centre more inviting than the relaxing serenity of nature and the lakeside walk? The people of Chicago are fortunate to have the choice, only five minutes from each other. The cleanliness and order of this big city is very admirable. Although the 3rd biggest city in the U.S.A., it is probably the cleanest and best kept. Any exchanges of words with beggars in the street were polite and restrained, courteous and apologetic. The respect citizens have for their city is unparalleled, and entirely better for it. Getting around is also no problem. For those of a sporting disposition, the hire of roller-blades or bicycles is easy and cheap. Prices are set at $4 and $9 per hour, respectively. There is a wealth of great tracks exclusively for skaters and cyclists to enjoy, stretching far around the city. The inclusion of water fountains at periodic intervals along the path shows the commitment to quality of life. The infrastructure is seemingly complete on all levels, even to the extents of an artificial beach created on the Lakeshore for locals and visitors alike to relax on. The city is geared brilliantly for any activity, no one is forgotten in the overall scheme. Sculpture parks abound, continuing the tradition of artistic endeavour begun by the original architects. Many famous artists have work exhibited on the main colonnades and avenues of the city, brightening up and adding interest to the streets. A pavilion specifically for chess enthusiasts protrudes out into the beachfront. It was here that one dollar was hustled from an unsuspecting writer by a quiet, contemplative, Polish immigrant. The experience though was surely worth the humiliation. Navy Pier is a classic holiday focus, stretching out far into Lake Michigan. Shops are plentiful, and entertainment a surety for all tastes. A free bus carries passengers between the jetty and the city centre streets at regular intervals. On weekends a firework display, organised specifically for visitors, lights up the sky in a wondrous display of colours and lights. Energy is high in the massive crowds; enthusiasm runs wildly through the masses. A great time to sit a wonder at the gregarious nature of man, and revel in the rapture of others. A walk from the pier north along Michigan Avenue will lead to other delights. A night-lit bridge standing proudly over the river, more open-air festivals and singing heard emanate from side streets. Crowds of people still walk the city well after sundown. No threat is felt as in other cities, safety in numbers is surely true. The summer weather remains sticky long into the night, temperatures rarely dropping below 20 degrees C at any time. After dark the emphasis changes from outside to in. And Chicago wouldn't be Chicago without the blues. There seems little to be blue about in the bubble of Chicago life, yet the music was born and lives still in the underground clubs of the windy city. Everyone will have their favourite club or live music venue, but Kingston Mines on Fullerton is surely a classic amongst all others. The venue itself is relatively unimportant, much more so the music and the clientele. The passion heats up after dark, and long into the night, with artists blasting out old favourites and new classics into the wee hours. Music to make a man weep or a bird sing, the blues has everything. Find an intimate club with the help of a local, or stumble through randomly chosen doors until a place feels right to you. Whatever the method, the result will be the same: a night to remember, and the memory of a real Chicago blues experience. All travel is inevitably transitory and fleeting, passing glimpses of real people living back-home lives. The ephemeral nature of the visit leans strongly towards expectance or fear. It always holds strong emotions, is never benign or indifferent to the traveller. As a city of contrasts, experiences and tolerance, Chicago will easily cater to any visitors needs. A feeling of home mixed with an equally strong feeling of newness and adventure, a place to really explode to life in, to realise the real joys of living, and begin an understanding of how we all ought to live. As a passing memory in a mind with others, it glows yet with fondness and light, further than most others. |